EZ_lo

Actually, M6 I believe ... Or was it M5? Somehow I came to the conclusion that it just does not look like the regular thread Will not bet on it ... I should have done more thorough testing.

Thank you, lads! There is a lot of space for improvements though. E.g. I wanted to use those threaded bolts sticking out of the floor to secure the assembly. But they seem to have non-standard thread (meant for plastic nuts).

I am guessing Llanigraham is probably right. Every single part of a car needs some sort of a approval. Including wheels (even temporary use). Otherwise you wuold want to use a wooden one for example So - most probably every tyre/rim combination not listed by manufacturer is not approved. Now - it can be illegal or only ruin your chance to get insurance money in case sth happens ... Bottom line is: you use space saver wheel - you do it at your own risk. Technically it should work perfectly (proper rim, proper tyre).

Hi there! Actually I am not aware of specific regulations concerning the use of space saver wheel (in EU nor UK). The wheel I have comes from some other VAG car, so it probably had some approvals. Don't know. But this is not exactly the point of my post ... The point is that you can quite easily (and cheaply) "manufacture" DIY underfloor storage for wheel and other rubbish in case you only have the repair kit. The actual wheel size does not matter - just a couple of dimensions would need to be adjusted if you want to use Skoda spare wheel or even regular size wheel. I still hope it will be useful for someone

Hi there guys! Long time no see ... Just wanted to share my idea for having a spare wheel in the boot (space-saver) while at the same time significantly saving space compared to the original Skoda solution. As a bonus: it is probably cheaper (cost me ~40-50 Euros). My Yeti came with no spare wheel option which was ok for me since I needed space for carrying baby prams and such. But at the same time I wanted to have a spare when I need it so I went for a space-saver wheel (125/90 R16 size; bought used) and carried it in upright position. Now, when the need for every cubic inch of space is no longer there, I wanted to civilise things a little. So I measured how tall the storage box aroung the wheel (lying where all well-mannered spares should be) needs to be for the floor to equal the wheel level. In my case it was ~87 mm (wheel dished side up), 125 mm (dished side down). Probably, due to the shape of steel floor under the wheel (mounting point off centre), 125/80 R17 would be even lower (~5 mm). Then there are two ways of filling the space around the wheel: using the original storage boxes and trimming their height (expensive) or building your own using for example plywood (much cheaper). I chose route #2. What you will need: - plywood for the storage compartment (in my case 18mm thick, 87 mm wide; the DIY retailer price included cutting it into pieces as required) - wood screws (~50 mm long, 20 pieces; ~30 mm long, 8 pieces) - plywood 4 mm thick (to strenghten the floor) + couple of wooden leftovers (in my case 10x10 mm) - solution for mounting the wheel (in my case: M10 threaded rod cut to size, M10 rectangular channel nut, M10 wing nut, M10 washer (large), rubber washers and something that seems to be table leg corner bracket) - boot liner (I bought it from roll from carpet retailer) - rubber liner (likewise) First I just screwed the plywood parts together - pretty straightforward. Then I cut the rubber liner to fit under the box and under the wheel (secures the floor from scratches). Step 3 was to cut the plywood floor that will sit on top of the box and wheel along with the carpet. And lastly, screw the wheel in place. Notes: No irreversible changes done to car. Original trunk liner and round styrofoam insert remain intact (but need to be stored somewhere). The floor went only ~9 cm up. You are still able to use regular nets. Yes I know my space saver is smaller diameter than the original 195/60 R16. But it is only 5mm radius difference. Can live with that when in emergency. The wheel fixing point is roughly 5 cm to the left from the car axis (is not in the middle hence the difference between left and right storage compartments). Since it is summer holidays maybe someone finds it useful.

Right now my wife went there to spare me another visit. Apparently they regret they they did not show me previous time this magical device showing how precisely my headlights were adjusted ... Except that when I checked the adjustment there was 10 cm height difference at 3m distance to wall. Which is approximately 3,3% Anyone can provide me with some source of data confirming that Yeti headlight height is 780 mm?

1M1M here (muscovado). The other two options I considered were white and cappuccino. Go for white than (it's cheaper too )

Thank you. I hope it is really this way because I am getting fed up with the technicians I am dealing with over here... Been 4x to the dealers and the lights are never ok (they changed the angle from 2,6% to ~0,6% then to 3% and back again). Dunno - maybe they should turn the screw 1/16 turn instead of 1/8 or so. Dunno what kind of equipment they have. I don't really care ... Anyway I will give them one last chance today and will do it myself then ... I am going for holidays and I am not willing to get ticket with German writings on it and payable in euro

Hey - Duster is a really fine car! And its price is brilliant too. And I believe that the guts inside, although not the most advanced, are reliable too. If it only had bigger trunk I would consider buying it instead of Yeti (in which I've fallen in love) because of a price difference. But the trunk is small (especially in 4x4) ...

I don't know if there is much rivalry between the two. Both have 5 people capacity, but Yeti can "swallow" them with luggage too ... 4x4 Duster's boot capacity is ridiculusly low. Not to mention all the other important differences.

Thank you guys! That clarified a lot. Hope it will be useful to others as well.

Boy it got me confused ... So again. If I understood Tech1e correctly, the adjustment is only possible when there is a qualified technician with VAGCOM available. So nothing is end-user-adjustable, because the system will not "memorise" the changes. You say it is the opposite. And Shadowphax in the other thread says that there are differences between Yeti's and Fabia's xenons (Yeti allows adjustment). Where does the truth lie? There are no xenons without self levelling. And this adjusting minor drawback is nothing compared to absolute awsomness of xenons when compared to regular bulbs! I'll go for them any time again!

Ok Tech1e - so that is exactly what I was asking: if it is possible to adjust them without VAGCOM thingy. Turns out it is not, is it?

Thank you, kind Sir So the procedure goes on like this: - proper place & position - engine & lights on - adjusting until happy - lights & engine off - good to go?