Jump to content

00301 - ABS Return Flow Pump (V39)


Runner

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have just had the same problem with the ABS light remainig on......my local garage has also told me the error codes mean I need a new ABS pump, Found this thread and have checked the fuse......at first glance it didn`t appear blown as advised in earlier posts, I put slight pressure on the middle of the fuse and hey presto it snapped. I have ordered one from my local dealer, can anyone please tell me......

Do I have to disconnect the battery to replace this fuse?........If so do I just disconnect the live terminal.

 

Many Thanks

Lavinia

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

I have just had the same problem with the ABS light remainig on......my local garage has also told me the error codes mean I need a new ABS pump, Found this thread and have checked the fuse......at first glance it didn`t appear blown as advised in earlier posts, I put slight pressure on the middle of the fuse and hey presto it snapped. I have ordered one from my local dealer, can anyone please tell me......

Do I have to disconnect the battery to replace this fuse?........If so do I just disconnect the live terminal.

 

Many Thanks

Lavinia

 

No need to disconnect in my opinion.  I know I didn't.

 

Fancy joining freedom scheme as a thanks for this post?  :)  It has saved you a lot more than £12 not buying an ABS pump. ;)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A Massive thank you to all you knowledgeable people on this wonderful site, I changed the fuse and wondered why after driving 15 miles back home the ABS light was still on. So On arriving back home I decided to have another look.......guess what?.....I hadnt tightened the nuts fully!! I put that right and hey presto the light has gone off.......This Lady OAP is delighted. Such an easy job yet the garage chose to overlook it.

 

Yes devonutopia, I will be looking into joining Freedom Scheme when I have more of a clue what its about, i want to be a part of this great club.

 

Thanks again

Lavinia x

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Denis,

You wonderful guys gave me the courage, and now the enthusiasm to have a go in the future if I have any probs.

I would have had to resign myself to giving up my beloved car as £1000 for repair would be impossible to find.

I have just been back to my local garage to let them know I had fixed the problem for £3.50 (they offered me a job!! lol) and they were genuinely shocked.

They were unaware of the fuses above the battery!?! So I was able to educate them, for other Skoda owners in the future.

I will definitely be joining the Freedom Scheme.

Thank you so very much

Lavinia x

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

After my local mechanic was convinced that the abs return flow pump needed changing, I came on here and gave the fuse a go, I changed the cracked fuse and wahey the lights are now gone, saved me a few hundred top stuff thanks a lot!! PS skoda birmingham customer service suck!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perfect. This was just the information I needed. Gotta love the Internet and it's contributers :love:

40 amp fuse...hairline crack....sometimes hard to see. Bought a pack of 'ten' online for £3.50p !!!!!!!!!!!!:-) 

 

From where did you order it? I had no luck on eBay. Only one dealer in US, which could take a month to arrive).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Same fault code read using VAG-COM, same solution for Fabia 1.4 16V 2000 W reg! Awesome tips.

Had been quoted ~£500 for ABS Hydraulic Pump and ~£500 for Control Unit and ~£150 for labour by two Skoda dealers.

Also this has possibly resolved a problem with the alarm going off at random - fingers crossed! (When I reconnected the battery with this new fuse in place it triggered the alarm but since then (<1 day) it has not given a false alarm, whereas usually this would be several times a day.)

Got the replacement 40A strip fuse (for position 6 in battery fuse / junction box) from VW dealer (as used on Mk IV Golf) - cost = £2.50!

Pics below.

I really want to thank you (and that site), you saved my life and my money.

Because your explanation and your pictures about problem i realized i have the same problem and i fixed it less than 1$.

Thank you!

Edited by amir456
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Ah ha.. Yes they do just go for no reason sometimes, I think it's just the constant heating and cooling cycles the engine bay goes through makes them expand and contract..

And the fact that they seem to be made of the same crap aluminium alloy that BT used for flown cables to domestic premises in the 1970s - look at it the wrong way and it crystalises. As you may guess, mine just went @ 56,000, and it was not helped by the fact that a couple of years back the battery cover came back from the main dealer after a full service with broken hinges - I hadn't got the time to deal with that then and so the top has been flapping about ever since -  and its had 2 or 3 main dealer services since then and nobody's even mentioned it to me and its over £300 a pop for a service. (Thinks, that's Local government standards of service, isn't it ?) Method in their madness ? Shame on me for being so cynical.

