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Octavia Alternator Removal


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#1 midgebuster

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 11:37

I hope this is of some use to somebody, but I have just had my alternator fail on my 160,000 TDI Octavia. I was just pulling on to the carpark at a customers, when there was a clunk (the freewheel pulley had seized and come off!) and the battery light came on, and steering got heavy. Anyway, after much searching to locate a replacement alternator, (they can't get them at Halfords, and Skoda want £270! even recon ones are £170.) I had to remove the old one. The way I did it was to undo the earth lead on the battery first, remove the engine cover, then undo the power steering pump and the bracket which holds the rigid pipe (makes it more moveable) to move it out of the way, undo the tensioner, removing the pulley first (easy job, just 3 x 6mm allen bolts). I pulled the belt out of the way from underneath, having first removed the undertray, and disconnected the alternator wiring. I undid the radiator fan, so it would give me more clearance, and having undone all the bolts for the alternator, was able to squeeze the alternator up through the gap, bending the radiator hose out of the way. This all sounds simple, but as it was trial and error, it took me about an hour. I think you could do it easier by removing the a/c pump and dropping the alt out through the bottom, but I thought it looked trickier to locate the bolts.
I am still to put the new one back in, so if I find any problems I will add to this thread

Cheers
Neil

#2 KenONeill

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 12:22

WARNING

If you're thinking about removing the air con pump, make sure you don't need to move it more than the reach of any flexi pipes attached to it. If you open the air con circuit, you'll need to have the system regassed.

#3 midgebuster

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 09:12

Managed to get it back together last night (mostly). The alternator I was given did not want to go straight in, as the gap between the mountings on the alt were smaller than the distance on the engine, so I had to use a socket and G Clamp to pull the threaded parts through the casting on the alt, after that it went on fine. It took me ages to work out what to do with the belt and tensioner, so another visit to the Briskoda website was called for, which told me that I could move the tensioner with a 19mm spanner, so with a bit of tube on the end of the spanner, and the belt on all the pulleys except the a/c one, which was nearest to me underneath, I pulled the tensioner load off and slipped the belt over the last pulley, no bother. One tip I can give is to protect the radiator when your are getting the alt in place, as the fins will take a bashing if you don't, assuming like me you have removed the o/s fan.
If you have the time, it is definitely worth doing the job yourself, given the cost, it is fairly straight forward, just allow plenty of time, and get some thin gloves, as the plastics cut your hands to hell when your spannering the bolts.
All I have to do tonight is get the covers back on, and fingers crossed, start it!
Hope this helps
Neil

#4 Talisman

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 15:29

Managed to get it back together last night (mostly). The alternator I was given did not want to go straight in, as the gap between the mountings on the alt were smaller than the distance on the engine, so I had to use a socket and G Clamp to pull the threaded parts through the casting on the alt, after that it went on fine. It took me ages to work out what to do with the belt and tensioner, so another visit to the Briskoda website was called for, which told me that I could move the tensioner with a 19mm spanner, so with a bit of tube on the end of the spanner, and the belt on all the pulleys except the a/c one, which was nearest to me underneath, I pulled the tensioner load off and slipped the belt over the last pulley, no bother. One tip I can give is to protect the radiator when your are getting the alt in place, as the fins will take a bashing if you don't, assuming like me you have removed the o/s fan.
If you have the time, it is definitely worth doing the job yourself, given the cost, it is fairly straight forward, just allow plenty of time, and get some thin gloves, as the plastics cut your hands to hell when your spannering the bolts.
All I have to do tonight is get the covers back on, and fingers crossed, start it!
Hope this helps
Neil


Bump:
Hi guys. Can anyone tell me how many bolts secure the alternator. I removed the two long 13mm bolts as per the Haynes manual - one top and one bottom, but it doesn't want to move. The v-belt and tensioner are already removed. The twin point electrical connector is removed, as is the battery cable and nut. What have I missed, that is preventing me from removing the alternator?

#5 Interphase

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 15:46

The bushes are very tight, so you might need to lever it off. The bracket mouldings can be fragile so try to pull it straight. When it's out I'd recommend you stand it on its side on a bench, put a long socket on the outside over the bush, put the bolt through the middle and then tighten it to pull the bush out slightly; it'll go back on a lot easier that way.

#6 Talisman

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 17:40

Interphase: Many thanks :thumbup: Your advice was totally correct, it was just being held by an interference fit via the spacers. It came of easy enough on an SDI - I just did the following.

1. Disconnect battery earth - 10mm nut.
2. Remove top engine cover - 2 * 10mm recessed nuts, so 1/4" drive 10mm socket required.
3. Using a gear wrench serpentine belt tool, (so much easier than a long 16mm 0 degree-offset ring spanner) I removed the tension from the v-belt tensioner, and secured it under tension with a 4mm Allen key (a small nail would also be fine.)
4. I then removed the three 13mm bolts securing the v-belt tensioner ( easy to access with a 13mm ratchet spanner or combination or socket) and removed tensioner from top of engine - it comes up easy with loads of room!
5. Removed the two long 13mm bolts securing the alternator (top and bottom and from the left side looking into the engine bay.)
6 Following interphase's advice, I then levered the alternator out, as it was now just being held by the tension from the spacers (see advice from interphase - above.)
7. Then turning the alternator so that I could see the back, I pulled out the two-pin connector - I undid the battery cable secured by a 13mm nut - I undid the cable securing nut with a 8mm 1/4 drive socket.
8. I then removed the alternator from the top of engine - it came up easily with loads of spare room.
9. Fitting was a reversal of the above, using a new v-belt. Don't be intimidated fitting a v-belt on an sdi - there are not many pulleys to worry about. Make sure the arrow on the belt faces the direction of rotation, and if you get confused remember that the belts grooves fit into grooved pulleys, and that the smooth back of the belt, fits against smooth idler pulleys.

Ps: You do not need to go under the car, and you do not need to remove the power steering pump - everything is done from the top down as described above.

Pps: I changed to a spare alternator because I heard my Pulley clutch going last night - at tickover it just goes pop, and your battery light comes on, and it starts screeching as you increase power demands - lights. demister etc.
The pulley had in fact disappeared completely and the tensioner ensures that the v-belt is driving the bare shaft. I hear that at higher rpm's the pop becomes a bang!

TTFN. :thumbup:

Edited by Talisman, 13 January 2011 - 17:46.





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