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buckers0

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    Otley, yorkshire, england

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    2006 1.9tdi 4x4 estate

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  1. Good news at last! Skoda rang me yesterday to say diagnostics showed a faulty injector! I questioned if diagnostics first time didn't pick this up, but they said because it was intermittent that it hadn't showed a fault then; ahem...i was of the belief that the ecu stores fault codes, i.e. if at any point it was mis running then it would have picked that up? Anyway, he went on to explain that they were sure that the turbo replacement was needed too, and that changing it had made it smoke less. I beg to differ. At least i have a spare turbo and intercooler now, as i'm sure these were fine, there being no change in its performance after replacement. So an internet auction site might be used soon, or i'll keep them as spares! Anyway the warranty have paid for the turbo, intercooler, the new injector and the door window motor mechanism (not previously mentinoned here, but i'll just comment on it in a sec, by all means moderators please place this seperately if useful to others). I'm just pleased i personally didn't have to fork out, as the bill must be in the region of £2000, so i'd have been crying into my cornflakes. I drove it home earlier, and indeed though i have only covered about 8 miles back home, it appeared to be running fine, with no smoke, no lumpy idle and even better....mpg in tail end rush hour traffic, 3rd gear mostly, with a bit of hill travel home, 56mpg! So looks like this will be heading towards 'true owners mpg' figures per this site and honest john. I was hoping they would leave me the faulty injector, as i have a family friend who is a diesel injection specialist, so would have passed it to him for 'fettling', but they told me it was an exchange item (?) Regarding the window motor, from the master electric window controller only, on the drivers door, when operating the passenger window, sometimes its worked fine, sometimes it had a mind of its own, going down in 'stutters' or else not at all, or going up, when pressing down etc. I checked the harness and door connector within the bellows, all appearing fine. It turns out that the drivers door has an ecu type box attached to the motor, which also is the brains for the drivers and passenger door, and this is a common fault, per the dealer. This is changed now, and alls well. When i was investigating it, i did find small bits of glass in the bottom of the door, i.e. it has had a new window in it at some time, so perhaps water ingress was the original culprit, but i notice when it rains and the door is opened, the door handle and switch do very quickly seem to always get a covering as if poorly shielded. Thanks in particular to estate man, as i thought an injector might be the place to look, which you also suggested. Pity they didn't listen when i first took it in!
  2. i checked the pipes/breathers etc, and have blown them out with an airline. They were fine. I have cleaned the egr again, just to make sure and it is perfectly free and raising/lowering fine under vaccuum. I have noticed that there is no smoke whatsoever on start up, (so probably not valve guide seals) nor most of the time when driving at say motorway speed (or at least not obviously). I even tried swapping the maf sensor out of my octavia, but this hasn't changed anything; (however unplugging it had little noticeable effect. However it is particularly prevailant when on the overrun or having been tootling around at low speed locally, then when one puts the foot down, say pulling out of a junction, it belches out. I did a run up to Newcastle (100m each way) yesterday, iwth the whole family at a brisk pace; no issues and went well, giving just short of 50 mpg. But it barely ever goes above this mpg. Elsewhere on this forum, owners state getting 60's and early 70mpg. Short of freefallling out of the sky with wind behind it, mine will never achieve this. I'm still of the belief that it is fuel delivery related i.e. a dodgy injector or fuel pump problem - overfueling? but i've had enough and it goes back to main dealer tomorrow.
  3. Hi, i have done valve stem oil seals years ago on old fords; Just how easy is it on this engine/is their any DIY guides to do this? I take it the cam shaft would have to come out/it would be a pretty big strip down job?
  4. i got the car back yesterday and yes, brand new oem part turbo and intercooler fitted. They warned me that it might be giving out a little smoke for a while, until the remainder of the oil got burned out of the exhaust system, which is fair enough. For a mile or two i noticed this. The car itself runs operationally as good as before (sic) i.e. still goes well, not better or worse, starts first time, pulls the same. However its early days, but i still think its no better than before, particularly on the over run or after idling leaving plumes of white/blue smoke, which after a couple of bursts, clears, the exhaust gases appearing to clear up for a short while. I have now put about 70 miles on since yesterday, deliberatley going for a longer run this am, to first warm it up, then give it a bit more to blow webs off. The economy isn't any better either, hitting late 40's early 50's at best so far. I'll certainly give it another 50 miles or so, but am sure its burnt any residual oil off and am beginning to think we still haven't got to route of the problem. The warranty company are not gonna be impressed, me neither. To my knowledge they haven't changed any egr gubbings, but they did put diagnostic machine on it. I am also wondering if its something mechanically basic like the rings gone on one of the cylinders, but would have thought the smoking would be more persistent/continuous? I'll update again as this progresses; any ideas?
