SP-1

I often wonder this. I've got an Octavia vRS, and 99% of my driving is in urban areas. I've seen people on here who get 400 miles on a tank. If I drive like I'm driving Miss Daisy, I can get 300 miles per tank. I stop to fill up at the first oportunity, when the fuel light is on. If I squeeze all I can into a tank I can get 45 litres. That's brim full. The computer says I average exactly 30mpg. Is that normal??

Looks really good. Nicely hidden behind the bumper, so doesn't look too chav.. lol. (Apologies to all Chavs reading this!) Looked quite straight forward.. Do you notice any difference in performance??

lol... Think you may need to read Bumtishs' post again.... P.S..... mine's silver!!!

As Andrew says, the light comes on when just unlocked, or keys removed from ignition, so it's easy to be confused by it!!

Does the interior light come on when you open the drivers door?? Do you get the warning light on your dashboard?? If so then it's not the microswitch!

All you need to know right here: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/126257-octavia-1-replacing-door-latch-microswitch/page__hl__microswitch Hope it helps.... It's about an hours work!

Thanks mate, will try that tomorrow..

I believe it was re-gassed yes. Maybe I'll run it to quick fit, as they guarantee cooler air con or your money back lol!!

It's a 2000 X reg, manual heat/air con system

Hi all, I usually float around in the Octavia section, but as my dad has a Fabia, and his air con is dead, I thought I'd pop by to ask for some advice. It's been into a "specialist" and he can't find out why it doesn't work!! Having explored my Octavia a bit with VAG COM and discovered just how much the ECU has a say in, I was wondering if it'd be in charge of the air con?? I tried VAG COM on it, and couldn't find any faults, but I'm still learning it so not 100% sure. My dad is a pensioner he's not got a lot to spend, plus it's an 11 year old car. I think the "specialist" checked the obvious, compressor, pipes etc, but if he didn't understand the ECU he may not have checked it. Anybody had experience of this? I'm not going to attempt to fix it, but when my dad takes it to a garage I don't want someone lining their pockets at his expense! Thanks in advance Richard

Get some here!! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HAMMERITE-SMOOTH-FINISH-GREEN-PAINT-750ML-LOW-PRICE-/280624609991?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ&hash=item415687bac7

I bought the draper one.. Complete waste of money. There's not really a prooper fitting side for the rear caliper on my vRS!! Spend the extra, get the propper one!

I had this too on my vRS. The boot latch can be adjusted by popping out the inspection hatch just below the latch bar. (on the car, not the bootlid) I think it's either torx, or star drive. It's a 5 minute job. Too loose and the boot will rattle, and not be water tight. To tight, and the boot will either not latch, or if it does, not close enough to operate the microswitch in the lock, hence the warning light on your dash. When the light is on your dash, and the interior light's not on, it is NOT a door switch!!

I bought the one in Liverpool-Lad's link. It's silver but smooth green hammerite is a perfect match. It's what I painted mine with!! You can get it here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HAMMERITE-SMOOTH-FINISH-GREEN-PAINT-750ML-LOW-PRICE-/380222437306?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ&hash=item588705f7ba

I'd guess the wiring circuit is the same as the saloon. I had trouble with mine. You can either pull the plug off the switch under the boot panel, or adjust the boot latch bar. On the saloon, to adjust the latch bar, there's an inspection panel which just pings off, and there's a couple of either torx or star drive bolts which you can loosen to move the latch bar. It's just a case of finding the right position. Too loose and the boot will rattle, too tight and the latch bar won't activate the switch. It's pretty easy... Good luck