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Felicia 1.4-16v engine transplant


TeflonTom

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another quick update, i've taken the sump off today due to an exhaust clearance issue, the plan is to replace it with a steel sump off an aee engine

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also another issue it the rear crankshaft oil seal housing fouling on the bellhouse adaptor plate, so i whipped that off with a view to modifying it to fit and promptly went and cracked the casting wilst trying to remove the crank sensor. so i bought a new oil seal and housing from a 1.6 aee engine, which fits on (seen in pic above) without needing any modifications to it whilst fitting the felicia 1.6 bellhouse adaptor plate... it' also worth noting that there is no trigger ring or crank sensor on this aee rear oil seal

seen above with alloy sump temporarily refitted to prevent stuff from going into the crankcase

Edited by TeflonTom
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right geezers, i've been very busy at work.. sorry...

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wen't to scrapyard this afternoon, ironically i was looking for something else and i stumbled upon a felicia estate glx 1.6 which was fresh in on the heap, so ii spent 5 minuites taking out the fuel injection loom.. paid £5 for it... bargain...

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trial fitting of the oe felicia loom on the engine, i knew this would need doing because i had to do the same last time, throttle body is on the opposite end of the intake manifold on the 1.6 aee felicia engine... everything else plugs up ok... the polo gti intake manifold does not have provision for an egr valve so i don't need to modify this loom to add in an additional connector like before

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stripped off the electrical insulating tape untill the throttle body connector could be plugged into the throttle body, the plug needs to be on this side of the throttle body (shown above in pic) it's not obvious why yet, but it will be revealed later on in this thread...

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my plans to arrange the engine mounting differently were canned because of clearance issues. decided to get another set of the custom jobbies laser cut as before, i have however altered the design ever so slightly... again this is 12mm thick mild steel which is massively over-engineered for this application but at least it will have a lot of strength :giggle:

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trial fitting before welding, fits even better than the last one i made, plenty of clearance for the timing belt/idler too....

on another note, i think i forgot to mention the water pump.. i had to use the water pump from the 1.4 16v (afh) because it has a wider timing belt sprocket to match the 25mm wide timing belt from the afh...

the next thing to sort out after welding the bracket together is the timing belt covers, i think i can use the ones off a afh engine from a seat ibiza and just cut a little slot in them to let the mounting stick out... the ibiza 6k does not have an engine mounting on the timing belt end of the engine block so it has different timing belt covers to the afh polo engine.. i'll have to try and find some or buy some from the dealer to see if it will work

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there's only about a 2mm gap between the downpipe and the alloy sump, i'm going to fit an early steel sump off the aee engine and this should give me a lot more clearance :thumbup:

also this manifold has a union for an egr valve which i am going to hack off and weld up the hole..

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steel sump from 1.6 8v (aee) engine, gave it a quick lick of paint because there was a bit of surface rust on there... fit's perfectly onto the engine with no issues at all, all the bolt holes line up etc.. there is now a good 20mm of clearance for the exhaust downpipe :thumbup:

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  • 2 weeks later...

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i got some timing belt covers from a seat ibiza 1.4 16v (also with AFH engine code), although the engine code is the same in the seat ibiza version, the belt covers are different in this car becuase the ibiza has no engine mounting on the timing belt end of the engine. i cut a hole in the lower section of the cover to let my custom mount stick through.. good times :thumbup:

it's certainly a lot neater than the last one i made :giggle: there is still an inner cover missing that i need to put on first before the timing belt etc, unfortunately it's on back order at the dealer

still in need of 2 parts to finish this off

1. felicia 1.6 petrol flywheel

2. alternator

i've decided to freshen up the gearbox a little too, going to steam clean it, and replace all the oil seals, and fit a new clutch release sleeve.. and put a new mounting into the end casing whilst it's all out :wonder:

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going to use a bog standard 1.3 mpi skoda gearbox, which has the 4.11:1 final drive.. i was really afraid of the skoda boxes at first, but i've been giving this one death and it hasn't even broken into a sweat yet, the standard felicia 1.6 clutch is holding up very well too

had the pickup on a weighbridge and it is just under 949Kg, which is considerably lighter than a polo... fabia vrs weights about 1300Kg

i'm aiming for around 130bhp which isn't too unrealistic... going to use a felicia pickup diesel exhuast system which is exactly the same as the petrol one except it has bigger tubing 50mm instead of 42mm

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  • 3 weeks later...