  5. I have tried to 'give it some' when the engine was warmed up, as part of my drive to work is on the motorway. I thought the same, about blowing the cobwebs off it so to speak. My other motor, an octavia 1.9 pd tdi began run a bit 'power stifled so i did this style of driving, giving it a bit more boot/keeping it in gear longer, and sure enough it cleared it out/all was well again. But on this one, if skoda are correct, then its more than just gummed up. Once they decide who is paying for the fix, if i keep it i'll be interested to know exactly what cures it/whether or not they are right!
  6. well, we got the dealer report this am. it turns out that the turbo oil seals have gone and due to this intercooler is dripping oil out. #notimpressed.com if it had 139000 miles i might understand it,but 39000 with main dealer history i.e. good oil should have been put in and regularly? between main dealer and supplying dealer its going to get sorted but im annoyed. i'll post their progress/how good the car becomes
  7. Thankyou both for replying and doing so, so promptly. I have previously checked the airfilter, and it certainly appeared clean and dry (though must admit supplying dealer said it would be fully serviced prior to sale...the air filter, and fuel filter defo had not been changed, i thought this would have been the minimum). I'm interested re the egr cleaning. I must admit, i wonder if this is still sticking. But i do feel that perhaps an intermittent fault on one of the injectors is the cause. Anyway, whereas normally i buy private cars, and service them myself, with this one i part exed the other, buying from trade, to avoid the hassle due to a complicated home life at the mo. For this reason (and the car came with some warranty) i admit defeat at the moment; its now with the skoda main dealer, but i'll happily update once i find out what's wrong. I was pleased that whilst it didn't do a lot of smoking on the drive down to the dealer this am, i initially blipped the throttle, with normal/not much smoke, as the technician watched. However as i talked to him, with it idling, just prior to handing over the keys, i blipped it and sure enough, engulfed him in a blue haze, on cue!
  8. Calling any diesel experts out there... I have recently purchased a 1.4tdi fabia mark 2, 2008 year, with 39500 on the clock. It has full service main dealer service history, and starts and stops perfect, on the first turn of the key. It is also an none dpf model. However it has some symptoms which can't be right. Occasionally it has a very vibratey idle. The dealer told me this is due to the quirky 3 cylinder, but 98% of the time it is smooth enough, put when it does go ' off beat' it vibrates the whole dash and feels uncomfortable to be in, nearly as if it is missing on a cylinder. The idle speed though appear fine, i.e. not particularly varying. When you've been driving it, particularly after say a descent on the overrun, then put the pedal down, it belches out a lot of blue smoke, which quickly enough disperses, but is embarassing and i can see motorcyclists/cyclists fanning the fumes away. A mate stood behind the car said it smelt of unburnt diesel. The smoking has been very regular this last few days, but last week seemed to have eased off. Its mpg isn't that good. If you are even moderatley heavy on the pedal, it does mid 40's. The best i have got is 57mpg, but that was on a slight down hill run to work at literally keeping it to sub 2000 rpm and not going above 60mph. It doesn't seem to be using oil though. The oil and filter have been changed, the egr cleaned ( it was heavily sooted up), loads of injector clean put in the fuel filter/through the intake. If you were to hold the foot flat to the floor, it redlines at 5000 rpm and won't go any higher. Any ideas please? I'm desperate to have a reliable car, which is what i got it for, but fear its gonna have to be got rid of. The main dealer i got it from (not a Skoda dealer) had it for a week, but seem to be out of there depth re bottoming it. I hoping sales of goods legislation covers it, as i have had it a month now, having let them know from the outset about it smoking. But no matter how driven a 39000 mile car should not be like this. Thanks
  9. thanks for this post, my 1.9tdi 4x4 105bhp 2006 motor with 79000 miles on clock, is behaving exactly the same, so as soon as, i'll have a go at this procedure. I take it this can be done via the top of the engine, by just removing some of the egr pipework, which will give better access? I have previously cleaned the egr, so can do this, but as is, can barely see the turbo from above. I know people say modern diesels need some welly to prevent the soot build up (the previous owner appeared to drive like miss daisy, so this is prob the case) but its a poor show, that this is happening to all diesels...my previous vauxhall zafira was always coking up. I hoped skoda with this older style engine would be better, and didnt know it utilised variable vane technology. If i had i would have avoided, as i know of the problems BMW diesels are having re the same. I never had such bother with my year 2000 1.8 tdi focus, a few years back. A dinasaur of an engine, but it kept going without fault!
