antiprosperous

Hey guys! 160k is nothing lol. I bought my VRS PD170 (BMN) Aug 2014 at 150K ish and its now on over 230K and still goin strong ... and its still got a DPF

... On it!

Its in the turbo actuator. If you look at the turbo you will notice the actuator has a wired plug on the top of it.

Hi, it will more than likely be a slight gap in the window seal. This is fairly common for some reason in these cars. To test this theory take some electricians tape and tape all around the edge of the window in question making sure that you cover ALL of the inner and outer edge of the seal. If it is the seal then the noise will now go away. Remove tape and hit with something to seal ip up that doesn't look quite as ridiculous I cured mine with some uber strong black gutter bonding. It cures fairly quick and sets really hard, so far it has resisted the pressure washer several times and it is still silent and smooth

Extra note: the standard turbo is a GT1749V i think and should make around 24 psi in standard config. A standard remap will increase this to around 26/27 and if you want to go a bit higher the turbo is capable of hitting about 28-30psi. To achieve this you have to wind the boost limiter screw in all the and take lots of length out of the actuator by undoing the nut and turning the bottom end of the rod so it gets shorter. Fairly simple to do, all you need is a tiny allen key (cant remember the size) and a 10mm spanner

Try disconnecting the actuator rod from the turbo. There is a really small circlip that holds it on, once removed you should be able to release it. Try your actuator hose again to see if you can get it to move, if so then your vanes are stuck, if it doesn't move then your actuator is toast. You can also try to move the little lever that the actuator rod was attached to. This should give you more info on what the problem is. If your vanes are sticky then I would recommend the Mr Muscle procedure. Its fairly straight forward PM me if you get stuck

If you have the Ross-Tech hex can 12.12 cable and a laptop you can use vcds to do a forced regen. Open program > Select Control Module > Engine > Coding > input 21295 then hit enter. or something like that, it should say "coding accepted" or again, something like that. If your gona give it a try you need to make sure you have a good long stretch of road where you can get up to speed and stay there for a while. I do it on my town bypass in the evening 60 in 3rd gives it a proper blast lol. Also, make sure you have all electrical consumers on: lights, heaters, heated rear window, heated mirrors etc... Youl need to start it somewhere where you can get right up to speed straight away as sittin in traffic on the way to the run with with it in regen mode will just confuse and even if you get there itl probably not do it right and ul have to try again. Coil light will probably stop once DPF reaches a more normal level but dpf light will stay on as long as it is trying to regen so keep your foot in it, if you can, until all the lights go out. I think thats about the sum of it all And yes, its been a full day of tinkering again. gave up with the dpf in the end with hopes to purchase a new section of flex pipe so i can cut the extrusion from the bottom of the dpf so it can just come straight out without having to be twisted and squeezed into a different shape lol. PM me if you have any other queries EDIT: I found that innnotech dpf doctor seems to work OK, being as its the only one i plucked up courage to try and to be fair i did notice a difference. you still need to regen it once its done though. The difference is, when you regen after dpf doctor you can see the thick plumes of ****e comin out the back so it must be doing something right. it was about 20 off ebay and its a fairly simple job. open up any access to inside the dpf, i yanked out the pre temp sensor, then just squirt the stuff in, make sure you do it in stages as it helps full absorption. once its all gone leave it for about 10 minutes or so then connect everything back up and start her up. let her idle for a while and warm up before heading out to do a regen. Happy days

Hi, just found this after searching for a guide myself. Iv spent all afternoon trying to remove my dpf. ASSUMING YOU HAVEN'T FIGURED IT OUT ALREADY - if so pm me a guide coz it'd be so much easier doing it by instruction rather than spending days ripping bits off and smashing things about willy-nilly till i find the answer lol. Under the car it is attached to the exhaust about half way down the car so u'l have to risk breaking into those old exhaust C clamps that have been there for years hehe, mine broke :( and there is a weird bracket that kinda looks like a coat hanger bolted to the back of the sub frame. After that its just 2 bolts holding the dpf on a little shelf behind the engine below where the egr cooler is or was as of today. At this point it's relatively easy to move but just for some reason cant quite seem to get out. After spending a good hour or so waggling it back and forth I decided it'd be **** loads easier if i removed the OS drive shaft. That's where i'm at right now lol.

