Superb Mk.I - Windows not working

[fitzjim]

Posted in another forum in error - so, reposting here:

 

Post I:

 

Hi, Long-time browser, first-time poster. I have been using this forum as a very important resource since getting my Skoda 3 years ago. I have had more than my fair share of problems with this car, mostly with water ingress, but these have all been sorted now. While I could be happier with the car, I still love it. I do about 400 miles/week and it is an absolute dinger in terms of power, comfort and efficiency. There isn't many cars with 190,000mls on the clock that can boast that! But (there's always a but!), I have a new issue that may, or may not, be water-ingress related.I am sincerely hoping not. The windows stopped working 3 nights ago. I can hear the switches in the doors clicking on and off when I use the controls on the driver's door, but they do not operate. I read the manual and they are not protected by fuses, but by automatic circuit breakers. Therefore, rightly or wrongly, I disconnected the battery for a spell, but with no success. I cannot find any evidence of anyone else experiencing this issue, so I'm hoping that someone on this forum can help me. Also, some months back the window in the off-side rear door stopped going down, even though I could hear the motor operating. This is a simple fix, that I haven't got around to doing, but maybe the new issue is a complication of this? Thanks in advance. Jim.

 

Post II:

 

Hello again.

 

I am still having this issue, and am becoming frustrated by it. I can report that there is no water in the passenger side where the CCM is, but there is gallons of water on the driver's side footwell, both front and rear, that I have to drain off every few days. My suspicion is that the water may be coming in at the ECU housing, but could it also be a deteriorated body weld between the car interior and the engine bay?

 

The water ingress is one thing, but I just cannot get any info on the problem with the windows. As stated previously, I can hear the motor in each door making the circuit when I use the switch, but nothing happens. From the limited information that I have gleaned from the web, my understanding is that the current is going to the motors, but the digital signal that is used to tell the windows that they can open is not being sent. So, if I found water in or around the CCM, I know what the issue would be, but that is not the case.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Jim.

 

Post III:

 

Went to a breaker's yard today and swapped out the power windows master switch, but with no success. Guy there told me that it could be a controller under the dash, just above the pedals that is gone. He says that it is about the size of a cigarette packet and black. More searching to do....

 

[jimbof]

You basically need to get it scanned to get a bit more of an idea.

The box he is talking about could be the CAN gateway?  

As I say, a scan might reveal what is / isn't working.

Are you sure all your cabin lights work?

And did you actually check under the carpet or just by touch on the top?

 

You obviously have a problem driver side though; other sources of water on driver side are door carrier seal failure (I had this on mine), bonnet release cable grommet (close to the ECU housing) and sunroof drains which exit into the door jamb and rear wheelarches on each side.

 

I don't know how common weld issues are, but I think it is more likely to be failure of a seal.

 

If you haven't checked your plenum chamber for water you should; if that is full and with the cold approaching you could be looking at total brake failure.

[Stally]

Well I have the same issue myself and I thought mine was the regulator so I replaced this and still no joy, I believe I have pinned mine down to the circuit board connected to the window motor is at fault I have put a current through the motor and the motor worked I'm just struggling to find a drivers side window motor got one sent to me the other day but they sent the passenger side rather than the drivers side.

Like I said I think that's where I have pin pointed my problem to if that doesn't work then I give up lol hope this information has helped at all.

[Hoverurb]

Well I have the same issue myself and I thought mine was the regulator so I replaced this and still no joy, I believe I have pinned mine down to the circuit board connected to the window motor is at fault I have put a current through the motor and the motor worked I'm just struggling to find a drivers side window motor got one sent to me the other day but they sent the passenger side rather than the drivers side.

Like I said I think that's where I have pin pointed my problem to if that doesn't work then I give up lol hope this information has helped at all.

Common VAG fault, last one I saw was in a VW Transporter.

Where does it say the motor was manufactured?

Edited 14 January, 2014 by Hoverurb

[Stally]

Germany!! Problem is I can't find one for the drivers side

[Hoverurb]

Germany!! Problem is I can't find one for the drivers side

Wondered about that :giggle: , I dont think so.

IIRC the one we got for the Transporter was from a Polo, a liitle bit different fitting but easily sorted.

[fitzjim]

I managed to locate and remedy the water ingress problem.

 

It was entering through the ECU housing. So I used all the tips and advice her to find and then fix - so thanks to all of you. For remedial work inside the car, I removed the driver's seat, raised the carpet with 2x1 and used an old towel to scoop as much water as I could through the bung that I removed in the back. I then stuck a de-humidifier into the car for two nights running. I'd say, all-in-all, I took about 3 litres of water out of the carpet and off the floor of the car this way!