  10. As way of a thankyou re searching on this forum and the hint i got to resolving my own aircon fault, i thought i'd let you know how i have got mine back working again. Having bought my 2006 1.9tdi 4x4 last March, i was sure the aircon worked when i got it, but sometime since i realised it had given up the ghost, particularly during onset of winter, where car kept misting up, with defunct aircon not helping. I presumed that it just needed re gassing... Ist tip. Before taking it in for regas, you can easy enough check whether or not it is gassed up by wearing a gloved/covered hand and eyewear and just giving the schrader (bicycle inner tube style) regassing valve, near the front drivers side of the car, under the bonnet, a quick push in, with a screwdriver. Take care here, as if gassed up, it will eject a bit of the refridgerant at a fair gust, so don't get it in your face/on your hands.If nothing much happens, then you are out of gas. I was advised this after the event, but got it regassed up locally; they stated that whilst it had been gassed fine, there was a problem, where the pump compressor appeared to be turning, but not circulating the stuff around. I was skeptical regarding the quality of their work done, anticipating a rouse just to get more work out of me, so set about diagnosing the problem elsewhere. 2nd tip There is a lot of talk about whether or not the pump should be seen spinning when aircon is switched on. On some cars, such as my other motor a 3 series BMW, when one switches it from off, where a magnetic clutch is not engaged, so the centre remains stationary; to switching it on, where the centre now spins, once magnetically engaged, is an obvious clue. Even the aircon garage that regassed it for me was not aware of this, but on this year of car, externally, the pump will always appear to be spinning, whether on or off, as i believe there is some kind of internal switching/clutch. I am led to believe that later model cars have gone back to the visible magnetic clutch idea, but cannot add to this. A good friend of mine has diagnostic equipment, and read the fault codes as 05697 please check air conditioning; 0819 high pressure sender short circuit/intermittent and 32769 fault - no info. I know these have a reputation for the valeo compressors being poor, but mine is a 78000 one previous careful owner car, surely they can't be that poor? Wanting to try the cheapest options first, i opted for the most obvious culprit, the high pressure sender sensor. The other post i searched for on this forum mentioned a N290 control solenoid, which gave me the hint to this fault, so thanks for that; they are one and the same thing. It is located on the front drivers side aircon high pressure (the narrower one) pipe, near the compressor pulley, with a three pin wire connector on it. The sensor has a list price of £68 according to my invoice from the european car parts supplier i used, (I don't think i'm allowed to quote the proper name), but the trade price is much lower. Aim for a price of £20-£30, easily available from another german 3rd party national parts supplier too. Its Skoda part number is 1J0959126, but this supplier had its own part number reference of 236440030. Fitment is tricky in terms of no room for a spanner, but is 17mm regular spanner size....i did it my filing out an old 'crow foot' open spanner attachment, at the end of three 3/8 drive extension bars, on a ratchet, done from above, which did it easily. There is no need to have the car degassed or regassed by doing this either, provided you take it off swiftly, i.e. don't leave the sensor half way undone; this is because as you see when removed, it exposes another shrader valve, which obviously will self close, when the sensor is taken off. Tip 3 - On mine, another fault clue was that neither of the visible twin radiator fans were coming on, when aircon switched on. Now i can't vouch whether or not these are also temperature related fans, as this time of year they won't kick in at all. Anyway, with the right tool, the part can be fitted in about 1 minute. The result? Aircon is back, and both fans now kick in, when the aircon is switched on! And it also validated what the aircon garage had told me, so they'll get my regass business again. I have taken pictures of the sender location, it taken off and the tool i used, but don't know how to upload it here; if anyone can enlighten me, i'd be happy to do so.
  11. This price quoted is similar to what the skoda dealer quoted me, and i guess isn't bad, based on the parts being brand new, with some comeback (being main dealer fitted) and includes nearly £200 of parts. But i'm tight, not wanting to pay £50 per hour labour rates, when i don't earn anywhere near that in my own job, so prefer to do most of the fitting work myself. But as reguards the 'overhauling the pump yourself', remember its not the pump which tends to fault, it is the seperated hydraulic acuator block, which is not serviceable my the average person. I am above average mechanically capable, but this unit is a calibrated 'black box' type thing.
