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Hauptmann

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  1. Hi

    Ive been reading the HID fitting guide that you posted up. Sadly I cant see the photobucket photos. Would you have an alternative link to the images please?

    Im planning on fitting HID's to my Fabia soon & Im sure the guide will be a great help

    Cheers

    Mike

  2. Sorry I don't know. I have one of these in my car and it works great with Samsung Galaxy S, San Francisco, Blackberry - but I don't have access to an iPhone to try it out.
  3. The best 'guide' would be the Skoda ElsaWin manual (discs available on Ebay) - however it would assume a good level of mechanical competence. Do you have a friend or relative who is mechanically-minded and can assist you? The fronts are pretty easy, the back are not too bad, but you do need the piston wind-back tool and the handbrake cable levers do need setting properly at the correct gap.
  4. I think at the end of the day any warranty offered on a used car by a dealer is going to be some sort of insurance-based policy. The Skoda policy (a rebadged CCP policy, provided by GM) is good. An alternative is a company like Warranty Direct. You should be able to get 12 months on one of their premium policies for around £22/month.
  5. When you speak to your insurers you should clarify to them that it is an EU-sourced car to UK spec - a so-called 'parallel import'. To some insurers an 'import' is a grey-import (i.e. a car designed for a non-EU market). There are a lot of Japanese 'grey imports' and these DO cost more to insure becuase parts are often not the same as UK-market cars and so repair costs can be a lot higher. A decent insurance company should not load the premium on an EU-sourced car.
  6. Really, I would relax about it. There are vast numbers of these 'import' cars around and at 3+ years old it is unlikely to impact on future resale value. If it has a MPH speedo then it will be UK spec., I bet Skoda UK don't know what 'special requirements Malta' means - I reckon it is more to do with preparation for shipping. Every country has its own 'special requirements' code with Skoda - its probably just a flag to say where and how the car is to be shipped. Type Approval is now uniform accross the EU, apart from lights an speedos for LHD/RHD and MPH/KPH markets. Much better to have an 'import car' in good condition than a 'UK' car in poorer condition. If the car is a good one then don't worry.
  7. To me that looks like you have a full 'UK Spec' car there. Bear in mind that, depending on date of manufacture, not all 'genuine' UK cars of this vintage came with dual climate, 18" wheels and armrest - so I don't think you have anything to worry about at all. Yours looks fully equipped. I think a lot of car supermarkets formed a relationship with Skoda dealers in Malta and simply ordered UK-spec cars through them. Same production line, same parts and same people making the cars as those that made the cars destined to come to Skoda UK. Remember that ALL cars sold in the EU (Malta is EU of course) have to meet the generic EU Type Approval requirements. The only additional UK requirements for TA relate to lighting and instrumentation (RHD headlights, at least a rear foglight on RHS and MPH speedo). I think you can relax and enjoy the car..
  8. The Citroen EGS ('SensoDrive') was developed by Getrag, a German company.
  9. Indeed they are. Bought this for my son at Christmas. Had it unlocked and debranded. Then he decided he wanted a Samsung Galaxy S, which does very little more than this, but costs about five times as much!!
  10. You don't need leaf springs to get axle tramp. Its caused by the an oscillating 'grip-slip-grip-slip' of the wheel and results in the wheel bouncing due to the stored energy in the spring. My car does this too on a damp road and its made much worse by the traction control. As soon as the wheel starts to slip the TC cuts power and allows it to grip again (with a 'thud'), then as the power comes back in again the wheel starts to slip again and the TC cuts back in - and so the cycle repeats itself. The only solution is to ease back on the throttle
  11. No. Although the parts may be similar (i.e. both will be strut mounts) they will probably not be identical.
  12. Get yourself a new, good quality, battery (e.g. Bosch, Varta). The new battery is easy to fit. You do not need to touch any of the sensors. Just the positive and negative battery terminals. If you can't fit the battery yourself then any local garage should be able to do it for you, it doesn't require a trip to the dealers.
  13. IIRC the specs are as per the review I linked to; i.e. 60GB HDD and 512 RAM. It comes with an XP Pro licence sticker and code on it, although I don't think I have the original XP disc. It was made in 2005. The fault (from new) is that you have to press the power button say 3 times before it will boot up properly. Not sure if this is a HDD fault or a CPU fault. The HDD is a 2.5" type. I reckon postage (standard parcels) is about £5. I'm not sure if I still have the PSU for it (its a standard laptop-type PSU with a barrel connector), so it might come without PSU if I can't find it.
  14. Anything else is 'diminishing returns' i.e. not much improvement for the money spent. You would be far better doing some suspension mods - rear ARB and Whiteline ALK at the front. Relatively inexpensive (under £300 parts) and an increase in driving pleasure, even in day to day driving at modest speeds.
  15. The high level brake light fault could be a wiring defect or a problem with the controller. The central locking fault is very likely a sticking or frozen actuator. Clear it and see if it comes back. The brake pedal problem sounds like air in the brake line. Bleed out the system ASAP!
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