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I had no real reason to change the oil other than just the thought that mineral oil won't last as long as synthetic oil. I believe this new oil should last for a long time. This might be valuable information to anyone planning to change their DSG oil in the DQ200 -speed gearbox. Henri

Oh ok, thanks for the clarification. With this oil change experience, I really think I'll keep driving a lot more than 60k before the next oil change. Henri

Hi, Glad to be of help! =) I'm afraid I didn't quite follow on what you meant with changing the MCU. As far as I'm aware the Mechatronics unit has not been changed on my car, just the mineral oil and the new software. I can't remember the service campaign number off the top of my head. Did they switch to mineral oil at the factory then as well or did they make changes to the gearbox so they could use synthetic oil? Henri

Hi, Yes, this is the DQ200 and it has had it's oil changed to mineral. That was 60 000 km ago and there is no way mineral oil can last much longer than that so I changed it. It shouldn't hurt it anyway. The change process was as easy or easier than engine oil change so I think I'll change the oil in the future too. What surprised me though is the condition of the old oil. I expected to see sludgy and thick, syrupy oil coming out but the oil looked as good as the new oil I poured in. That makes me wonder if I really needed to change the oil after all. I learned a new skill, though... Henri

So, after reading through VW and Audi SSP:s on the 1.2 TSI engine, I gather that the oil can possibly come only from the crankcase/cylinder head breather system. The system has a hose coming from the cylinder head to the compressor side of the turbo. The gases flow whereever there is the smallest pressure, in this case just before the compressor. So the deposits are not burned on because this is the cold side of the turbo. The mess must be oil from the crankcase breather system and I'll check to see if some brake cleaner takes it off.

Here's a close up of the deposits. They seem like copper or brass as well as some scaly dark grey layers. Any ideas? Henri

Hello all, While changing my DSG oil I had the air box and intake hose off and I happened to look into the turbo compressor wheel. I took photos of it, see below. At first I thought the compressor vanes were chipped along the leading edge but they are fine, just really dirty. It seems from the photo that there are a lot of carbon deposits all around the low pressure side. This leads me to think that there might be deposits elsewhere too. This engine (Yeti, 2010, 1.2 TSI, DSG, driven 167 000 km) has given me no other symptoms than slightly worse fuel economy. What should I do? Obviously if it's something that I could do myself I'd be happy to. Thanks, Henri

Yes, the oil level is right in the middle of the dipstick hatching. I will follow how the level changes, but this engine hasn't been burning oil.

Hi and thanks for the replies! The battery is rather new and in good condition, so I don't think that is the problem. I read on the user's manual that the warning the car gives on startup (orange oil can flashes several times and gives the warning "OIL SENSOR...") means that the sensor is bad and should be replaced. To be honest, when I took off the bottom shield to look up the part code (Hella 03C 907 660M 6PR 009 629-05), nothing seemed burned or failed... The failure doesn't seem to be all that critical, my local Skoda dealer was not worried, and said the sensor could be changed at the next oil change. Therefore I'm not too worried about the lubrication system yet. However, I looked up the same fuse (nr. 21) and saw it had tripped. Changed it and saw just in time the green light of the auto-dim mirror come on until I got the magic smoke again. It comes from the vents even with the blower off. I've only noticed the auto-dim mirror to not work. I'm not quite sure how to check the others. Which tail lamp? Telephone? Bluetooth works just fine. Now that I know which fuse trips I need to troubleshoot the wiring. For this I need some advice. Where to start etc.? Do you guys know which fuse is behind the oil sensor?

Hello all! I'm sorry if this has been answered before, but I couldn't find anything that addresses these issues. I have a 2010 1.2 TSI DSG Yeti with auto wipers, auto lights and auto dim mirrors. Last week I was driving to work and all of a sudden I smelled a strong smell of burnt electronics inside the cabin. After leaving work and starting the car I got the "OIL SENSOR WORKSHOP!" -warning with flashing orange oil can light. So the oil sensor has to be changed. I know where and how the sensor is changed, but don't know what part it is exactly. Yesterday I was driving on the motorway in the dark, and I noticed the auto-dim rear view and side mirror wasn't dimming. The small green led won't light up even with the press of the switch on the bottom of the mirror. So my problem (and question) is in two parts: - What is the oil sensor part number? Is it same with all 1.2 TSI engines across all VAG cars? - What could be the connection between the oil sensor and auto-dim and how to go forward on fixing it? Any help appreciated! -Henri

I own a 2010 Yeti with the panoramic sunroof and have mixed feelings about it. 1) It lets in a lot of light and adds a lot to the comfort inside the cabin, I'd go for a sunroof again because of this. 2) Being old-ish, I've had water ingress both in the boot and in driver's footwell due to leaky frame (not gutter hose fittings but the frame itself) and a lot of hassle removing and installing roof liner and all inside trim. So, although I've become a master of Yeti inside roof trim removal and installing, I consider a leaky sunroof too much of a hassle. My Yeti was at the dealership for waterproofing (silicone caulking added all around the sunroof frame to seal joints and holes) and hasn't leaked water yet. Still, the amount of comfort you get... I don't really know. My dad has a sunroof on his Yeti (2013) and it's a charm. Mine is older and prone to more faults. For more care-free motoring, I suggest leave the sunroof off. -Henri

I should have been more clear about the events, I reckon. I went to the dealer with all this evidence, and we didn't find the fault yet. I'm thinking I need to remove the roof lining altogether to get Access to the sunroof drain pipes. Thanks for the link! I haven't read that thread yet, but it seems helpful! Henri

Hello all, I just yesterday noticed the boot floor lining was soaking wet after a heavy rain. I have a sunroof on my 2010 Yeti, and I thought the leak came from there. I quickly ran to the local dealership to blow out the drain pipes both front and rear thinking they must ne the cause (I've read about them clogging up before). The drain pipes were clean and nothing was blown out of them, so that wasn't the issue. I noticed the water coming down from the rear left pillar behind the plastic cover and after removing that I saw the water came in from somewhere behind the roof lining in the boot. I didn't remove the roof lining yet, but there was still water there I'm quite helpless, guys. I must seal this leak before it gets any worse. The footwells both frotn and rear are dry, luckily. Has anyone had any water ingress from the rear/boot pillars? What can I do? It seems the Place is close to where the roof racks bolt in. Thanks, Henri