Psyzygy

Aww Dude! Thrash it... Use the gears (they're there for a reason) 15MPG??? Mine's never below 2000 rpm & I get 30/35MPG round town & recently on a 600 mile round trip (cruising at betwen 70 & 100 MPH) I returned 47MPG. Put a thermostat in it for a start. Definitely. Reason? Your car is running inefficiently without one - wrong temperature ALL the time. Thats a BIG one. Tyre pressures. 30-32 psi. Are your brakes binding? Use engine braking too. Read the road conditions ahead & anticipate when you're going to need to slow down & change down gear(s) accordingly (your engine uses NO fuel at all when on "over-run"). Foot braking wastes fuel. Sounds like you've done everything else to improve efficiency except the thermostat & your driving style. Get to it. (P.S. Thanks DGW & Favorit Ken for info on Valve clearances.)

I'd post this in the tech or maintainance diagnostics forums too At least one member has added a light fade/delay circuit to a Felly.

(Repost) With some exceptions, the OBD II warning lamp will go out if a problem does not recur after 40 drive cycles. A drive cycle means starting a cold engine and driving it long enough to reach operating temperature. The TROUBLE CODES that are required by law on all OBD II systems are "generic" in the sense that all vehicle manufacturers use the same common code list and the same 16-pin diagnostic connector. Thus, a P0302 misfire code on a Nissan means the same thing on a Honda, Toyota or Mercedes-Benz. But each vehicle manufacturer also has the freedom to add their own "enhanced" codes to provide even more detailed information about various faults. Enhanced codes (P1 codes), which are special OEM codes for specific vehicle applications, provide additional information and often cover non-emission related failures that occur outside the engine control system. These include ABS codes, HVAC codes, air bag codes and other body and electrical codes. The second character in an OBD II will be a zero if it is a generic code, or a "1" if it is a dealer enhanced code (specific to that particular vehicle application). The third character in the code identifies the system where the fault occurred. Numbers 1 and 2 are for fuel or air metering problems, 3 is for ignition problems or engine misfire, 4 is for auxiliary emission controls, 5 relates to idle speed control problems, 6 is for computer or output circuit faults, and 7 and 8 relate to transmission problems. TROUBLE CODES For a more detailed explanation of the longer code numbers.

Prodej ojetého automobilu: ©koda Felicia - Detail vozu - Sauto.cz

Nottingham, PM me & we can sort something out

I must make this clear, I'm not selling any parts from this car. I will give them away to anyone who wishes to come fetch them though, if that's alright with Brisky Mods?

Sadly it's a GLXi Combi, not L&K (And if it DID have a skin int., where do you think it'd go first? ) My drivers seat has collapsed anyway, so I'm going to swap the wheels, bumpers, mirrors, seat(s), possibly the clutch as it's only a year old and anything else that looks tasty... It was too dark & damp to see anything else about it so I'll have another look tomorrow (I only stopped by in passing, didn't knock on the door). If it WERE an L&K I'd deffo keep it & repair it (Edit) I've just noticed that the rear bumper won't fit :( (unless I get a hacksaw to it :lol: )

It needs a sill, the steering sorting out, dents, rust etc. repairing. MOT til March. I'd forgotten that the interior might be leather too... Off to have a look at it now :P

:rofl: Wikkid innit?

My criteria for posting are: Am I interested in the thread? Have I something constructive to add? Have I got something funny to say? Has someone else said something funny? Can I get a PW out of it?

I've just been offered a 96 Forman (Possibly L&K) colour coded bumpers, wing mirrors & alloys etc. for £50. Worth it?

It's the second to left of the top row of relays in the fuse box. I've not found a diagram of which one does what in either the Owners Manual or Haynes (that's not to say there isn't one )

Partayyyyyy

There's no cold start sensor as such, though the MAP sensor (Inlet air temp) may need cleaning. It's situated behind the throttle body on the inlet manifold. Remove it carefully, wipe the outside clean if it's dirty (I've never seen one), put it in a sealed plastic bag and squirt some electrical contact cleaner in the bag. Swirl it round a bit and then allow it to dry out completely. Refit, making sure the gasket is in good order.

I DO hope you meant the Google Earth comments and not the dispute ^^^ TBH I think this is the irresistable force (dog barking) vs the immovable object (someone dying) problem. No "winners" & everyone loses unless the humans involved can come to terms with the ultimate outcome of all life, i.e. death. Until your neighbours can accept that they're going to die (and one of them sooner than the rest of them in all probability) then they're not going to accept the life of your little Haggis. Personally (and I'm a crazy person ) I'd buy a hearse to park on my drive... Death & dogs are INEVITABLE!!! HTH