Jump to content

Octavia 1 - Replacing Door Latch Microswitch


Recommended Posts

No, not considering I just changed mine for £3.

Although I had to take the door apart to get to the latch mechanism to change the micro switch that operates the interior light. I can post instructions and some pic if anyone interested. The VW forums do not go into detail that well, as stripping down the Octavia door is not the same as a Passat and Golf. It is not a job for the faint hearted. Took me 2 hours. VW,AUDI must of been paid a large sum to make those locking mechanisms that complicated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's excellent. Thanks for taking the time to do this guide.

No worries thought it may be useful, something I had been meaning to do for a while. just getting it all together takes time.

Next time I go to a scrapyard I think I will be stripping out a few of these for spares, as to get hold of original micro switch's from dealers is impossible, and the copy one (burgess) is not quite as good, although it does the trick. It means messing about drilling the switch holes out , that's all.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well that was the exact code it had on mine. So I would say yes.

Hopefully with that error your door panel light is not working when door open and your interior light does not come on also.

Rgds

Mark.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm, maybe that code is a generic code for the drivers door module and mechanism?

What symptoms are you getting or is it an old code that needs clearing. I just cleared a number of codes that don't appear to be causing issues and have not come back since.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm, maybe that code is a generic code for the drivers door module and mechanism?

What symptoms are you getting or is it an old code that needs clearing. I just cleared a number of codes that don't appear to be causing issues and have not come back since.

Nope definetly a fault i've cleared it then re-created the issue a few times right away. Basically the drivers door doesn't open off the central locking remote all other doors do without issue, the same goes for when you're actually sat in the car pressing the lock unlock button, the drivers door lock just doesn't move which is of course the most annoying from my point of view!!!

The dash light to say the door is open comes on as does the interior light, not 100% sure about the "lights are on" buzz but will have to check this again - i recalled it working the last time i tried though.

Bit stumped because my issue seems different to all of the others i've looked at so far. The only thing that i do remember happening is when we had that really really bad bout of ice a few months back. There was a very loud twang/ping after i'd been driving for about 2 mins that came from the drivers side door, thats when the problem started and its just got gradually worse from there on in.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There was a very loud twang/ping after i'd been driving for about 2 mins that came from the drivers side door, thats when the problem started and its just got gradually worse from there on in.

This sounds like the cable to the Door latch. When you press the remote can you here the door latch on the drivers side trying to work?

I would definately follow the guide to getting the door panel off. Then you will see if either the exterior cable to door handle has snapped (common)

Exteriorlockhandle7.jpg

or the cable that is inside the door panel that runs from the mechanism to the chrome door latch.

EletcricMirrorPanelremoved.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This sounds like the cable to the Door latch. When you press the remote can you here the door latch on the drivers side trying to work?

I would definately follow the guide to getting the door panel off. Then you will see if either the exterior cable to door handle has snapped (common)

snip

or the cable that is inside the door panel that runs from the mechanism to the chrome door latch.

snip

Thanks for that bowders, based on what you've said it'd make more sense to be for it to be the exterior cable as i forgot to mention the handle sometimes gets stuck up an upward out position..... lets hope for good whether tomorrow! edit - is it easy enough to lay a new cable then or is it worth just taking it the garage?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

Okay, for anyone who has tried the 4th microswitch fix, can anyone post up a diagram/ pic of where the U-shaped clip fits in to the mechanism. It fell into my door when I over-loosened one of the retaining screws (See fig 19 in original post #6 above)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Thanks for the info guys. Most enlightening. Just aquired the no interior light story with mine. Baffled me when i couldn't find any switches on the car before i realised they must be in the door. On that note. Do you know if all doors have a switch, and are they independant, ie all work or none? I have an Octavia glxi 00 reg. Thanks again. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi Boys and girls.

Since I've gained so much information from this site I feel I owe it to you all to give you a bit back.

I have today (27th July 2010) replaced my drivers door lock assembly.

The symptoms I had were:

No interior light when drivers door opened.

No door safety light (the red and white one on the bottom right had side of the door as you look at it opened)

No "lights on alarm" when drivers door opened, with ignition off, lights on and door open.

It seems a common fault on all in the VAG range. Indeed when I went into a local Skoda dealership to see how much a new mechanism was the bloke new without even looking at the screen, as they sell a lot of them!! £110 plus VAT!

