Octavia 1 - Replacing Door Latch Microswitch

[mac11irl]

I got an ebay update today havjng ordered my replacement lock mech on thursday. Its been dispatched from god knows where china, expected delivery 25 - 40days

it was cheaper tham any of the uk or rurope suppluers as delivery to roi was mad on some suppliers.. more than the feckin lock mechanism

[mac11irl]

Well the chinese delivery man mustve been sprinting the whole way here! new lock mechanism arrived today

Looks right, and setting the latch to test the door pull and lock mechanisms as best you can off the door all seems to work smoothly

Just need to decide on least destructive way to unlock the bloody door or get the card off while locked at weekend...

Edited 22 July, 2015 by mac11irl

[Ambient7]

Bowders your a ledgend max respect , think I' ll just get a 2nd hand one though , car that is !  TBH the problem isn't too bad other than locking my keys in once .

[mac11irl]

Finally manged to get door card off at linchtime without breaking anything... the way the 2 screws are positioned at the bittom to be accessible even with the door closed is somewhat genius... its as if the designers thought about lock failure and a need to rip the door apart...

[mac11irl]

So... anyone got any tips on how to remove two pretty much rounded 3square bolts from lock mech? I have managed to release the door, went and bought a set of 3sq heads and proceded to nigh instantly round the f'ing heads....

[IAN_716]

Hi thanks for the guide Bowders1 ive just changed drivers harness and reg £30 from breakers and door lock complete from D2P autoparts £22 now need to source microswitch to repair original do you know anything about these ebay locks ive used if theyre trouble ill replace repaired one sooner rather than later.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

[smudge1]

Hi , I've just got the rear left door open light on the dash after putting the battery back on , after  tailgate change. In that change we threaded the original loom down the t gate and reconnected . Everything works OK . 

 

Now , previous to this I had the problem of the same door not unlocking and when I started the Tailgate change it was still locked and it was on my next thing to fix list. However and some time during the process , it unlocked itself and now the central locking system for all doors works OK !  EXCEPT this open door warning lamp on the dash and interior lamp is now on  .

 

So

1.  is it possible that its bad luck and its the door lock mechanism and micro switch ?

 

2. Does any one know which wires to short as a temp fix because ..

 

3. Does this warning lamp on the dash = MOT failure ?

 

 

Thanks in advance

[NiQ3]

Hello.

Cant i just disconnect the switch in the lock and install a regular door switch in the door instead? it would be much easier?

Like this one   http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-Universal-Car-Truck-Boat-Door-Jamb-Dome-Light-Hood-Flange-Mount-Pin-Switch-/400963658762

[IndianHancock]

No, not considering I just changed mine for £3.

Although I had to take the door apart to get to the latch mechanism to change the micro switch that operates the interior light. I can post instructions and some pic if anyone interested. The VW forums do not go into detail that well, as stripping down the Octavia door is not the same as a Passat and Golf. It is not a job for the faint hearted. Took me 2 hours. VW,AUDI must of been paid a large sum to make those locking mechanisms that complicated.

[YellowVrsToo]

Resurrecting this thread once again... Firstly may I thank Bowders1 for the excellent 'how to' description. The information available on this site never ceases to amaze me.

 

On my car (2002/3 1.9 TDI L&K estate) there are no problems with the central locking, it locks and unlocks using the remote, the red LED blinks when locked and so on, but the other things associated with knowing whether the door is open or not don't work (interior light, puddle light, 'lights left on' warning, indicator on the dash, etc.) Perhaps the central locking works because it always thinks the door is closed!

 

The fault reported by my VCDS is: 

01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386) 
            49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

 

Before I take the door apart AGAIN (had to repair the window lift mechanism earlier this year), I'd just like to check that the micro-switch is likely to be the culprit.

[mac11irl]

@YellowVrsToo

 

Highly likely...

[Ttaskmaster]

Yup - It was exactly thus on mine. Same faults, same cause.

In fact, I still haven't actually replaced it (new one sat ready in the door pocket, though) because a few moments of fiddling and oiling got it just about working again!

[YellowVrsToo]

Thanks guys. Looks like I'm taking the door apart, then!

 

[mac11irl]

Its a lot easier the second time..

[Shane8280]

Revival

Guys can anyone help.

I recently bought mk 1 superb and buzzer ain't working. Puddle lights work but interior light does not come on when I open driver door. Central locking works perfect. Am I having same problem or is there something else it could be. I know nothing about wires 

[YellowVrsToo]

On 31/10/2017 at 11:28, mac11irl said:

Its a lot easier the second time..

An update one year on: I didn’t need to strip the door in the end. I opened the door one day and the light came on, much to my surprise as it hadn’t been working for ages. I opened and closed the door a few times just to be sure I wasn’t seeing things and then it stopped working again. I sprayed the area with WD40 (it helped knowing where the micro switch was after reading this thread - thanks!) and to date it hasn’t failed again.

 

Now I have to fix the tailgate switch, same problem?

[mac11irl]

Very very likely its the same problem at the boot, if the symptoms are the same.

Glad you got the door going again without too much effort! 

[chrisalis]

Hi all...

Firstly, as most above have done .... thank you Bowders1 for the excellent 'how to' description'... and others for useful additions.

 

My poor 'old girl' is suffering.  (Oct Mk1 1.8T 260k and counting...)

