Cepheuz

i hope somebody does the same thing... to theyr testicles

the blower turns and blows air, but in less than 5 seconds the fuse hets hot enough to melt the plastic. any ideas ?

Hi all, first real problem with my fabia. here is 80+ most of the year, and when not, it rains quite a bit (Emily is coming real soon) so we depend on our AC a lot, for comfort and safety. now my Air conditioner blower is out (so no AC) and i checked the fuse, it was burned to a crisp, almost completly glue to the fusebox, i removed it with a small flat head screwdriver and patience, but i put in a new fuse (25 amp) and the thing melted instantaneously after i engaged the Air blower (not the AC) i think it might be the Blower, since previously it started making squeaquing sound, i though it was light on oil so i removed it and sprayed with DW40, it worked for some time then it started squeaking again, but after a week it went away. now i think that the little sleeves that support the rotor might have been damaged and worned out, and the electronic terminals might have touch and gone into short. what do you guys think, could it be that or could it be something else?

1. No, like the trumped replacement from Ibiza (i´ve seen a post here) but i basically just removed the old one and fitted some tubbing in tis place though i didn t cut out the bottom side of the filter box just found some plastic tubing and worked to the shape of the opening and then fitted that to a home made snorkle for the opening. but it does feel a hole lot better, not just on the top side but under load or acceleration. 2. just for the first off, but if it feels old it might do some good, in my case, the car was stranded for 8 month and the previous owner did do oil changes as instructed or put some tipe of additive cus i did seee a huge amount of gunk, the mild flushing dint help much so i put 1/2 a liter of Marvel and ran for 1k then drained, put 1liter of very light oil and 2 liters of flush (the one thats totally transparent) and let it ran for 30min, i was amazed to see the oil come out dark as night. but it did make the engine feel lighter. 3. injectos can be clean with and solvent that can remove varnish and is thin enought to sip into the smaller orifice, bith i dont recomend thinner asi ti will destry rubber. 4. not realy, i´m actualy very tempted to use a fiberglass back box and a lot of people here just put a straight pipe, (but i dont think is my kind of thing) 5. electronic cleaning agent. make sure the contacts are clean as not to produce more ohms or miss contact that would fool the computer. 6. je to be honest, i used son AB degreaser and hosed it down with a garden hose, the first time i took it to a car wash and they used a degreaser with detergent and compressed steam (and to finish they used some silicones spray to make the black look good) i´ll try to upload before and after

remove the injector as i did, you´ll be suprised at the gunk that´s in there

if you use synth oil (trans and engine) run clean injectors and 35psi all arround tyres you can get 7.4 town easy if you keep your eye on the trip computer (i´ve done it.) just dont go over 2k until fully warmed and switch gears @ 1800/ 2600 k dont go over 55 i´ve clocked 7.4 on town and 6.8 in highway (doing constant 55)

this is my list, hope it helps: inlet and exhaust: change filter, stock is suficient, but you might go 3rd party replace air inlet trump, it does make a diference on stock MPi engine use good spark plugs with the correct heat range (very important) and you might use 3/4 electrode type (just make sure gap is .70) clean butterfly and remove MAP, Oil, CAM (both) and give them a good clean. use Marvel Mistery Oil with oil for the recomended amout of time, then use the thinest oil with a flush to clean the engine as much as possible before switching to the permanent oil, get the biggest oil filter (its like 15% bigger but makes a huge diference) remove injectos and clean them with carb cleaner, let them sit as long as posible (check the manifold it might be dirty as hell too and clean that) keep cat, but if clogged try a bigger one, do a mufflerectomy or change to fiber muffler for the backbox (for sound only) ALWAYS USE THE CORRECT COOLANT AND OIL (i live in very hot climate and ive seen a lot of head gaskets being replace for not following those rules) remove and clean all sensor electrical contacts, reset computer and do a tune up (60) check for any type of sound coming out of the engine and fix cause (hissing, winning, etc...) clean the engine (makes it look good) buy stiff front suspencion bushes (give better feel on the stearing and dont brake as often) when you need to replace them change manual transmision oil per manual, but always use recomended oil. adjust rear brake pad when level passes the 2nd click, replace as needed, change light bulbs with led (parking light, cabin light, glove box, rear lights exept blinkers, boot, and licence plate (make a huge visual improvement and it just looks dam good) oil up electric windows and check cables (they tend to brake) replace stock speakers, front 5 1/4¨ rear 4¨ (im a music freak,) stick the computer to trip fuel consumption it will teach you to drive better, dont go over 2k rpms until warmed up (make a huge diference in FE) happy driving

