avie rose

Upgrading my car over the next couple of months, so need to get rid of my old furbie. Wanted to let briskodians have first refusal before it gets listed on autotrader. Its a 2003 1.9l SDi estate with the standard classic trim in dark green. Its currently at 148000 genuine miles, but still in daily use. The engine and gear box are still sweet as a nut, although there are a few gremlins begining to creep in throughout the car (see below). I don't think there is anything someone with some more time couldn't fix. The car has mostly been serviced by yours truely since its been in my posession for the past 5 years, so not many stamps since 2010. Good points 50-52 mpg average Cruise control New alternator 2k miles ago Upgraded front speakers and tweeters / rear speakers added to original empty mounting points No mechanical faults Finance clear No accidents MOTd until May 2016 Bad points Never got around to re-doing the paintwork on the bonnet (see pictures) Door seals need replacing / resealing as a bit of damp is now getting in Back box on exhaust needs replacing Boot won't open from pressure switch Battery light on dash doesn't come on (DMF wire?) Upgrades: Cruise control retrofitted by skoda dealer Pure DAB radio installed (also have the original symphony CD HU) Quickly tinted windows this summer (not the best job though I'm afraid) 3 button flip key The car is in Bromley, Kent. I'm looking for offers in the region of £850. I'll post picture tomorrow in the daylight.

Still not resolved this. Anyone got any wise ideas as to what I can try next? I have replaced wiring from c-pillar to boot release and tested for both continuity and voltage. Good continuity and the voltage spikes when pressing the release and the button on fob, but the pulse is too quick to get a reading on my multimeter. There is no sound from the motor at all on either the new one or the old one. I've had the old one apart and tested it on a12v power source and it works, so not a motor fault? I also tested for continuity across the pins for the release motor and that seems fine. Scratching my head a little over this one.

How did you get it to open again? My drivers door has deadlocked. Can hear the unit locking / unlocking with the remote & it will lock with the key in the barrel but when you pull the Handle at any time is as if it is deadlocked. As inconvenient as it is when this happens on the passenger door, it's a whole lot more of a faff when its the door you have to get in through.

I spent a couple of hours with the car and my soldering iron last weekend. I ended up replacing the wire from the c-pillar to the tailgate release motor because I wasn't getting consistent continuity along it. New wire has good continuity now, but the bloody thing still doesn't respond to either the grip handle or the remote fob. Guess my problem is further up the wiring towards the convenience module. First though, I'm going to need to check out the route under the trim around the NS rear door as there appears to be a small portable lake in there which probably isn't helping enormously with the boot release!!

Your on sir! I shall get back to you with the results. Probably won't be until next week though as it is SWMBO's birthday this weekend so I can't really get away with spending it on the car. Rookie question though. Why do I have to wait 15 mins before unplugging the ecu? Surely if the battery is disconnected there is no power in the circuits to short it on anything?

Yeah, it's 4.5l I believe (a touch over in my experience, but that could be because u always spill a little!) Just finished servicing mine, was rather too busy to do it myself the last couple of years, but had some time for this one. Forgot how much cheaper it is that taking it to the garage!

I did until December have a normally functioning charge light, but had the alt changed for a new one because of the charging issues. Then couple of months ago realised that I didn't have the charge/batt light on ignition anymore. I think I'll try bypassing the wires at some point, because the alt is new like I say as is the battery (~8 months). Having said that, i can also having some other electrical issues, so perhaps it is just a gremlin that had moved into my car!

Cheers guys. wino - engine code is ASY (I think. Its an sdi) 2003/4. The reason I asked about the dmf wire as well is because the alternator doesn't charge the battery until about 3000rpm. Checked the voltages on the alternator connection for the exciter and dmf wires today and they read 11.8v and 6.4v respectively. This to me would seem to suggest that there is good continuity on both wires, no?

Does this mean you can by-pass the connector at the gear box and just route it to the ECU? Also I seem to have some duplicate wiring colours in the loom to my ECU, so you know which pin the DMF wire goes to? Cheers

Yeah, I had that issue as well. As soon as I tightened that cable it opens first time every time now. I think the cable had just stretched enough so that there wasn't enough tension to push the trigger all the way to open the latch.

Have you tried tightening the cable from the lever at the latch end. Mine wouldn't always pop first go until it took some slack out of it.

The boot light is going off when I close it, but it doesn't always come on straight away, or at all some times. I'll pop out and have a look at the loom in the rubber housing later today. Is there any special technique to removing it enough to inspect the wires?

Hi there, On my mk 1 sdi estate, I can't open my boot from the fob or the finger pad above the licence plate, only from the lever by the drivers door. Last week I changed it the whole latch assembly for a new one, with the solenoid. However it still doesn't work. I've put the multi meter across the pins in the wiring harness that goes into the solenoid and get a reading of about 0.5v for a fraction of a second when pressing the boot release on the fob and the finger pad. I assume this should be more in the region of 8-12v for the solenoid to fire. If this is the case what could be causing my low voltage? FYI, I also suspect that the microswitch in the drivers door locking mechanism had failed, could the issues be linked?

Replaced the whole locking unit today and still getting nothing off of the fob or the tailgate button. I measure about 0.6v for a fraction of a second across the 2-pin connector that goes into the solenoid when pressing the boot release. I'm guessing it should be in the region of 8-12v? Bit stumped as to where to go next tbh...

Had a look at the boot locking system again yesterday, the push button seems to be fine and I put a multimetre across the wire connectors that hook up to the release solenoid, that does seem to get a pulse (can't remember what it was reading now), but the motor doesn't run. So I am now assuming that it is something to do with that solenoid. I'm going to try to strip it out over the weekend to see if I can fix it, but I want to look into replacing it just in case. Do I need to get the whole catch unit (i.e. the mechanical catch + the motor / solenoid) or can I just swap out the solenoid. I've found a couple of possibilities: Whole catch + solenoid - Part number - 6Y0827511G (Looks different, but the one recommended by skodaparts.com) Whole catch + solenoid - Part number - 6Y0827511A (Looks exactly the same as the whole unit currently installed) Audi A4 solenoind only - Part number - 4B9962115C (Looks the same as the old solenoid) Does anyone know which is the best to go for and also will the A4 actuator fit. I looks the same from the pics but that doesn't mean it is of course! Thanks in advance.