Felicia 1.4-16v engine transplant

[TeflonTom]

one of these beauties has fallen into my hands, it's all complete and it's got a recon cylinder head on plus new belts and water pump etc

[TeflonTom]

i had a rummage around all the **** knocking about in my garage and found one of these

ignore the one on the right, that's from a 6n polo 8v

half hour with a hacksaw turned it into this

it's a no go i'm afraid, it wont clear the timing belt by a knats tit, are fettling it down further is only going to weaken it dramatically

[TeflonTom]

here goes:O

broke out autocad and make some quick measurements etc and came up with this

made up a cardboard prototype scale size to check it all goes in ok

all due to be laser cut from 12mm steel plate early next week some time

[TeflonTom]

oh i forgot to mention, the engine came with a wiring loom and the ecu too

don't try this at home.

i spent a few hours stripping down the ecu loom and comparing it to a felicia 1.6 loom which i had lying about. it's all good news... apart from a few pins on the ecu relating to aircon (the donor car had aircon) everything is wired up exactly the same.... it's uncanny, all the sensors are identical but some are in sightly different places..

the only additional actuator that the 16v engine has over the 1.6 aee 8v is an egr valve mounted on the side of the exhaust manifold

i can graft in this extra plug into the standard felicia loom, move the wiring to the throttle body slightly, and the terminal for the oil pressure switch is the opposite end to the 1.6 and job done.... i think:O

[TeflonTom]

[TeflonTom]

ok more on this... if your car is a 1300cc model you will need to obtain a few bits from a 1.6 felicia.

1. felicia 1.6 fuel injection loom (to be modified)

2. ecu mounting bracket and ignition coil (same bracket)

3. 1.6 radiator and radiator fan cowling & coolant hoses

4. right hand main engine bearer bracket from 1.6 (same as diesel model too)

5. wiring bracket for knock sensor and lambda probe

6. short loom from knock sensor to wiring bracket

7. 1.6 exhaust downpipe and cat ( you can re-use your 1300cc lambda probe)

8. intermediate plate from between the engine and gearbox

9. 1.6 flywheel and clutch

10. 1.6 or diesel rear gearbox mount..

however if your car is a 1.6 you will have all of the bits you need, i bought all of these bits of a breaker for £45

in addition you will need a 800mm 6 rib poly v belt for the alternator (assuming you aren't using power steering or aircon), plus 2x 70cm lengths of 6mm rubber fuel hose

[TeflonTom]

right hand main engine bearer bracket with rubber mounting, attached loosely to the custom mounting documented earlier.. need to find some old bits of broken timing belt covers and cut and glue them on to fill up the remaining holes

[TeflonTom]

knock sensor (top)/ lambda sensor wiring bracket attaches to the thermostat cover like so... then the small section of loom from the knock sensor (seen under bracket) joins to this and slides into bracket...

[TeflonTom]

16v ecu is fits straight into 1.6 ecu bracket, ignition coil sits underneath ecu too, notice the throttle body wiring has been sucessfully relocated, and egr valve plug (left of picture behind red vacuum hose) is grafted into place....

the egr plug was chopped from the 16v polo loom, black wire with white tracer goes to switched live via loom, purple wire goes to ecu pin 5... moving thorttle wiring and oil pressure switch was a simple case of untaping the loom and moving it to appropriate place then re-taping it all back up

[TeflonTom]

felicia 1.6 belhouse adaptor plate goes on first

[TeflonTom]

then felicia 1.6 flywheel goes on... 60nM + 90deg

home-made flywheel locking tool

[TeflonTom]

it's getting dark now so i've adjourned for the day...engine is now in, fits perfectly, like it was made for the job, still need to connect up the gear linkage and exhaust.. hopefully should have it running tomorrow

[TeflonTom]

ok i decided to use the exhaust downpipe that came with the donor engine because it has 50mm tubing rather than the felicia downpipe which is 42mm, the polo pipe is very very similar to the felicia one

next cut off roughly 5cm from the downpipe

now cut off roughly 16cm from the standard centre section (cat is still attached)

then join them up using a 50-42 reducer sleeve like this

[TeflonTom]

radiator and fan/cowling from 1600 felicia

it is necessary to move the radiator slightly towards the left hand side of the car by about 3cm or so because the fan cowling fouls on the egr valve. i made up a pair of little bodge brackets from the stuff i had lying about.

also the fan switch wiring needs to be extended approx 30cm

Edited 1 September, 2009 by TeflonTom

[TeflonTom]

some more shots

notice the home made timing belt cover:O

[TeflonTom]

the 16v lump is actually shorter than the skoda one i believe?? the lowest part of the sump is roughly the same height off the ground as the gearbox, but remember the exhuast downpipe sits in that gap between the sump and gearbox too so that will be a bit lower.

