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stevenc

Finding my way
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    York

Car Info

  • Model
    Octavia 1.8tsi Elegance Est. DSG
  • Year
    2011

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  1. I had exactly the same problem - droning at motorway speeds. Checked all the usual suspects - wheel bearings, driveshafts, tyres etc but found nothing wrong. I just happened to read somewhere about the condition of front brake disc rotors and it possibly causing the problem. Mine were very rusty so I cleaned off as much of the loose rust of as possible. I then took car out and did some heavy braking from speed (where safe to do so) to further clean up the rotor surface - problem sorted, no more droning.
  2. The paintwork on my 11 year old car is really good except that a few years ago I noticed rust around the number plate lights on the tailgate. The last two summers I have tried to treat the rust and touch the paintwork back up, but however carefully I prepare and paint the rust starts re-appearing again after a few months. I have so far used a couple of different rust treatments - Flag Rust Converter and Kurust. Has anyone managed to succesfully stop the rust in this area and if so what did you use/do? Please don't suggest a new tailgate!
  3. Just out of interest is your power steering on when you are unable to start the car? This was one of the wierd side effects of the intermittent starting problems I had. When I mentioned it on here a while ago I was told that this was impossible - the engine had to be running for the power steering to be on. But it was one of the symptoms I was experiencing.
  4. In the following photo its the one with 100 written on it. This is inside the box to the right of the engine.
  5. I had a similar problem with intermittent starting. I replaced the main relay in ignition circuit and have not had the problem since.
  6. I have several offset ring spanners covering sizes 16 - 24mm that have worked fine for changing shock absorbers/removing top nut. E.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/KS-Tools-920-0216-ULTIMATEplus-spanner/dp/B001NYZSLI/ref=psdc_1939049031_t1_B001NYT102 https://www.amazon.co.uk/KS-Tools-920-0221-ULTIMATEplus-spanner/dp/B001NYT102/ref=sr_1_8
  7. I suffered from intermittent starting for almost a year. Eventually I solved the problem by replacing the relay in the engine compartment with a new one (circled in red on attached image and labelled R1). At the same time I also checked and cleaned the earth strap that goes between the chassis and the engine that's in the battery/airbox area. The terminals on mine did have some corrosion. Since doing this the car has started first go every time.
  8. I have double checked this on my car and it behaves exactly like yours - active when car won't start, inactive when it does. My car is a 2011 1.8TSi with DSG. It would be good to know what mechanism switches the power steering on for a correctly working car.
  9. I have posted elsewhere about problems with my car randomly not starting and I was interested in Guckster's comment about the power steering being active. I have checked my car on the occasions when my car will not start and I have the same behaviour i.e. I have the ignition turned on with the engine not running and the power steering is active.
  10. Petrol 1.8tsi, DSG. 2011 When normally starting the car - turn on ignition – various warning lights appear on dash – certain ones disappear after a short time as it checks its systems – turn key and engine starts. Some of the time this is the behaviour of my car, but now and again I turn on the ignition and two of the warning light never appear, namely the ‘Control system for exhaust’ (an orange symbol of an engine) and the EPC (orange) light. When this happens the car will not start. The starter motor turns but the engine does not fire. I discovered that turning the ignition completely off and then on again several times will eventually get the two warning lights back. The car will now start. Once started it runs and performs normally. I have done a few thing to try and fix the problem. New battery. Cleaned main earthing point to body. Checked fuses and relays. I have scanned ecu for errors with Carista, and there are some (U0100, P1624, P1850) but nothing jumps out as the actual cause of the problem. There must be a bad connection somewhere in the wiring but where to start?
  11. I had this problem exactly as described. I checked the tyres - all were wearing evenly but I tried a front to back and diagonal wheel/tyre rotation - made no difference. I carefully checked the wheel bearings and could find nothing wrong. I checked suspension, engine mounts - anything I could think of that could be loose. In the end I thought I'll just put some more miles on it and see if it gets worse. Several thousand miles later it was neither better nor worse. As a side issue I had noticed that my brake discs were getting quite a build up of rust on their surfaces - probably due to my driving style - I have always tried to anticipate the road ahead and lift off the accelerator in preference to heavy braking at the last minute like a lot of drivers seem to favour. In order to try and counteract the rust build up I (reluctantly) have changed my driving stlye and try and do some heavier, more prolonged braking when I drive now to try and keep the disc surface clean. What I am getting to is that after a while I started to notice that the noise that is the subject of this thread started to get less and eventually it has disappeared. I am not really sure why this could be a solution for the problem - given that disk pads are meant to 'float' above, or be in very light contact with the surface of the disk when they are not braking, but I have done nothing else to the car to sort the problem.
  12. I had a first variable service done three weeks ago and have since covered about 500 miles. I have regularly being looking at the service indicator on Maxidot but it is still showing 'Service in --- miles or --- days' With this being my first service I don't know what to expect - should the indicator be showing more meaningful information by now or does it take a lot longer for the electronics to work out the numbers?
  13. Just visited my local Lidl (York) and found their wonderful winter screenwash on sale. This is the stuff that protects down to -60C and is suitable for the fanjets fitted to the Octavia. It's £5.99 for 5 litres. The guy in there told me it flies off the shelves and is usually only available at this time of year so I bought 6 bottles - should keep our two cars going till October 2012!
  14. Thanks for the information - silver1011 was absolutely correct about the bolts. Mine had the type in the second picture. My car is only 8 months old and the bolts are already rusting nicely and really unsightly (why can't they use stainless steel for fastenings like this?). I was also shocked to realise how vulnerable the number plate was to theft - I had it unscrewed from the car in about 30 secs! Anyway I have new bolts fitted now. I had some of the all plastic type which consist of a bolt and a nut as commonly used on motorcycle number plates that I wanted to use. I removed the rear panel of the tailgate and popped out the plastic blocks that the number plate bolts screw into out. I then just used the all plastic versions with a couple of plastic washers for spacers and applied a bit of threadlock for good measure. Should be no rusting now with the added bonus of it being harder to nick the number plate.
  15. I want to replace the plastic rear number plate bolts on my estate as the dealer has not only mangled the slots in the end of the bolts, but has also used a rusty screwdriver that has stained the bolt head. Am I correct in thinking I have to take the inner tailgate trim off, and if so does anyone have any instructions on how to do it as there don't seem to be any obvious screws to remove. Is it a matter of prising it off and hoping you don't break anything!
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