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TsvRS

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    Salisbury Plain

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    FL vRS 2.0 TSI estate

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  1. I think the design weight limit was 70Kg distributed which is like two heavy cases. Anything heavier or pointier and I don't doubt it could fall straight through (but I have hardly ever needed to take mine out).
  2. Did you find somewhere that sells the calipers at a reasonable price? Mine are pretty shot and should really be replaced too.
  3. I am only picking up on this thread because I have been doing the same thing but I did buy the pattern parts at £45 a side. They are easier to fit than pfaffing around with the seized bushes but do I need to replace the bolts ...? Also anyone got the part number for them?
  4. The OEM bushes cost about £6 each and the droplinks can be had pretty cheap too. You can choose OEM bushes that are voided, partially voided or non-voided depending how much less play versus greater comfort you want
  5. I have the same problem with seized bushes but at 100,000 miles. My 4WA is only slightly out but my rear tyres are threepenny bitted and noisy as hell. I suppose it is possible that the seized bushes actually create the poor dynamic geometry that eats the tyres as to be honest my static alignment is almost spot on.
  6. Must be the bathtub curve finally kicking in ...
  7. Mine has always done this. I believe there is an adaptive element to it with input from accelerometers in the car. Basically if the gearbox thinks your are driving in a more assertive/sporty fashion then it will assume you want an earlier change down and later change up in gears. It is not necessarily thinking what we are thinking though - I always use manual when I know I will need a reliable response (running onto roundabouts, fast cornering and especially overtaking). To be fair most of the time it is fine.
  8. I believe the campaign referred to was only in place to save VAG from excessive warranty claims. All affected engines are already outside warranty so Skoda/VAG etc couldn't give a stuff to be honest and when they did care it was only about their own liability. The idea was that if a customer booked a car in with a known defective engine then the campaign would allow the dealer to claim the parts and labour back from VAG (Skoda). To ensure a measured stream of output not all cars were flagged on the system at the same time even if they shared the same engine. Customers were not told but might find an unexpected line-item on their service worksheet if the modification had been applied. It wasn't a recall and it wasn't made public but VAG were explicitly stating that they knew of the engine issue. If you want your money back you have to prove in court that what caused the timing chain to fail was the timing chain issue - that, surprisingly, is not straightforward. First your dealer and then Skoda will allege all sorts of wierd and wonderful possible stories about how the car was used, abused etc all to cast doubt on the obvious explanation i.e. that the engine was simply flawed when it left the factory. Happened to me. Still ****ed about it. Probably shows.
  9. A bit pedantic maybe but because the wheel bolts are (and should be) unlubricated the torque to remove them could be far too high for putting them on.
  10. Any chance you could have selected Sport mode inadvertently? If your usual driving style is taking advantage of the torque and sticking to 2,000 to 3,000 revs in Drive mode then Sport mode might appear as thought it will never change up (it will but at uncomfortably high revs).
  11. Mine does have heated seats - sounds worth checking. Thanks.
  12. Not sure I can contribute much but have a similar problem. After a long time standing doing nothing (first arguing with the dealer and then getting a new engine) my car had what I thought was a battery problem - never really kept charge. New battery improved things but even so after a couple of days the battery was only just starting the car. I measured the current being drawn from the battery with everything off and it was about 3.5 amps which makes sense in as much as that would be quite enough to drain the battery completely. That is a lot of juice though and I would expect to be able to see some evidence of it. I checked all the fuses and relays and it made no difference. Now I have replaced the alternator the drain current is 1.8 amps which is a lot better but in no way a complete fix. I will definitely have a look at drying out the fuse box but am otherwise stumped. Meanwhile I bought another battery which sits fully charged in the passenger seat-well with a set of jump-leads and that has gotten me out of trouble several times - pain in the ass when it is raining though ...
  13. Sounds easy. My battery is still discharging so when I left the car for a few days I thought I would pop the bonnet and leave the battery disconnected whilst I was away. Problem is that having opened the car to pop the bonnet I then cannot lock all the doors once the battery is disconnected. And before you all pipe up - if I close all the doors before disconnecting the battery then the alarm goes off as soon as the battery terminal comes off. I went around this a number of times ... I am guessing the secret must be to disable central locking or disable the bonnet switch but just didn't have time to work it out before I caught my train so when I get back my battery will almost certainly be flat. Let me out of my misery - how should I do it. (should have fixed it by now but have been busy moving house)
  14. I dont think you meant to say Boxster S? I have those and they are a complicated fit to 321, 328 or 330mm discs.
  15. I would generally agree on the jetwash idea but my memory of where the wheel bearing sits in relation to the wheel, top-hat of the disk, and hub assembly would indicate that you would need to be a particularly intrepid jetwash user to get anywhere close to where the bearing sits. Where there is a will there is way though I suppose.
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