Did you get it sorted in the end mate? Mine is exactly the same. Things iv tried include: (no necessarily in this order) Stripped and cleaned the EGR and the ASV to like shiny new - no affect. Replaced intake gaskets - no affect. Replaced vac pipes that looked a little like they may have a slight nic - no affect. Forced DPF regen - no affect. Pipercross air filter - no affect. Blanked off EGR and then unblanked (just to see) - no affect. Timing belt changed - no affect. DPF clean using Innotec DPF doctor - noticeably better performance but still no affect on the smoke and smell problem. New intake manifold - no affect. New differential pressure sensor - no affect. Cleaned turbo - no affect. Also there are no exhaust or boost leeks at all and compression is still good and even across all cylinders. I have also confirmed that the MAF and MAP sensors are reading correctly. The only thing left that i can think of is injectors. Il post an update if i eventually get round to figuring it out. :)

Hi guys, whilst inspecting the intercooler for leaks the other day I noticed there was a tiny pipe (looked like vacuum hose, hence this thread ) coming down from what seemed to be under the battery and it was gushing air. I couldn't really get a good look as to where it was coming from but i determined it was nothing to do with the boost or intake so thought nothing of it and moved on. a few days later I got to wondering what it was and if it is supposed to be there. Car is octavia mk2 vrs pd170. I dont have any warning lights and i cant say iv noticed anything stop working over the 2 years iv had it. Makes me wonder though... Any thoughts? Cheers

Hey guys, made the mistake of paying some random local lad to come and plug something into my octy and upload a new map file. It was really good at first but since then the power has diminished quite a bit. Im not exactly sure if there is anything actually wrong with the engine but its never let me down in any mechanical sense. I dont really know what to check or even how to check what i don't know how to check I have VCDS but a really old cable and it doesn't work with the latest versions so im stuck on 12 and all the guides i keep finding make no sense as the meas blocks are in totally different places i think. The main part of the problem is that im a tad skint and cant really afford to be backwards and forwards to a garage or tuner to see what it needs. If anyone could shed some light on the VCDS situation for me that would be amazing although not sure 100% if this is the right place for this post but will see anyways. Cheers

Hey guys, had my VRS little under a year and all this time it has had the most horrible knocking noise coming from what seems like the suspension as its mostly noticeable over bumpy/rough roads. At first i thought "Drop links" so changed them both. no joy, have been lifting it up every so often since then to try and pinpoint what may be causing it. Had it MOT'd the other week and it passed so it cant be anything too obvious or dangerous but i still want rid of it. So: The console bushes are fine, as are the the front wishbone bushes. The drop links are pretty much new. The tie rod ends are tight as hell, as are the wish bone end ball joints and anti-roll bar bushes. (all tested with a great big bar and lots of muscle) More recently i have looked at the big dog bone bush but after very close inspection it seems to be in good condition and went ahead with the powerflex insert anyways just to see. the noise is as ever load and clunky :( The only thing i can think of is the steering rack. I put the front end on a set of stands and wiggle the wheels from side to side and i can here a loud noise coming from under the engine which is what first lead me to believe it might have been the mount. Just wondering if there was a more thorough way to check the steering rack. I cant really afford to paying a mechanic stupid labor charges just to poke about and tell me it may be all the things iv already ruled out. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Excellent idea. Thnkyou

ah, in that case then i think we may have identified the problem

Hmm, my radiator appears to be quite mashed by stones. the condenser is the bit behind though isnt it? as far as i can tell it seems ok