[TeflonTom]

just thought i'd add a few footnotes to this if anybody wants to try it...

-it's far easier to reach in to certain components if the bonnet is removed

- the engine/gearbox assembly needs to be removed and refitted by lowering it out of the bottom so it does need to be up nice and high on axle stands

- to get enough clearance to fit the radiator in place you need to temporarily remove the starter motor

-make sure you dont pull out the driveshafts before draining the gearbox oil out, and also it is quite tricky to refill the gearbox due to the limited space to work in down the back so i recommend buying a small syphon pump, i got one for £6 off ebay

- the bellhouse adaptor plate is bolted to the block BEFORE the flywheel goes on

- the anti roll bar goes on before the gear linkage and exhaust downpipe

- i removed the front grill for better access and this needs to go back on before the radiator goes in becuase 2 of the mounting bolts are behind the radiator

- remember to change the main engine bearer whilst the engine is out and swap over the ecu bracket at the same time whilst you can stand inside the engine bay for better access

- the terminal on the chassis earth strap on the right hand side(drivers side - rhd) needs to be drilled or opened out to 10mm from 8mm. i used a spare bolt hole above the base of the dipstick tube, it is fairly tight to be honest and it might be worth the expense of £3.99 from halfords for a 45cm earth strap

-the throttle body top elbow/intake tube from the 1600 does not fit the 16v engine because it has a larger bore throttle body (62mm), so for the time being i've opted for a universal cone filter off ebay for a tenner till i can find a proper 16v airbox, the 16v airbox sits ontop of the intake mainifold.. i'm so annoyed with myself because the donor car had one but i left it behind

-the 16v alternator has a different plug for the sense cable, chop it off and graft in a new plug from a gash loom

- the 1600 felicia radiator fan has a different wiring plug, so again that's just a cut and shut from the using the 1600 plug

- alternator drive belts and fairly difficult to find in the required length so i've decided to take off the spring loaded tensioner mechanism(my donor engine had aircon and pas) and use the manual belt tensioner from a non-pas 1.6 polo/felicia

- 2x pieces of 8mm fuel hose is needed, when facing the car left is return, right is supply

-the standard 1300 brake servo hose can be re-used as is, but it is tricky to put in, it goes in the centre of the intake manifold underneath, i recommend installing this before putting the driveshafts in for better access

-care must be taken to keep the lambda probe lead away from the clutch cable, re-use some of the plastic stand-offs of use cable ties

-the 1300 clutch cable is ok to re-use

[TeflonTom]

[TeflonTom]

took a bit of a gamble and bought in a 1.6 felicia throttle cable. it's fits on perfectly, so that's job done...

used a piece of the ducting from the standard airbox to join my £10 ebay cone filter on.

ok to match the immo unit to the ecu, it's... select, immo 25, adaption 10, channel 00, read then write, key off then on

throttle adaption is, select, engine 01, basic settings 04, channel 01, go

egr valve. select engine 01, basic settings 04, channel 74, go

[TeflonTom]

polo 16v airbox and original equipment strut brace fitted. note: strut brace is assymetrical and the 'bar' is offset slightly, the strut brace needs to be fitted back to front with the bar nearest the heater box

[TeflonTom]

Obtained a spare cylinder head from a breakers yard.. included the rocker cover, intake manifold, fuel rail, injectors and throttle body

[TeflonTom]

holy thread bump :wonder:

i've been tinkering again!

[TeflonTom]

1.6 -16v upgrade, day 1 :wonder:

right lads, this is a 1.6 16v 125bhp plolo gti engine, avy engine code, quite a few interesting things about these engines, the have variable valve timing, and it's got a water-to-oil cooler on the front, also there is a crank sensor which the early 16v engines don't have

first thing i did was strip off all the hoses and wiring, took off the flywheel and clutch so i could put it on the engine stand, as you can see it is looking pretty rough, it's been sat in the back of a rusty old van in a breakers yard for about 2 years

Edited 26 February, 2010 by TeflonTom

[TeflonTom]

1.6 -16v upgrade, day 1 :wonder:

quick look inside the timin belt covers, again looks like it's been in a pond!!

took all that lot off, it's starting to look a lot more familiar now

[TeflonTom]

1.6 -16v upgrade, day 1 :wonder:

removed oil filter and cooler, crank pulley and water pump.... stuffed some paper towels into the oil chamber to prevent stuff going in, then went over the block with a shaft mounted wire wheel in a power drill to get rid of the surface rust and flaking paint