That's exactly the problem, you fill up (normal without the expansion tank) and 100+ km after the needle starts to move, then it moves very fast to empty, and in my case it goes from 1/4 tank to leaving me stranded in less than 40km without reaching the completly empty position (it stud halfway the reserve mark). i adjusted for a more acurate reading but leaving 2lts after the needle reaches completly empty. so i am very tempted to buy a large wire and construct my own float level 1.5 cm longer to get the full range of the tanks capacity and still leave 1lts after completly empty (for emergency and to save the fuel pump) if i fill the expansion tank the needle would start to move after drving for 2 weeks (again, after it started moving it would go to empty lightning fast) and that's not acurate at all

I adjusted the fuel sender lever as previously posted and filled the tank, the needle went to completetly full and after 30km (a gallon give me 37Km) it started moving. now its in the middle of full and 3/4 mark (so 1/8 of a tank out) and the car has been driven 80+Km, so yes, bending the level worked for me, but i am very tempted to extend the level by 1.5cm to get more acurate readings

Hy guys, my car has the same problem, but after 3k it goes, this is the same as me no error code on the computer so i advice something i did and work to my advantage: remove MAP sensor and clean out with electronic cleaning solution (the one with no oil) remove Lambda sensor and clean out (i used white vinegar 100% and let it sit over night shaking it every once in a while and a lot of stuff came out) replace spark plug and gap them correctly (.70) if you get the three electrode type better. clean throttle body butterfly and replace air filter Change fuel filter reset computer (60) with cable after that if you still feel hesitation is time to take out the injectors and give them a very good cleaning and it did help for me to put Marvel Mistery Oil in with the oil and give it a good italian tune up. (drove 180 km @ 140Km/h)

My Car does something similar and i was looking for info on this, (stais full for a long time, then drops to empty very fast) but mine has the added bonus that the needle doesnt reach the totaly empty mark (complete travel of the needle) what i did was this, let the tank get totally empty then filled 9 liters then adjusted the level on the fuel sender to the start of reserve (reserve is supposed to be 7 liters in my manual so i put in 2 more to save the fuel pump and the margin of error) havent filled up yet, í'll post on monday to see how it goes edit. if that doesnt give me the full travel of the fuel gauge i'll remove the lever of the fuel sender and install a slighty longer one (i'm presuming 1.5 cm more should do it, but i'll calculate that when i do it fi i need to)

well, if you do thing just because you can, doen´t that make you spoiled in a way? ; to put it in a Marvel quind of way, with great power, comes great responsability. just don´t think of only yourself even if there is no noticeble penalty, do only what you must, i´ll only say that much, cus this is car talk, and if i start quoting a million thinks like the bible, marks, Iron maiden, the butterfly effect etc... is going to be long an not much of what whe like (our beautifull Skoda´s) edit. i dont mean to sound bad (though after posting and reading it, i felt like i might come off wrong), just please think i´m very concious of the world and the effects (though minuscule) of what we do in others.

if you know wher oil comes from and goes to, and the penalty for it, you DO have justification for doing it at a much wider interval

all in all, having had various cars with AC (a must here in the climate of the Dominican Republic) using AC does not impact F.E. while driving over 1500+ rpm, but it does affect (quite a lot) in idle, my car idles using 0.8L/h(in the computer) w/o AC, with AC is 1.4L/h thats almost double. on acceleration from stand still you still see the diferences, but everything fades after 2000rpm so i´m going to switch it off the compressor on low rpm. see how that works out (and ofcourse fit a stat housing)

By personal opinion, i like to fit all tyre equal, but i always stick to tyres that are found anywhere, but all manufacturer make low end and hi end products(not only tyres but all), buying a low end toyo because of hi end toyo performance or buying michellin because you hear a lot about them its not a good idea IMHO salespersons will be asked to push a perticular product, maybe they got a good deal and are trying to push it and that´s why they recomended those tyres i´m saying this because i used to be a computer salesperson and found myself pushing a specific brand or a specific model per request of managment. bottom line, you always get what you pay for. (so pay for what you have research and need, nothing more, nothing less) i re instate, this si all personal opinion from my point of view as an ex-salesperson. now as far as rubber goes, thech is what give you grip, the compound they use, if diferent brands use the same compound, they´ll grip the same (as far as i know) so you cant expect better grip in the same price range as the other your replacing.