 

So I'm running about at the moment with both ABS and ESP/TCS lights on all the time and no ABS/TCS/ESP and the fault code 0031 - ABS Return Flow Pump (V39) 35-00- - showing on VCDS. And aren't I fortunate, wasn't it as from this year that MOT test became sensitive to warning lamps in the binnacle and for it to go this week when the autumn storms have just started in London ( Remind me to renew the subscription on my lucky ****** account with the almighty). Clearing the error codes with VCDS does extinguish the warning lamps, but that only lasts whilst the car is doing under 10kph. Once you go over, the lights go back on again.  I suppose I could do the naughty and pull the the ABS control unit fuse (No 25) from the main fusebox on the RHS dash.

 

Anybody know where I can source these on line ?

 

I note there are some other 40 amp links in the battery panel, anybody know what function they serve ? I just wondering if any of these can, pro temp be swapped, without serious loss of function ?

 

Nice that VAG design in a fault like this which can't be detected by the diagnostics. Haven't they heard of circuit breakers ?

 

I'm also wondering whether a battery on the way out may contribute to blowing fuses - I note that some of the VCDS output measurements relate to voltage on the ABS pump inlet and outlet, expressed as the variable Vbat !  The battery on mine is now five years old and I think a cell on it has been on the way out for the last year - the only reason it kept going so long is that I bought a battery with an AH capacity near the top of the acceptable range for the car (66Ah). The voltage with ignition off is about 12.5, with ignition on it goes down to 12.1-12.3 and on cranking it just about reaches 10 volts. With the engine running it gets 13.5.

 

Nick

Edited by Clunkclick
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fuse replaced with item obtained from local VW garage's parts contractor @£2.96 (Ex. VAT).

 

ABS/TCS/ESP lights extinguished within 20 seconds of the repaired vehicle moving.

 

But had to clear the fault code in the EMC using VCDS and it was a bit resistant/deaf, so I had to put the command in twice before it cleared.

 

Took it for a run afterwards, all seems fine.

 

The fault on the original fuse looked to me as if it was a fatigue crack. There were no signs of electrical overload. But there was slight burning/bluing each side of the crack were the current had jumped the air gap.

 

If my luck holds, it only remains for me to get the dealer to fix these two enduring electrical faults (Which seem to have been with the car since 2004/2005) and, you never know, I might have a clear board when I do a scan :-

 

Address 08: Auto HVAC        Labels: 6Q0-820-045.lbl

   Part No: 6Y0 820 045

   Component: Klimaanlage        X0830 

   VCID: F2E13741BE8E548E127-5120

 

4 Faults Found:

01596 - Motor for Outside/Recirculated Air Flap (V154)

            30-00 - Open or Short to Plus

01596 - Motor for Outside/Recirculated Air Flap (V154)

            41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent

01596 - Motor for Outside/Recirculated Air Flap (V154)

            29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01596 - Motor for Outside/Recirculated Air Flap (V154)

            28-10 - Short to Plus - Intermittent

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 09: Cent. Elect.        Labels: 6Qx-937-049-C.lbl

   Part No: 6Q1 937 049 C

   Component: 00 BN-SG.           1S33 

   Coding: 17418

   Shop #: WSC 25040 

   VCID: 3B7F5A65294455C6811-5120

 

1 Fault Found:

01054 - Power Supply Relay; Terminal 30 (J317)

            28-00 - Short to Plus

 

 

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • 4 months later...

Thank you so much for this forum. Another beneficiary of the information given

Took my car in with the abs warning light and quoted £700 for a new pump. I was having to consider scrapping the car because of this. Luckily, found your forum and it was like the pictures had been taken of my car!

£3.50 for a new fuse and a drive of 4 foot - problem sorted.

However, must say I am disappointed with the local skoda dealership from whom I bought the car from new back in 2004 and they have undertaken all services and work since. How can it be that a problem with it's solution identified and openly available on the internet for years can be found by a car numpty like me in minutes, but is not known about by my local skoda dealer?