 

The interior & courtesy lights were both intermittent and 'Random' (driving along and all the interior lights would come on !!).  I no longer use the remote as the system died years back. I use the old fashioned approach .. a key !

 

Do you think it is likely to be the same pesky micro-switch as described above ?  Or, is there some sort of control module somewhere ?

 

Any input appreciated, Cheers.

[YellowVrsToo]

Tailgate lock micro-switch working perfectly, have continuity from it to the connectors on the left hand side (under the CD player) but no 'tailgate open' indication and the luggage compartment lights don't come on. So I assume the must be a break in the wiring or a bad connection somewhere else. Any ideas, anyone?

 

I've just replaced the tailgate (someone hit it and drove off - grrr) and everything else works - central locking, key, etc. - so this is the last little thing to get working. It didn't work with the old tailgate either, but I assumed it was the lock micro-switch, as mentioned earlier. However, both lock micro-switches (of radically different designs) seem to be perfectly serviceable. Help!

[Colinskemp]

Had same problem with tailgate. Found a small wire in the bunch that traverses the axis, top left hand corner, had broken. Soldered in a slightly longer piece and all works fine.

[Colinskemp]

This was on my Skoda Octavia 54 plate, estate, 1.9TDI.

[Paul thornton]

This didn't work for me unfortunately. Replaced both microswitches. 2005 Beetle so it was a nightmare of a job with the steel door liners etc.

 

They both worked briefly then stopped again. Stripped the passenger door and lock down again, tested the microswitch with a multimeter and it worked perfectly so I'm guessing the motors themselves must have been causing the fault.

 

Lost patience in the end and installed 2 pin switches into the sides of the dash instead. Job done!

 

 

Edited 26 August, 2019 by Paul thornton

[JobbieJew]

Done this now the door has deadlocked shut. It can’t be opened from Inside or outside with or without the key.

 

ive left to door card off to make sure it would’ve been easier if something like this were to happen. 
 

how do I get around this?

 

since doing this I’ve discovered pins 7/8 are corroded so now thinking there’s no power getting to it even though the windows work. Is there an easier way to fix this other than replace the entire wiring loom?

 

Biggest issue though - how do we get the deadlocked door open? It would open with the old locking mechanism (which only had a bent pin) which was discovered after taking it off. 
 

HhEeLlPp!!!!

[mac11irl]

if its dead via the loom, it might not be locked (as in it mightve not locked but just wont open)

 

did you carefully count the threads the ribbed end of the outer bowden cable before removing and refitt with the same count visible?

did you test the mech several times with a screwdriver to close the latch before you closed it?

 

try leaning a bit on the door panel just beside the handle to push the metal in just a bit and pull the handle at the same time. if the cable is over tightened this will relax it just a smidge and might allow it to release.

 

Edited 11 October, 2020 by mac11irl

[JobbieJew]

1 hour ago, mac11irl said:

if its dead via the loom, it might not be locked (as in it mightve not locked but just wont open)

 

did you carefully count the threads the ribbed end of the outer bowden cable before removing and refitt with the same count visible?

did you test the mech several times with a screwdriver to close the latch before you closed it?

 

try leaning a bit on the door panel just beside the handle to push the metal in just a bit and pull the handle at the same time. if the cable is over tightened this will relax it just a smidge and might allow it to release.

 

 

19 hours ago, JobbieJew said:

I’ve screwed it up.

 

the door is now deadlocked. I openable from outside nor inside. 
 

the door card was kept off in case something like this happened. It was closed to test whether it would work or not after the changeover. Thank you for the information by the way, it helped a lot. 
 

do you any idea how to get this deadlock off? I’ve already smashed my way into the casing of the NEW locking mechanism to access the gearing, I’ve tried turning the gearing but it remains deadlocked. Any other ideas? 
 

wanna know what my problem turns out to be? Corrosion on pins 7+8 of the 8-pin wiring loom connector. 🙄🙄🙄 not only that, pin 7 was bent flat in the old locking mechanism, I’ve straightened that up and checked whether it worked and it did (this was with the lock off the car but powered up, you could put the key in and turn to open and lock all doors but remote isn’t working to lock and unlock the drivers door only. Lazy lock/global unlocking/windows down and up (whatever you wanna call it), that worked today with the key for the first time. 
 

Major problem -

 

Drivers door deadlocked shut,  all other doors fine. 
 

Minor problem -

 

would it be easier replacing the 8 pin connector which connects to the lock mechanism instead of replacing the entire wiring loom in the door? Corrosion within connector. 

 

got it open by following the steps in this video:

 

 

 

mech was tested multiple times, it was this that wasn’t returning to where it should’ve returned to (see image). It was out by about 1/2mm causing it not to open from both side. Once the wire to the handle was released and the hook pushed forward the door opened. 
 

I now need to find out what pins 5, 7 and 8 are for on the 8 pin connector to the mechanism as these ports are corroded. I will order this as a replacement:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233213137223
 

i’m just curious what those pins would stop the door from doing because everything except the central remote locking works on that door only, all other doors function as they should on remote. Now the mechanism has been replaced you can open/close all the windows while opening/locking the car it’s just the central locking on the drivers door that isn’t working. 
 

mill cut the old connector off and fit that to see if it cures it.