I bought a second hand lock mechanism from ebay, for £25. I then went to Maplin electronics shop and bought a microswitch. This one:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=34835&OrderCode=N95AQ

I tried the one with the metal hinge as I figured it might be more robust, however I couldn't make it fit, so used the one without. It looks similar to the original!

The holes don't quite line up, but instead of drilling it, I used a really strong glue to hold it in place. You need to look at the "cam" of the door lock to see where best to place it. Too far away and it won't make contact, too close and it'll smash the switch.

I followed the instructions from a Haynes manual, and looked on here. The only thing I would say is I didn't need to remove any of the electric window mechanism. Once released there was enough room (just) to get the lock mechanism out.

The whole job start to finish took me 3 hours.

I already had most of the tools, except the "splined socket" drives, needed to remove the mechanism from the door. I bought a set for £15 from Halfords, that fitted onto my existing half inch socket driver.

All in all I'd say it's not difficult if you're half mechanically minded, it's just a bit time consuming. Time will tell if glue was the right idea though!!!!!!

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers for the write up Bowders, just swapped the knackered one for one from another car. Took me 2 hours because a few problems, could probably do it in 30 mins now :giggle:

Now my puddle light works :thumbup: but the new one is a little bit more noisy than my old one. :doh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...
  • 2 months later...

The switch doesn't always fail with its contacts open. On mine it's failed closed so the car always thinks the driver's door is not fully shut. First I noticed was the interior light didn't turn off when I started the car. Additionally the remote locking would only unlock, not lock the car.

Different symptoms but the same cause.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

The switch doesn't always fail with its contacts open. On mine it's failed closed so the car always thinks the driver's door is not fully shut. First I noticed was the interior light didn't turn off when I started the car. Additionally the remote locking would only unlock, not lock the car.

Different symptoms but the same cause.

Does anyone still have the pictures for this guide..... i need to replace mine now ?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Nope definetly a fault i've cleared it then re-created the issue a few times right away. Basically the drivers door doesn't open off the central locking remote all other doors do without issue, the same goes for when you're actually sat in the car pressing the lock unlock button, the drivers door lock just doesn't move which is of course the most annoying from my point of view!!!

The dash light to say the door is open comes on as does the interior light, not 100% sure about the "lights are on" buzz but will have to check this again - i recalled it working the last time i tried though.

Bit stumped because my issue seems different to all of the others i've looked at so far. The only thing that i do remember happening is when we had that really really bad bout of ice a few months back. There was a very loud twang/ping after i'd been driving for about 2 mins that came from the drivers side door, thats when the problem started and its just got gradually worse from there on in.

It's a while ago since you posted, but mine has just got this exact fault and the same symptoms.

Only difference is mine seems temperamental. It works in the evenings, but not in the mornings (like me!).

I think it could be on it's way out.

Also, my "lights on" buzzer doesn't work, and I swear the puddle light doesn't work sometimes.

Does this sound like the micro-switch?

Did replacing the micro-switch fix your issue?

Many thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
It's a while ago since you posted, but mine has just got this exact fault and the same symptoms. Only difference is mine seems temperamental. It works in the evenings, but not in the mornings (like me!). I think it could be on it's way out. Also, my "lights on" buzzer doesn't work, and I swear the puddle light doesn't work sometimes. Does this sound like the micro-switch? Did replacing the micro-switch fix your issue? Many thanks.

OK, for anyone reading, today was lovely and sunny. I'd already prepped the car by removing the door innards a while back, so I just needed to get the lock assembly out.

After about an hour I had it out and was checking it over. The microswitch was working!

When inserting a tiny screwdriver to depress the microswitch, I could see that the switch is purely there to indicate to the car, when the door is open or not. The door open light was working, the fuel pump engaged, the interior light works.

Whats more, when the car is locked with the remote, the red door LED flashes when I've disconnected the lock assembly from the door wiring. It doesn't flash when the assembly is connected and the car is locked with the remote.

So now I have another problem. If the microswitch is not preventing the central locking from working on the drivers door, then could it be the door locking unit itself? There must be a PCB inside plus a motor.

I'm due to take a further look tomorrow to check the control unit on the window regulator for corrosion as posted by another member.

If there's nothing wrong there, then I guess I'll disassemble the lock unit and mess with it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.