rossmoffat

Wee update for anybody needing to replace a cable (left or right hand side) in the future. Contrary to the on-line manuals, there is no need to remove the central console, just the rear ashtray/box, vent box and plastic vent pipe. That gives sufficient access to the handbrake cam to fit the cable and adjust its tension.

So I've taken off the wheels and the answer is somewhere between slipped and snapped as one cable (driver side) has snapped so the passenger side can slip. It seems the cables are 'balanced' somewhere so that a broken cable one side allows the unbroken cable the other side to go slack. The unbroken cable is so slack that when the handbrake isn't applied, the nipple can be teased out by hand ... fnar, fnar. Now to hunt down a cable and find out if the job is easily doable at home.

So the handbrake still functions a little when the lever us pulled high up which makes me think that the cable hasn't 'snapped', it just feels as if the cable isn't as tight as it was. Because it went to that state suddenly (when I pulled the lever up), it makes me think that something has slipped rather than broken, like a bicycle cable would through a securing nut if it wasn't tightened enough. What I meant by the warning light is that it comes on at exactly the same point as it ever did, i.e. when the handbrake lever is lifted by about an inch or so but that at that point, the brake isn't even starting to engage.

Apologies if this question has been asked/answered here but the only information I could find regards a similar issue related to a Fabia which was resolved by the simple tightening of a nut on a linkage under the console. So the handbrake cable (MK1 Yeti Elegance) suddenly became slack on parking up a couple of days ago. I'd pulled up the lever as usual, and instead of a couple of inches movement, there was what felt like a sudden 'give' leaving 5-6 inches movement with the brake not being fully drawable as there was/is no more play left on the action before the lever stops against the console. The handbrake light warning comes on right away as if the sensor believes all is OK. I have read threads relating to caliper/cable return springs etc, but I'm pretty sure that the handbrake isn't binding, it felt like the cable had 'slipped' somewhere on the mech. I can't see a way to prise off the centre console if indeed I could actually get a look if I could. Any advice to help me resolve this without taking the car to a service agent would be much appreciated. Cheers Ross

I don't know how long I can keep it up for but FWIW, I've lowered my average speed over the last 500 miles of driving my 170D 4x4 in a deliberate quest for economy. Where the maxidot was indicating a 5,000 mile average of 42.5 mpg, it's now showing over 51 mpg average with about 7.5K miles on the odometer. Most trips are 50-60 miles, mix of motorway & A-road with a few miles stop-start in rush hour holdups. Realistically, that is around 47 mpg after the daft and deliberately misleading 10% error in Skoda's favour.

I came to the 170D 4x4 from a 230HP Megane R26 with LSD. I don't regret for one minute gaining the additional 15 MPG, the confidence that I can get about in the snow and the loss of the bone jarring trials of potholed roads. And 0-60 in 6 seconds or 8 point something seconds is irrelevant for real overtaking.

It's -11 outside now and my washers have been frozen solid since 7.00 PM on Saturday. Since then the temperature has stayed well below freezing, varying between -14C up to a max of -5 at 3.00 PM today. An aerosol can of deicer has been useful for clearing the screen mid journey but there's nothing else for it but to wait for the weekend thaw. I've been looking up 'recipes' for screenwash involving Metylated Spirits etc and will experiment with that ready for when the new cold arrives the back end of next week.

I've driven over 1,000 very snowy Scottish miles over the last 8 days and this being my first 4x4, I didn't really know what to expect. Positives - Mine has been brilliant (again on standard Dunlops). Its climbing ability on snow and ice is gobsmacking, I can park it anywhere in deep, rutted and slushy snow and it will drive away as if it was on tarmac. The hill hold for descents is a little miracle and really is very useful on steep, snowy roads and tracks. Negatives - The braking and steering on snow with the Dunlops is its Achilles heel. The confidence inspired by all the clever traction related, 4x4 & off-road button stuff can lull you into a false sense of security. Finally a word of warning - If you have just used the 'off road' system to help drive up a steep, snowy farm track, don't apply the handbrake & switch off the engine before you get out to talk to someone but leave the engine switched on. Watching your Yeti slide backwards while your quick thinking pal pushes it sideways on the ice into a hedgerow is very embarassing.

I've just bought a single pair of these as I'm currently negotiating with lease company for winter tyres. They cost just over £60 for the pair inc. delivery ... http://www.autow.co.uk/snow_chains/rud_soft_spike.html They seem like a quality bit of kit and have the speed fitting benefits of socks but with an additional wire weave for grip on ice and to prolong longevity for occasional tarmac use (tested to over 120 KM on tarmac). http://www.rud.com/en/unternehmen/aktuelles/presse/schneeketten1/hightech_textil_stahl.html Question. I'm quite used to driving on snow anyway but I've never had 4WD before so ignoring any owner's handbook advice, does anyone have views on whether these are best fitted to rear wheels or front wheels. Personally I'd prefer the rear wheel approach and accept the compromise on steering control versus the risk of 180'ing if fitted on the front. Will the HALDEX system do odder things if they're fitted to the rear though ?

With a smaller radius / circumference, your car's computer is counting more revolutions of your wheels for every gallon of diesel used hence the false increased fuel efficiency figures.

The Megane R26 my Yeti replaced had an LSD on the front and produced an entirely different feel under hard acceleration, letting 310Nm torque and 230 BHP be used without a single grumble or any understeer, with the driven wheels really pulling the car around tight bends. IMO, the Yeti feels just like a conventional front wheel drive car when pushed around corners on dry roads and that limitation has taken some getting used to again.

Still building confidence at the moment to be honest & as a lease car, snow tyres not an option yet. In this photo taken on the journey up this morning about 15 miles north of home, I switched into the snowy lanes a few times, something that I wouldn't even have considered in the Megane R26 that the Yeti replaced. I did deliberately drive all 4 wheels into deep mud yesterday when I picked up someone from paintball down in Annan but no idea when or if the 4WD has engaged. Car did get very muddy though.

Skied at Cairngorm today. Coaxed average 52.7 mpg over the 170 mile journey back. Not bad for a barely run in 7 day old 4WD car with just 1,200 miles on the clock. And here's the Yeti in the car park at 11.00 am this morning.

Thanks. It's actually the solid 'Pacific' blue, not the metallic one. Here's another photo taken about an hour ago but not looking quite so vivid blue without the flash.

The picture's bad I know but the car is shiny under the snow as it's only 3 days old. Anyhow, what with the blizzard blowing me sideways, it was all I could do to get out of the car and snap this one. Does this count as the first Yeti in snow picture for winter 2010/2011 ? Yeti near Moffat 1.00 am November 8th 2010 ...