nimbus

Yeah 750cc inline 4 air-cooled, sadly the brand is gone

Hi, I tried it one day, well after a longer trip, the engine started to "shake"( like it doesn't work on 4 cylinders). I don't know if it's related with E10, but since this happened i only use E5.

This

Hi, If you do it outside, then you should put metal or wooden plates on the support points (where the jacks stands are and the crane). One advises, already begins to remove the driveshaft, but not the cylindrical part that is in the garbox, if you want to avoid some troubles. It's quite easy to get the lower suspension arm away, and you will have more space work. Greetings from Denmark

Yes, but residues are blocked at the bottom. It's also impossible to accessed with a screwdriver, even with a toothpick...

Hello everybody. I need help with the drive shaft sealing ring, which is in the gearbox (the differential). About three weeks ago, I successfully changed my drive shaft (front passenger side). But at the beginning of this week, I was able to see an oil leak. The oil exits between the drive shaft bell and the differential. Haynes strongly recommends changing the seal. (which I did not do ... unfortunately). Now I have removed the drive shaft and the old gasket. The seal stuck so tightly that I could only bring it out in small crumbs. I bought two sealing rings because I thought they corresponded to the original. I notice that the first one is wrapped in metal. The second does not have a hollow surface to pick up the edge (framed in orange on the picture). i buyed those seals : Part number 002301227E is wrapped in metal. Part number 002301227C has a smooth surface and has nearly the same diameter as the edge (framed in orange on the picture). So my question wich is the good one to use ? Part number 002301227C ? Second question: How do I remove the residue from the old seal? Can i really install the new seal like described by Haynes ??? Thanks in advance for your help.

Hi, Is that a driveshaft oil seal ?? Because it doesn't look like this part number : 002301227E (part number 4)=> http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/FEL/year/2000/drive_standart/101/hg_ug/311/subcategory/311025/part_id/2547259/lang/e

Hi, some infos here :

@Papez Same here.

Also while driving, the fan doesn't kicks in, even with a 77C switch. So for the engine, the consuption... it's the same as the original switch. Anyway, it's the best mod i did on the car.

Hi, I want to give my opinion/experience. I got a thermo switch of a skoda 120, it goes on at 77 degrees. The temperature gauge still goes up to the middle mark, so approx. 90 degrees as it should.

Hi, The engine model 165M doesn't exist. It's 135M or 136M. (136M got 68 HP) Anyway, check out this link : http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/ I found the part number 6U0919501B

Thanks for the advise @RicardoM.

Hello everyone, I'm currently changing the driveshaft of the right side. But I’m in trouble to insert the new one in the differential. Haynes says it only need to be push in, but, oh boy, that isn't easy. I wanted to know if it’s possible to use a hammer on the wheel side. Or is there any other tips and tricks? Also is it recommended to use the vibration damper?

Going far north with the Felicia, around 8000 km in three week's