Will definitely join freedom

Thank you again

.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you so much for this forum. Another beneficiary of the information given

Took my car in with the abs warning light and quoted £700 for a new pump. I was having to consider scrapping the car because of this. Luckily, found your forum and it was like the pictures had been taken of my car!

£3.50 for a new fuse and a drive of 4 foot - problem sorted.

However, must say I am disappointed with the local skoda dealership from whom I bought the car from new back in 2004 and they have undertaken all services and work since. How can it be that a problem with it's solution identified and openly available on the internet for years can be found by a car numpty like me in minutes, but is not known about by my local skoda dealer?

Will definitely join freedom

Thank you again

 

You're welcome! :thumbup:

 

and its good the forum is benefitting long term by getting in freedom members as a result of guides like this one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm by absolutely no means familiar with vehicle terminology or technology over and above the basics (and yes I do know how to put petrol in, check oil and water etc), but my ABS light came on about 4 weeks ago.  As the car was due an MOT this month I mentioned it to them when I dropped the car off.  I was told it was probably a sensor and that they would check it out.  On collecting my car I was told they had run the diagnostics and an ABS pump was required and that someone would call me later to let me know the cost and when they could do the work.  Thinking I would pre-empt any inflation busting quotes I had a look online to see roughly the cost of this pump.  I have browsed through this website previously and came back on after noticing there were a sizeable number of comments on this subject and nearly fainted when I saw how much this work could potentially cost me.  However, on having a good old read through I thought this 40a strip fuse has got to be worth getting my hands dirty for, so got under the bonnet and got the battery top off (which I didn't know existed) and lo and behold there was the cracked 6th fuse, can't tell you how pleased I was with myself.  I have been to the Skoda dealership who didn't stock this fuse (and what's more didn't know what it was) but they've ordered one for me for the princely sum of £2.99 + VAT.  I have spoken to the garage just around the corner who wanted me to book my car in for the work and believe I saw a roll of the eyes that I had got this information from the internet and it was basically poo poo'd as unlikely to be the cause.  They have offered to fit this little fuse free of charge on my behalf when I pick it up on Saturday morning and re-run the diagnostics check and said they will clear the code if it proves not to be the pump.  Should I let them do it....does this code need clearing???  I also mentioned to them that since having two new front tyres for the MOT there is now a slight pull to the left when driving.  Apparently balancing is...but tracking isn't...part of the process, and they said they can do the tracking for me.  Is this something else to dip into the bottomless pit for, even though it wasn't happening beforehand?  How much should tracking cost?

 

I have everything crossed that this fuse when it arrives is going to put paid to the eye rolling and my little car's dash is warning light free.  I very much want to thank all those who have raised this subject and those who have given invaluable advice on it...I could have been (and still praying will not be) in for a very expensive and unnecessary repair.  I'll post the results after the fuse is fitted!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As per TheEnt's post a little above yours, the new fuse should put the fault light out, but only after the car has been driven a few yards (there may still be a record of the fault in the system, but it doesn't need clearing in my opinion, as long as the fault light extinguishes). I would be tempted to do that little drive yourself, as the joy and relief when the ABS light goes out will be all the more satisfying for being seen first-hand. There shouldn't be any need for re-running any diagnostics checks, but if they are offering to do that for free, you may as well let them.

 

Tracking shouldn't be affected by a tyre change as far as I know; that pull needs diagnosing really. First thing to check is that there is equal pressure in both new tyres.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well to say I am marginally ecstatic is an understatement.  Collected the little 40a strip fuse from the Skoda dealer, drove round to the garage who popped out the old fuse in two halves, fitted the new one for me, I drove the car literally about 50 yards and hey presto out went the lights!!  The mechanic and garage owner, despite all their previous scepticisms, were really surprised and said I had taught them something new today.  But I can't take any credit whatsoever (apart from reading through all previous comments her and managing to actually find where the fuse was located on my own!).  What a fabulous site this is :) :) :)  Tracking is being sorted next week...thanks sooooooooo much everyone x

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.