Chris_55
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2007 Fabia 3 Cruise control not working
Chris_55 replied to hutchysrs50's topic in Skoda Fabia Mk II (2007-2014)
Have you looked at this page? http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Checking_Cruise_Control_using_Measuring_Values -
03 ABS "01314 - Engine Control Module 013 - Check DTC Memory" DTC = Diagnostic Trouble code This code is just telling you you have a fault code in the engine control ECU namely 000256 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) P0100 - 004 - Supply Voltage. Can't help with the other things.
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procedure electric window reset Fabia/Roomster 2007
Chris_55 replied to pondweed's topic in Diagnostics & VCDS
Maybe wire(s) have been broken for some time, but if you don't lock/unlock using the door key then you wouldn't know. Some of the symptoms of broken wire(s) is the door open lamp on the dash does not work and the lights left on buzzer doesn't work. You may not notice this if you bought secondhand and didn't know the functions existed or had just forgotten. -
procedure electric window reset Fabia/Roomster 2007
Chris_55 replied to pondweed's topic in Diagnostics & VCDS
Does the central locking work from the door key? i.e. does the door key lock/unlock all the other doors? I think there is only one switch in the door lock that operates the central locking and the window reset, so if the central locking doesn't work either I wonder if you have a wiring problem such as this: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/281191-2008-model-drivers-door-switch-failure/ -
procedure electric window reset Fabia/Roomster 2007
Chris_55 replied to pondweed's topic in Diagnostics & VCDS
Not sure what problem you are trying to solve. The following is from a 2008 Fabia handbook: Operational faults Electrically operated power windows do not operate If the battery of the car has been disconnected and then reconnected, the electrically operated power windows do not operate. The system must be activated. Proceed as follows in order to re-establish the function: • turn the key in the lock of the driver door into the closing position and hold it there until all of the windows are closed, • release the key, • Once again insert the key and turn it into the closing position for about 3 seconds. Operation in winter Ice accumulating on the surface of the windows during the winter may result in a greater resistance when closing the windows and the window may stop and move back several centimetres Proceed as follows to close the window fully: • turn the key in the lock of the driver door into the closing position and hold it there until all of the windows are closed, • repeat this operation until the window stops. If you substitute 'locking position' for 'closing position' in the text, then I can confirm the procedure works but, in my experience, only to get the 'one shot' closing functioning again. It won't fix window(s) that don't work at all. -
Door locks fault finding - 6n arosa with wonky central locking
Chris_55 replied to karlbar2k's topic in Diagnostics & VCDS
Don't claim to be expert at this but the first fault: 00849 - S-contact at Ignition/Starter Switch (D) 25-00 - Unknown Switch Condition May mean the central locking wont work because the controller 'thinks' the key is still in the ignition, it maybe worth cleaning the barrel to get this working first. -
Don't have the car now, but as far is I remember there are a couple of studs holding it to the manifold and an electrical connection. I seem to remember the EGR pipe is connected under the throttle body to an adaptor plate which can be removed for cleaning also.
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One thing I found was that removing the throttle body, cleaning it and the manifold underneath it helped impove the running, you may need to readapt the throttle body afterwards. I think there is a software update for the 16407 code.
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Shouldn't need to be expensive to change the fluid. This is a DIY job but you will need to make some means to get the fluid in the box, maybe a plumbing fitting and some plastic tube. Have a look at youtube for methods, ideally the fluid level should be checked at about 40°C ish temperature checked with VCDS or similar, but if you but back the quantity that came out it should be OK. May take two goes to change most of the fluid as some will be trapped in the torque converter and won't drain.
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Can't say I've noticed this with ours, but what would make the box change down? I guess a combination of throttle position, vehicle speed, inclination, inlet manifold pressure? I guess it could be the gearbox ECU is missing a value it needs, rather than the box itself being faulty. Have you scanned the car for fault codes in the engine, gearbox and ABS?
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Our '08 hatch bought new, usually only drives round a little town on the south coast mostly under 40mph and rarely ever warming fully up , it's got 25k on it, but the gearbox seems fine. I was going to suggest a fluid + filter change but as you say the gears are slipping I'm not sure if this would be helpful, have you taken a fluid sample to look for burnt/black condition?
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The part number of your existing remote should be visible once you split it from the key portion. If it's the same as the one in my post you linked to I should think the same coding method will work.
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Lupo unabled to connect to engine module?
Chris_55 replied to TeflonTom's topic in Diagnostics & VCDS
Maybe the problem is related to baud rate: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/issues.html