DunDunFather

Quick update - all plugs and leads changed along with the coil pack. Put some cleaner in and thrashed it about a bit, everything running great now. Glad the issue was as not as serious as some other people ...

So went to pick the car up, my mechanic proceeded to do a compression test in front of me and to our surprise there was compression in cylinder 3! He said it definitely wasn't doing that yesterday. What a relief, I wasn't ready to get rid of my Rapid yet! He's going to do some more tests and change the leads and coil pack then take it from there.

Hi, hope someone can help me. My Rapid (60k miles) developed the "Cylinder 3 misfire" issue last week - rough idling and I think it's gone into limp mode. Gave it to my (trusted) mechanic mate and he changed the plugs, noticed there was a lot of soot on the 3rd one. It hasn't made a difference. Compression on the third cylinder is 70, it should be around 180-200. He's saying the engine needs stripping down to find the root cause or just get a new engine and put it in. I'm pretty shocked as I was expecting it to be a simple fix but I now have a dilemma of what to do - get it stripped down and hope it's fixable, get a new engine, take it to a dealers, cut my losses and get a new car? Any advise appreciated.

I don't have the same headunit but I've had this bootloop before and the SWL Fix worked for me, my hard drive's music was wiped but everything else was OK. There's more details on this thread.

I got some custom fit covers for my Sport years ago from eBay, they came from Russia from memory. There are some sellers on eBay that do custom fit covers if you search for "Skoda Rapid seat covers" + tailored / custom fit / made to measure they should appear. There was a company called JC Seat Covers that used to do them but I can't seem to find the details anymore.

See THIS LINK in the Guides section where I swapped my Swing for a Columbus. eBay is your best bet for a unit if you go down this route.

There's a few posts on here and in the ICE section - I have some information HERE from when I upgraded mine.

Now sold

I have a guide in the How-To section if it helps: LINK

@lucky_taz I have a set of 17" Ray alloys for sale as I upgraded to 18s if you're interested? LINK

There's a few threads on here where people have discussed swapping the HU. There's also an ICE forum where you may get more help. You have actually posted in the Guides section which is for people who want to share step-by-step instructions on how to do things. You can ask a mod to move it into the main forum? I swapped from Swing to Columbus and put a guide together HERE.

I did the same upgrade to mine - see HERE for a guide. Although it sounds like you should go aftermarket based on your requirements. The main steps should still apply regardless of which one you go for. Also FYI you have posted in the "Rapid Projects" section, you would have got more replies by posting in the main discussion thread HERE.

There's an excellent thread HERE that should answer all your questions.

On Saturday I went to inspect my air filter and noticed a small hose had come loose somewhere. After frantically searching around I found where it should go but it would not stay in. I then did a search on Briskoda to see if I was right and came across this awesome thread! Many thanks @Mintyfresh, this was a lifesaver for me. After inspecting the value I confirmed I have the same issue as @KStep where the long part of the valve has broken off somewhere (probably inside the crank). The grommet itself was fine though. I've not had issues with oil smells in the car so I first thought I broke it there and then but on removing the cover I can see oil stains around the grommet so it must have happened previously but the valve somehow was "in" at least partly. I can now smell oil inside the cabin as I drive - I'll be replacing both the valve and grommet (just for good measure) once the parts arrive from the dealer. The part numbers @Koreenium has listed were correct for me. The value is around £23(!) and the grommet a couple of quid. A quick search on eBay produces lots of much cheaper copies (around £3-5 delivered) but I like to buy OE parts. Thanks again for this guide/thread - much appreciated.

So I first tried the SWL Fix ISO on this forum - burned a CD'R at 10x speed and put it into my headunit. It started to initialise then gave me an SWL error. I then tried again and it did the same thing, then thought it was not working and left it. Got into the car a few hours later and it started working! All my settings were intact, and maps - the only thing that was wrong was my music was wiped from my HDD which is no biggie. Not sure what the SWL Fix does but it worked for me.