 

But, I still haven't found the source of my problems with the windows. The car has failed the NCT (MoT) over this now, which is a shame because mechanically and otherwise the car is very sound. I did get a good piece of advice, and that was simply to run the diagnostics with one door disconnected each time to see if I could isolate the issue to a particular door, or rule out all doors a a result. So, that is the next step. Once I find the time.

[fitzjim]

I have now managed to fix the following fault code:

01336 -  Data Bus for Comfort System

        80-00 -  Single-Wire Operation, but my windows still won't work.

 

I did a bit of reading up on the CCM, and the fundamental idea of having a door controller in each door, and a central module is two-fold. Firstly, the central module allows the use of a data-bus, thus cutting down on the number of pairs in the loom going to the door, and secondly, it reduces time spent on troubleshooting by improving on a single point-of-failure. Therefore, what is then point in isolating the doors in this case as it is only the windows that are not working, there is no issue with the Central Locking, etc. It must be the CCM, or is the Door Controller in the Driver's Door a master-controller? Does anybody know if there is a relay or another controller for the windows somewhere else? I have exhausted my resources on this, and if I have to pay someone to troubleshoot, it just isn't worth it as the car is only worth about €2,000.

[Nackuk]

Having looked at the wiring drawings in the passat haynes manual I would suggest the driver door controller is a master. It is the only one connedted by numerous wires to the actual buttons. The central locking is seperate via the CCM.

 

Either:

The switch for that window is faulty.

The connectors need cleaning on the plug on the switch unt.

The connectors need cleaning on the plug on the drivers door control module.

The wire to that motor is faulty from the control unit.

Earthing point E4 is bad. (each window has its own earthing point) (If the earth was bad though I would expect the controller not to be working at all).

The 1st postive node is corroded.(although I find this hard to believe if the other 3 windows work)

The 2nd psoitvie node is corroded. (although I find this hard to believe if the other 3 windows work)

 

I've never had the problem myself and just my thoughts.

[fitzjim]

Hi nackuk,

 

I swapped out the switch module from the driver's door with no success, so I think that is working fine. I took the card off the door and inspected the door control module and the connector for the switch module, and they appear to be 100%. Incidentally, none of the windows work, but I can hear the switching noise in each door control module when I use any respective switch for each window. Where is Earthing point 4?

 

Thanks,

 

Jim.

[Nackuk]

Right I did not notice none of them functioned.

 

So yeah I would check:

 

Earth point E4.

1st positive wire node point. (The wire goes from the fuse box and splits to each conrtol module)

2nd positive wire node point. (The wire goes from the fuse box and splits to each conrtol module)

 

There are two fuses as well, one for each positive wire above.

 

I would guess the earth point and nodes will be under the carpet somewhere, but I do not know where.

[fitzjim]

If I pick up a CCM, is it possible to just swap out the existing one without fear of blowing something up?

[Nackuk]

I cannot coment on the CCM but would not think it is the issue.

 

I would check the plug that goes into the driver door module is getting 12V on both the positive wires.

Then check the earth wire is earthing.

[Cown]

Just FYI you cannot swap the ECU directly. It has to be configured for your car specifically. I wanted to do the same myself, when i had the car, but AUDI in Germany assured me that it was not possible. 

[fitzjim]

Hi All,

 

An update on my issues with te windows not working:

 

Windows still don't work. Although I can confirm that the car is now watertight and I have also re-terminated all nodes and spliced all oxidised or damaged wires.I am convinced at this stage that the CCM requires replacing. My question is thus: My current CCM has a soft coding value of 00258, if I buy a pre-loved CCM how easy is it to re-code it?

 

Thanks,

 

Jim.

[fitzjim]

Problem solved.

 

There is a fuse box on the right-hand side of the dash when you open the driver's door. Nice and simple, with a little card in there that will tell what each fuse is for. All of these were fine. So, I consulted the power windows wiring map again and threw a multimeter across the relevant wires for the windows. This revealed that there was no power in the Red/White circuit; identified as the Circuit Breaker circuit for the windows. After much searching and swearing, I located the blown fuse for this circuit behind the dash under the steering wheel. 35A fuse replaced, windows working, NCT passed. If you are looking for this fuse, you need to remove that part of the dash under the steering wheel - it just comes off after removing a few screws.

[Kamper408]

My issue is that I have power but none of the switches respond at all, no noises.....nothing, I think the door regulator my be bad. Maybe the circuit board but it looks fine so I am not sure what to look at anymore. And the sunroof still does not work.