  12. to PMC Yes mate, the 4x4 uses the same 1.9 tdi as the normal range, but obviously has different rear transmission bits. I ordered the kit for my 2006 4x4 1.9 tdi via Skoda Bradford main dealer (DM Keith), fitted it myself and its sorted... no warning lights and brakes bled as part of fitment, so nice and firm (they felt a bit spongy previously). If in doubt, visit the main dealer to make sure you get the right part, but it does work. There is a lot of guff both on forums and from local garages re the coding, compatability etc. But you are not changing the electronic bit i.e. doesn't need recoding, just an hydraulic part, which has a faulty internal part; causing an error on the dash, hence onboard computer says no to esp etc/traction control working.
  13. 24 - buckers - Octavia 4x4 tdi estate - Reg Dec 2006, failed approx June 2011, 75k, main dealer were not interested, so also bought kit, self fitted and sorted it!
  14. Many thanks to the initiator of this thread; it has saved me a fortune and resolved my frustration at the traction control light being permanently on. Just to add my experiences, my car is a 2006 1.9tdi 4x4 octavia, with 75000 miles on the clock. When i got it 6mths ago all was well, but for the past month the light has been on (but the brakes have felt fine). There is several options for purchasing a replacement pump unit. BBA Reman, Sinspeed and ECU testing all do reconditioned ones, at a reasonable price (starting at about £165 ish to redo your existing one, with a few days turn around to about £250 to send you a reconditioned one off the shelf straight away, but requiring your old one back on exchange. Being a bit cautious, due to reading a lot of comments stating this or that pump ref number isn't compatible, i opted to go straight to the main dealer, in Bradford, and let their 'parts' computer tell me which kit will do. For my original part number IK0614517AB, they confirmed that the replacement kit Ik0698517B is the one, and quoted a price of £174.64 plus vat. This is for a brand new unit, the alloy hydraulic bit, with a new electric motor. It is also possible to get the electronic black bit from them, but this is about £700, and isn't the bit that usually fails, so be careful removing it! Besides i am led to believe that if you changed this bit, then it would need coding in to the car using VAGCOM. By using your existing one, this isn't needed. Follow the instructions posted on this earlier post and you can't go wrong. The instructions it comes with are indeed poorly copied/badly edited, so best print this forums one out, which is clearer. For clarity, unconnecting and removing the battery, air intake and battery tray is neccesary for access, and doesn't create any recoding problems. To best get the pump out, remove it on its whole bracket complete, by undoing the two nuts which attach the pump/bracket to the chassis leg, after cracking the pump/brake pipe unions. It then comes out easily. (Initially i tried removing it off its bracket via the 2 10mm small bolts, but this is far too difficult access wise). Once fitted, run the engine to activate the master cylinder and properly bleed all the brakes, front ones first. Throughout this your dashboard will be lit up with warning lights like a christmas tree but don't worry about this. Once this is done, test the brake pedal for firmness and after several metres of driving, provided you have bled it right, fitted it right etc, the computer will self reset the warning lights. Mine had cancelled them as i turned the car around, outside the house!. I was spun a lot of guff by local garages about needing VAGCOM then to 'purge' the system or cancel the lights etc. This is not neccesary, if you are trying to rectify the G201 Brake Pressure sender 1 fault...this repair will have sorted it. I did get it read though initially just to confirm the right fault codes. Local garages quoted about 3 hours labour, Skoda allow 2 hours. I did it myself and think that 3 hours is realistic for a DIY person and i used a friend to assist as the pedal man, re bleeding. Another point is don't even think about trying to self mend the alloy pump unit. Whilst i am confident with most spannering type jobs, basically these are a sealed callibrated 'black box' thing, so leave the experts to do their magic on them. But the fitment is fairly straight forward. The skoda dealership service department themselves gave me no assistance re any potential 'recall' and just stated that to get to the bottom of it i would initially have to pay them their obligatory £70 or £80 diagnostic fee, and take it from there. However they parts counter person was very helpful, so full credit to her. To summarise, if your traction control light has come on, get the fault code read locally (garages charge £10 to £30ish to read it, and if its the G201 code and you are mechanically competent, then do it yourself, save a lot on the labour cost and you won't need a further code reset.
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