muddyboots

Further update. Previously we'd had an issue with a leaking adblue injector, which resulted in a large white buildup of crystallised adblue in the area. The injector was replaced, and all the visible residue removed - but it seems there was quite an unseen buildup inside the adjacent cambelt cover. I'm suspecting a chunk of this fell off at some point and caused the belt to jump. All cleaned now, new cambelt/water pump, fully serviced - and it's all back to how it should be

Main dealer did Haldex previously, good for a while yet.

Just following this up, as the cause was discovered yesterday. The cambelt had jumped - apparently the cam was 1 tooth out from the crank, and the HPFP 3 teeth out (so I'm told). A quick trial with the cam back in time and it was much quieter. Garage are now fitting new cambelt/tensioner/water pump etc. FSH with Skoda from new (but now at an independent specialist). Cambelt was done previously by Skoda, maybe 3-4 years ago now.

Hi all Long time no post. We have a late 2015/65 Mk3 Superb 150 TDI 4x4. Now on circa 50k miles. Late last year the engine suddenly got noticeably noisier than usual - a very "tappety" / "ticky" sound, very obvious - you can hear it as the car drives down the road. It varies directly with engine speed; it's there from cold but does seem to get a little louder when the engine is warm. Car is driving fine - no change in performance or economy. No oil loss, mayonnaise, coolant loss. Just the noise. It's in the garage at the moment for some diagnosis, after a listen with a stethoscope they say the noise is roughly from the alternator / fuel pump area. I wondered if anyone else had this issue, and if so, what was the outcome ? Many thanks!

I've just found the exact same buildup in ours (MY2016 TDI 150). Had a couple of "Reductant pressure too low" errors recently, popped my head under the bonnet and immediately saw a huge clump of white crystals. I guess when it stops raining I'll clear it all off and see if I can spot where it's leaking. Anyone know how DIY-able replacing either the injector or hose would be ?

Thanks all. Just did some baseline logging with a stone cold, non-running engine and all temps are where you'd expect - so no fundamental sensor issue. I then went for a drive and did some logging. One of the measuring values I was looking at, is "Charge air temperature sensor" (IDE04003). The readings from this are of the format "B1S1/B1S2:23/35". I presume that means "Bank 1 Sensor 1 / Bank 1 Sensor 2". Does anyone know exactly where these two readings are taken ? The first of the numbers rises quickly under higher boost (during prolonged had accel up a hill this peaked around 120degC), whereas the second has relatively little change, typically in the 40degC region. From that I suspect they are the before/after air temps as it passes through the chargecooler. In which case - perhaps all is OK. I wonder if in the freeze-frame data stored with the other fault, when it says "Intake Air Temp" it's actually reporting the air temp between turbo and chargecooler.

Hi all Car is a Mk3 Superb 150 TDi SE L Exec 4x4. DFEA engine code, MY2016. Mileage about 56k. Completely standard. While looking at a separate fault (SCR pump pressure too low) using VCDS, I happened to notice in the freeze frame data that the intake air temperature is wayyy higher than expected - but this in itself it not flagging a fault. I have two sets of freeze frame data from two different days. On both days the ambient was between 0 and 5 degC. Engine speed around 1500rpm, just normal steady driving (no massive acceleration or hills). The air intake temp was been recorded at 91degC and 63degC 🤨 Car seems to drive just fine. Only thing we have noticed recently is that it seems to be doing more frequent regens. (I wondered if an incorrectly high intake air temp might be causing it to overfuel a little and soot the DPF faster? Or maybe that's a separate issue). Has anyone else had this issue with the intake air temps ? Maybe a common sensor fault or wiring fault ? Thanks for any thoughts.

I fitted them to my Yeti a few years ago, I found them just as comfortable (in fact given the old dampers were knackered and thudded/crashed about - it was a big improvement), but with more body control, exactly what I feel our Superb needs.

Cheers, yes already got it in my autodoc basket, just waiting for a day with a better discount!

Thanks

A question for those who have gone down the B6 + stock spring route. When fitting the spring to the damper, did you still have to use the item marked "13" on this diagram, for the bottom of the spring to sit in ? https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/shelf/mpn/5Q0412545D Many thanks!

Fantastic, just the info I was after, thanks. I'd been looking at the parts catalogues on 7zap, but for some reason the part numbers are now deliberately partially replaced with *s so you can't read them exactly. Oemepc seems to bee offline now too.

Hijacking this thread in the hope of picking @Carlston's clearly sizeable spring knowledge Where could I find a complete list of Superb Mk3 springs, showing the paint colour codes, part numbers and PR codes ? I have a MY2016 Superb 150 TDI 4x4 estate (with factory towbar). Front springs have two paint marks, blue and light grey (I think). PR codes: G01, 1JA, 0YF, L07. Am looking at changing dampers, and was half thinking of buying a second set of springs (to match the existing standards ones) so I could pre-assemble struts, and minimise time taken to take the car off the road to fit. Struggling to find a table that ties up the paint codes, PR codes with actual spring part numbers. Not looking at changing to a different spring type or lowering. Only thing I'm considering changing is fitting B6 dampers to reduce the floaty boaty ride. Thanks for any help!

Perhaps in this particular circumstance there's a slight mismatch between the level of engagement and the front/rear diff speed difference, such that there's a tiny bit of tension between the two axles ? Just enough for a gentle thump when it disengages. Perhaps this also explains the slight wheelspin when pulling left/right out of a side street - Haldex is not fully engaged (to allow for the front/rear steering difference) - so less drive to the rear than when front wheels are straight, hence a small amount of front spin. It's a lot less spin than you'd get in a front drive car (as I recall).

It's not reactive in the sense it's waiting for wheel slip. Under certain circumstances (setting off from standstill, or burying the throttle while on the move) it'll engage even if there's no slip. I just remembered a video I made ages ago, one winter when our drive was literally a sheet of ice (so much so I could barely stand up). Not particularly scientific and you can only see one side, but fun nevertheless... d