kentphil1

Hi, welcome to Briskoda, That's in the area of where the fuel filter lives, I would check if you have a loose filter connection or a split pipe to start with. Hope it helps.

Yep, that's the one i was talking about, unfortunately, they are almost a consumable item after 6-7 years, as the o ring fails and the housing distorts because of the extra heat.

I would be inclined to check the plastic housing that the temp sender is mounted in, when that starts to leak, it can give that type of odd temp issue, until the crack gets larger (in the housing) and becomes a full on leak. you should see some staining by the head if it's starting to fail.

A place to start your diagnosis from, - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17524/P1116/004374

As Ken said, raising the rear ride height will induce a tendancy for oversteer, unless you make supporting adjustments to counter the effect. However, that being said, something is not quite right with that readout on the geometry. As this axle has come from another vehicle, has it had had stubaxle camber shims fitted incorrectly to throw the toe out?, if not can you see any odd creases in the plate on the rear axle that the stub axle bolts to indicating previous kerbing or impact damage?.

4F7 is a hexadecimal code that converts to 01271 in decimal, info here to get you along the path, hope it helps - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01271

You buy the cable and download the software free, updates are free as long as the cable is legit. A word of caution, there are many clone cables about, a good indicator is the software supplied is on cd, the legit software never comes that way. other indicator is a really out of date software version being sold with the cable. for info, latest version is 22.9.0. There are plenty of members on here who would scan the car for you, some just do it for beer tokens. Check out the map in the vcds section on here.

One of those codes p0725 is a generic code for the crank sensor and wiring, the second should only be a ford and toyota code, and the third has some guidance here - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18258/P1850 However, in view of the fact that you appear to be picking up obviously rogue codes with the software, then i would suggest a scan with VCDS may yield a different set of codes. Finally, in answer to your question, if the first code does actually exist, (my point above would put a doubt over that), then yes, a fault in the crank sensor or the wiring to it would cause that exact issue. Hope it helps

Hi, Welcome to Briskoda. This might give you some things to check - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17656/P1248/004680 What software did you mate use to scan the system, was it VCDS?. Edit, ignore the last comment, could not see your pictures at first, but can now.

It's been a while since I've had an O2J box in bits, but from memory, I think that is the bottom support plate for the gear selector shaft. I'm not sure you can remove that without the spool dropping if it is the plate I think it is.

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./132_kw_engine_mechanical_components/engine_cooling/removing_and_installing_parts_of_the_cooling_system_part_2/removing_and_installing_coolant_regulator/removing/ https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./132_kw_engine_mechanical_components/engine_cooling/removing_and_installing_parts_of_the_cooling_system_part_2/removing_and_installing_coolant_regulator/install/ Only really posted this for pictures really, as the job can all be done from above, just spray the thermostat housing bolts with wd40 about an hour before you want to do the job, makes life easier in the long run. Also, mk1 and mk2 engines are nothing like each other, so that is only going to confuse you looking at pictures of a mk2. Hope it helps

Having done this job quite a few times, you shouldn't need to touch anything on the alternator as the wobble bar can get around the body of the unit. A quality hex head (6 sided) rather than star type (12 sided) 1/4 drive socket will see the job done, you just need to get the plastic shroud around the dipstick swung out of the way. The hose is easiest if you crack it loose to move after loosening the clip, then leave it on until the bolts are free which will allow you more room to pull the housing free from the hose. If you intend to use 1/2 inch drive tools, it will be a struggle,

Doing a thermostat on an auq 1.8t is not too bad a job if you possess a 1/4 drive socket set and a good 1/4 drive wobble bar set. With those, you can get under the alternator in situ and remove the stat without too much grief, without them it is much more difficult.

The main issue you will have is that the levelling system uses different motors, so the manual level wont work out of the box, and you don't have the self levelling system hardware there either on a vrs without a retrofit. I appreciate that Irish law may be different, but you need some kind of motor in place just to stop the projector bouncing around free inside the lamp body as you go over bumps etc. Even with the kufatec adaptors, that will only get the lamps working, but you may find the dip beam goes out when on main beam rather than staying illuminated as with the halogen setup, so you will lose light output. The proper factory sytem requires an extra feed from the headlamp switch to properly sort that issue. Those of us that have fitted them have either retrofitted all the levelling hardware, or as people like me have done, we have modified the lighting looms and the lamp bodies to allow for use of the manual levelling motors. Either way, you can't really call it a plug and play upgrade without some fairly serious work time on the job. Hope it helps.

In which case, either you have fitted a different spec switch unit, or the used unit could be defective - assuming you have double checked the connections to the unit have been correctly fitted and have not shook loose for any reason.