skudman

Certainly normal on mine to make that noise.

PM sent.

ok mate. not a problem. I can do a good deal on pretty much all spares for all models.

my mates 1.8T (not vrs) had similar just before the mot about a month ago. being the tightarses he and I am I took out the lambda wire brushed it, using the drill with attachment, then heated it up till it was glowing red, (blowlamp) then refitted. Its been fine for the last 1000 miles. (lucky) My vrs was doing similar and repeated the process on my Sensor (after cat) and he presto thats now been fine too. Spoke to the mot garage i use and apparently they try the same approach for like minded skin flints!

I learnt to drive in one and passed my test in the same car. ohhh so many years ago.

New old stock.

Yep thats correct. Its the same unit used on skoda estelle 1976 through to end of felicia production. However the felicia starter motors have a higher solonoid current and takes out the switch contacts internally. Delivery would be 3 days. Stock is NOS.

£7.50 posted. They are prone to fail on the felicias due to the starter solonoid wiring

What model?

Is it just the silver switch box your after or whole lock assemby?

I sent a message to admin but never got a reply.

Pity i have lots in stock.

Ive just started up. Providing a similar service. I have now have 3 cz suppliers and several dealerships worth of spares on the shelf. Website as per above. Thanks dave.

Out on a limb here. I would suggested checking the fuel rail for contaminants and possibly replacing the fuel line pressure regulator. (Often overlooked regarding misfires) Clean the throttle body and clean the sudo EGR valve out. I would also make sure there is no muck in the pipework going to and from the N75 Valve. I had a combination of All of the above and gradually I solved all of it. So Far My Rs has done 6.5K without a fault stored.

Question relating to this..... Mate has got the slxi 1.8T engine and his not got the additional valves n249 etc but his car doesn't have traction control either. So that being the case surely all your removing is the ability for the ecu to control traction control properly? Is it just simpler to turn it off?