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KBPhoto

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  • Location
    Strontian, Highlands (West Coast )

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  • Model
    Skoda Yeti CR170 Elegance... with sunroof!

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Community Answers

  1. Thanks. I was hoping to avoid having to strip out all the trim as I did with my Yeti. If ‘tow bar prep’ meant the same as the Yeti/Octavia, that would have been ideal.
  2. I’m beginning to think that as well. Thank you. The ‘1D0’ no tow bar is also self explanatory, but where does the extent of the electrics end? Fuseboard? Under passenger seat? NSR wheel arch? If anyone can let me know how to find out (when I’m 700 miles away from the vehicle) that would be very helpful.
  3. I've looked through many of the threads on here about the Roomster, Scout version specifically, electrics for tow bar and can't find anything definitive from that version Roomster. I'm asking about a 2010 Roomster Scout (I don't have it anywhere near me to actually look at) that has the code "1D0 = Without trailer hitch" and has a removable panel in the lower bumper where a tower would go. The owner says there is no sign of a tow bar (which fits with the code). Did all Scouts from that era come with removable panel as standard? Did they all have electrics factory fitted as far as the NSR wheel arch (as on many Skodas)? Or is the tow bar module located under the passenger seat? If not, any suggestions as to why there would be a removable panel (other than the two bar has been removed by a previous owner). Thanks.
  4. Thanks, people. Still can’t get it to resync! The car also doesn’t like the manual opening with the dud key as it only unlocks all doors when the engine is started. Weird! I’ve discovered my car battery is on the way out, but doubt that has anything to do with it. Any ideas on VCDS trickery to try before I sell it (VCDS, not the car)?
  5. Did you resolve this? Mine has done the same, but none of the solutions in the manual or online (or ones I’ve seen on Briskoda) have worked for me. I’ve tried pressing a button, manual unlocking and putting key in ignition. I've tried good key in ignition and the above. I’ve tried problem key in ignition and the above. And various combinations of the above. I have one fully functioning key and one with a new battery that will manually unlock, lock & start the car but won’t do remote un/locking. I have VCDS (although was going to sell it), but recall there not being anything about key reprogramming in there. Have I missed some trick to reprogram after a battery change?
  6. Thanks for the reminder. Next oil change I'll give it a go and see what happens. I'll also try a stiffer tube down the dipstick to see if that helps.
  7. I know - but it's still sad when the comments add nothing to the actual question and use language that is necessary. I've just been to have look and I'm not sure. It looks like it may be leaning towards the rear of the car, but I'm not certain.
  8. FFS I wish people would stick to answering the OP's questions as opposed to belittling someone you have never met! (This negative attitude was one of the reasons why I stopped using this forum a couple of years back!) As my question is about using an extraction pump which, from your comments, you do not do and have no experience of in order to offer a sensible suggestion to address the question, please stop 'fanning around' and wasting your own time. For the record, I can do an oil change from the sump plug, change the filters, prime the pump reset the service interval, etc. On this occasion I was not able to and hoped to get more oil from the extraction pump alone.
  9. It is a plastic pipe that is fairly rigid when cold, but easily becomes softer and more pliable with hot oil in it. However, it does not compress when pushed fairly hard at the bottom end of the dipstick tube.
  10. I get that - just the instructions implied through the order of the instructions and through not stating it clearly that the oil filler cap should be used. Obviously removing the filler cap and dipstick would aid the oil in draining through the sump plug as it would allow air in and not be creating any form a a vacuum.
  11. Did try going in this way, but got about 1 inch of pipe in and had trouble getting it back out. Thank fully it was warm (from the oil) and soft / pliable so did come out without any damage.
  12. That's a great bit of detective work - I wouldn't have known what I was looking for / at. That you. Next oil change I shall try getting the rear of the vehicle up as high as I can. Would the usual home mechanic ramps be high enough do you think?
  13. Do you know what engine code your Yeti is? If it is the same as mine (CEGA) then obviously there is something that we are doing differently.
  14. Thanks for the document. It implies that the suction should be from the oil filler cap as it says to remove this then says to suction off. No reference to the dipstick tube being used...
  15. Is the 'top down' method suitable for a CEGA engine?
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