logiclee

As described above. Sound like diff failure rather than haldex engagement issue. Haldex engagement is electronically controlled via an electric pump on the Yeti. Did the garage doing the Haldex change do the service? Sounds like a cover up. You are not the first and wont be the last to have a diff fail because of an incorrect service.

Yes very common. You could try. https://www.satnavsystems.com/diagnostics-repairs/

What were the symptoms? Noisy from the rear? It sounds like whoever did the service on the haldex drained the diff.

On a dry clutch DSG DQ200 there should be no creep with a firm brake pedal press as the clutches should be clear. As the brake pedal is lifted the engine rpm should increase slightly from idle and the clutches should move to bite point and you should get creep. If hill hold is activated you will have to wait until it releases. For Wet Clutch models creep more significant but the basic principle is the same. My DQ200 history isn't promising. Fabia 1.2TSi. Replaced clutch pack under warranty due to Judder. Yeti 1.2TSi. Replaced clutch pack under warranty due to Slip. Yeti 1.2TSi. Clutches slipping but returned on lease before repair Octavia 1.6TDi. Clutch Pack, Flywheel, Mechatronic and gear lever replaced under warranty. Our current Fabia 1.0TSi is OK for now. Over the last 15 years I've also owned four wet clutch models. (3x DQ250 and DL501) over 250k miles and not a single issue.

Try these https://www.satnavsystems.com/diagnostics-repairs/

Under the bumper foglights were never a factory or dealer option for the XR3i or RS1600i The Mk3 XR3i and RS1600i did have metal bumpers but the optional spot/driving lights came with "L" brackets. Four pre-drilled holes in the front crossmember and the lights bolted to the bracket sticking out just above the bumper. ie In the 80's myself and three other mates bought an XR3i each, all identical. I fitted above bumper driving lights to all four cars.

Not in Borg Warners opinion. Moving torque rearwards before slip has occurred using input from sensors and lines of code is classed as pre-emptive. It's not reacting to slipping wheel when traction is already lost. That's no different really to the many different modes in more off road biased 4x4's where torque is distributed depending on mode selected and input from sensors prior to wheel slip. As an Electrical Engineer working daily with code Pre-emptive systems are common place whether you agree with the terminology or not. Definition In this case the software Prevents "Forestall" Slip by taking advance action before slip occurs.

Correct. If you are in first and ask for 85% torque with your right foot chances are the Haldex ECU will give you some rear axle assistance before the engine can give you what you've asked for. But some steering lock on a wet low grip road, low grip tyres with 25% torque demand and it may well be reacting to that slip. And even with a 50/50 split of torque front / rear torque you may still get some spin on that inside front that the traction control has to try and brake. We are not talking 3 locked differentials here. On the rollers. Gen 5 vs Torsen Quattro

Gen 1, 2 and 3 were reactive. Gen 4 and 5 are pre-emptive and work with the cars stability systems to pre-empt a loss of traction and move torque rearwards before slip occurs. This can be a high torque demand from launch or launch control activated, input from steering angle, yaw angle sensors and engine torque demand. The parameters are even changed if a trailer is attached as long as it's correctly coded. The post from Muddyboots assumes that haldex is either fully engaged or not engaged. This is not the case. For Gen 4 and Gen 5 the ECU can adjust the pressure on the wet clutch plates which allows slip. This adjusts how much torque is sent to the rear axle and also allows speed differential between the front and rear axle which avoids windup. For the reactive part of the system Gen 4 and Gen 5 can send 50% of the torque to the rear wheels within 1/8th of a revolution of slip on the front wheels. Have a look at this A3 the rear is squatting on launch before the front looses traction. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbmenMq7jWU

I'd rather pay for a recommended alignment specialist to carry out the works and insist on a before and after printout of the geometry. Incorrect alignment can destroy how the car drives as well as ruin tyres and stress components.

If you follow tyre reviews on youtube or his website he actually runs Premium Summers in summer and All Seasons in winter. His thoughts are that is the "Optimal" setup for 95% of the UK. Personally I did the Summer and Winter swap for around 15 years but now find premium All Seasons have reached the level of performance that I'm happy to run with all year. But I understand what dale is doing.

Detailed across three pages of the manual. Standard on higher spec 4x4's. Optional on lower specs.

I have Cross Climate on our Octavia, Cross Climate+ on our Berlingo Van and Cross Climate 2 on the Yeti. The one area where I thought the Cross Climate and Cross Climate+ was just average was on snow and Ice. So much so I went with Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons on our other Octavia. (I live near to and drive through the Peak District. I was all set to buy another set of Goodyear's until I saw this years reviews and the Snow performance on the CC2's has been drastically improved, now beating the Vector 4 Season Gen3's and even the premium winter tyre on test for snow traction. Time will tell, I'll find out in the next few weeks.

I paid £460 with £50 cashback offer from Michelin from my local indy. 225/50x17 98V

Cross Climate 2's seem to be winning most of the "All season" tests. Fitted a set a few weeks ago.