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i cut the joiner off the de-cat pipe that came with the manifold and welded it into a 2" bore universal stainless 200 cell cat, and welded a pipe in the other end to join up to the rest of the exhaust system...

still waiting for the inner timing belt cover on back order at the tps :wonder:

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  • 1 month later...
  • 5 weeks later...

as an experiment i'm using the polo gti fuel injectors which are 120cc/min, instead of the afh injectors which are 100cc/min.. the adaptive/closed loop seems to be handling it fairly well but the occasionally runs a bit rough on idle, ii may be able to eek this out by fiddling wiith the igntion timing a little, going to raise the idle speed too

and above all else, i though the 1.4-16v engine was nippy enough, but now it's absolutely brutal!! you can definitely feel the extra torque from having a longer stroke crank.

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  • 2 weeks later...

right... after trials with the gti blue injectors i've decided to swap back to the original 1.4 AFH injectors for now, it seemed to run ok like it though, just a tiny bit rich, the closed loop system appears to be able to handle it ok..

also my ignition timing was miles out, so that's all adjusted now.. still running a little bit rough due to a dirty throttle position sensor (inside throttle body) but i've got a couple of spares to try out

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just to re-cap for those who might not have read the entire thread...

2001 1.6-16v polo gti bottom end (avy engine code) with 1997 1.4-16v cylinder head (afh engine code).. flywheel, clutch and right hand bearer, fuel injection loom(modified to suit) from 1.6 8v felicia.. gearbox and driveshafts from 1300 mpi felicia..... ecu from 1997 1.4-16v polo (afh)

custom made right hand engine mounting

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Edited by TeflonTom
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  • 3 weeks later...

i've made a slight change to the induction setup.. and it has completely transformed the way it drives, it feels a lot perkier than before

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1.6 felicia standard airbox, with hot air pipe fom manifold and cold air feed from bumper, whoever said these standard oem filters were restrictive eh?

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  • 2 months later...

it is enormous fun to drive with that amount of torque especially when you consider it has rediculously short gearing too as i'm using a 1300mpi box with a 4.11:1 final drive, even in 5th gear it will pull from 70 to 100 quicker than my vr6 does, after which it gets close to the rev limiter so you can feel it holding back..

no i'm not using the vvt system, the afh cylinder head doesn't have provision for it with it's classic type overhead lifters rather than the roller rockers you get on the gti cylinder head..

the dip in torque you mention also has a corresponding ignition retard/misfire which is very noticeable (to me anyway) just by driving it, it's purely a fueling issue as can be seen on the afr graph(not shown above), i would imagine it's something to do with using the polo gti intake manifold and it's related port dynamics, the gti intake is designed for use with variable valve timing so I guess that's where the shift point would start to kick in so i think there is some weird reversion/stalling going on in the intake tract somewhere.. i hate to say it but i think the intake runners/plenum are too large and i may swap it back to the standard multi-part afh intake manifold with the smaller ports to get the gas speed back up lower in the rev range and sacrifice a bit of top end power...

also i'm toying with the idea of using either my emerald k3 system on there which is currently gathering dust, or using one of those silly japanese greddy emanage piggyback units on there to straighten out the fueling, i've found from experimenting that the 2500rpm ish dip can be eliminated by altering the base ignition timing at the dizzy, but this has negative and positive effects elsewhere in the rev range, the dyno plot taken in the above graph was done with the base timing set to 5 degrees BTDC which give the best all round compromise for now, but if the base timing is set at 9 degrees BTDC it deffo feels a lot stronger higher up at 4k+ revs with the downside that the 2.5k dip is more pronounced and i get pinking at mid/heavy loads upto about 3k. so it's swings and roundabouts for now :wonder: .... i guess this is way above most peoples heads but i'm sure you will understand it jimbo..

p.s anybody that says the bog standard felicia air filter is restrictive is wrong.. there was spiders and leaves and all sorts of crud in my airbox today :rofl:

Edited by TeflonTom
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next on my list of stuff to do is

1. baffled sump (see link in my signature for details)

2. decat

3. remove centre exhaust silencer

4. fit oil catch tank & crankcase breather modifications

5. rework the power robbing induction pipework

6. oil cooler

plus anything else sensible that anybody can suggest

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ISTR Luminition and Piranha ignition systems from back in the day using the dissie as a crank position sensor.

And, of course, the camshaft turns at half engine speed, so a cam angle sensor is timed right for sequential ignition (and hence fuelling) given an appropriate EMS.

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And, of course, the camshaft turns at half engine speed, so a cam angle sensor is timed right for sequential ignition (and hence fuelling) given an appropriate EMS.

yes that's true ken, but using the dizzy as a trigger doesn't tell the ecu which cylinder is at TDC... all you would get is a 'pulse' from the hall effect switch every 1/ 2 turn of the engine and nothing that relates it to which cylinder is at TDC

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