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Nerd

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    South Shields

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  • Model
    Mk1 Octavia 4x4 Turbo

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  1. MOrning Campers- hate to revive and old thread but was for the loom for seat movement was it simply plug and play or did you need to add in any fuses and earths? Just going to pop in a Leon Electric leather interior in my mk1 4x4 turbo and want to know what I'm up against before I started throwing toys out of the pram when I fit them
  2. Cheers Snow Muncher, going to try the bushes first on the box then change the oil, gets a bit sticky coming out of reverse sometimes as well. Dog bone is usually a must but I'm gonna get it lifted up at some point this week to have another pry about to try and find this knock, it's not severe, more just annoying
  3. Cheers Fabreza. I was looking at swapping the brakes to VRS or S3's for track days. IF the setup is much the same as the VRS on the front then I'll just get the VRS polybush for the front end and pray it fits. I knew the rear was independant and I'll be going down the route of getting R32/4 motion coilies with adjustable camber arms on the rear. Glad you mentioned the downpipe is different, saves me searching and glad it sin't just me thinking the box feels a touch notchy, re-aligned it twice hoping for it to loosen up as well. I'm pretty used to the 1.8t engines in various guises and in all honesty being dual catted this should see s lightly higher figure on remapping than an AUQ but in all honesty on a stage 1 I'm not overly fussed, once I've upgraded the brakes and stuck a chiller on the front I'll be getting it live mapped Cheers
  4. Long time no posted. The VRS is no more and now have a Turbo 4x4. COuple of questions for any one who's been tinkering with theirs: 1) Brakes- what sizes are they? Was looking for new brakes but couldn't get anything listed specifically for the 4x4 but by the looks of them they seem about the same as a Mk4 Golf GTi 2) Front end setup, is it similar to the VRS? I just need to sort out polybushing the whole front end as I have the most annoying knock from the passenger side and might as well do the whole shebang while I'm at it- anyone spotted a kit? 3) Exhaust- having had a spy I've noticed it's running 2 cats, just wondering if this makes any difference to buying an aftermarket downpipe? 4) Gearbox- Are these notchy as a rule or just my clutch and flywheel dying? Hope someone can help me out on this one. Gotta be said that the 4x4 is damned good to drive and although it's still at the minute it handles great (although a bit rolly poly) and boy does it have some grip and as a result can leave a corner like a damn slingshot lol
  5. These were from an ancient halfords socket set I must've got 20 years ago (if not longer). Annoying as the rears took 5 minutes to do and didn't even need the carrier taking off, just the calipers...bloody things
  6. NOwhere near enough room for a 800mm bar in there. Given up for the day before I lose my temper. Lifting the car off the axel stand it's so wedged in. Quick ring round for a blow torch then try again
  7. No room for decent sized bar- for the lower one yeah but not too much room for the top one. USed a small bar and snapped a socket earlier. Still nothing using a lump hammer bar sore fingers keeping the spanner in place...ffs, it's getting right on my tits now
  8. Calipers are off, it's the carriers that are stuck on
  9. CHeers Mark, aye, done the WD40, knock crap out of them to get it to work in and still not budging a mm. Already bent a hammer (just a small one) and snapped 2 sockets knocking them off, time to go purchase a trusty lump hammer from the shop as the missus appears to have made mine disappear.
  10. Been a bit busy and haven't posted for a while. Just trying to change the discs on the VRS and the carrier bolts seem locked in there. They are standard threads and not counter clocks aren't they? Literally snapped 2 sockets on them so far (Halfords so ok lol). If they're normal threads then I guess it's see if I can nick a butane torch of someone and knock hell out of em. If someone's done it just let me know I'm trying to loosen the right way
  11. If the canister solenoid is bad the noise drives you barmy and makes your engine sound dire at shows. Last 4 cars I've had the canister has been taken off or bypassed- ZERO adverse effects. If you're living in a country with average temps over 25degC I'd think a bit more about leaving it on but I'm in the UK, it's freezing all year round so there isn't a problem. Like everyone else, you just route the feed into your arch and done. However- I've removed n249,119 and SAI and the only engine light I get is from the canister (with resistor in place)- some people will get it, others won't. Handily torque now has an auto scan and clear function so whenever I'm on a longer journey I just have torque running in the background on my phone clearing away little CELs lol.
  12. I ALWAYS say a remap is worth it lol. Pop in a decent panel filter, maybe upgrade your DV, do your normal service and get it mapped. Mine was done by these guys - http://www.absoluteremap.co.uk/ and it's a great map or I wouldn't refer them (plus I know the owner so can get you a bit discount). They're mobile (covering most of Scotland) but they're maps are tried and tested and I'm over the moon with mine on a stage 1 and I'm very difficult to please. IF you get in touch ask for Steve and say Chris Nicholaidis passed your details on and that I promised some discount
  13. I change the vinyl all the time on the cars so it's not as easy as that sadly as silicon will pop through as we apply the vinyl. I'd do it properly if I was going to debadge with it begin pinned but for now I'll just work around it and design something that works with a circle in the middle lol
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