Electric Window Problem- wire broken?

[superherojones]

RE: Removing front door trim. So close yet so far!!

This follows on from my previous post with the above title. I now have had the trim off and can see a little of the problem.

Do these phot's show a classic regulator failure? if so i undertsnad there is a method of fixing this without removing the carrier. Interestingly the window still does funny things when the button is used, like going up a little way, then the motor sometimes on its own, reverse its self and takes the window down a little. Is this a good sign?

Hopefully the three photo's will help someone help me? I'm fairly adament i want to fix myself as i don't want to outlay any more than is necessary.

Thanks for any forthcoming help.

Regards

Tim

Edited 29 September, 2009 by fordfan
Advert removed

[kwacka]

RE: Removing front door trim. So close yet so far!!

I'm fairly adament i want to fix myself

Tim

Are you trapped in a space/time continuum???

Have a look here:

VWvortex Forums: DIY - Replacing the front door window regulator clips and/or door lock module

Also do a search, there's lots of info. I recently picked up a kit from ebay for £45, far better made and easier to fit than the Skoda item.

Edited 29 September, 2009 by fordfan
for sale reference removed from quote

[superherojones]

Are you trapped in a space/time continuum???

Have a look here:

VWvortex Forums: DIY - Replacing the front door window regulator clips and/or door lock module

Also do a search, there's lots of info. I recently picked up a kit from ebay for £45, far better made and easier to fit than the Skoda item.

Very ture. Thanks for recommendation, will have a further look see.

The question that i;m pondering at teh moment is how to i know how myuch of the window mechanism needs replacing untill i strip the carrier. I will i only find out then?

Can you just buy the 'clips' if all else is ok and only the whole regulator if required?

Edited 29 September, 2009 by superherojones
For sale reference removed

[kwacka]

If you buy OEM the regulator assembly comes riveted to the inner door panel, costs about £70. The clips are a VW item only. The ebay kit bolts to your existing inner door.

[Hauptmann]

Basically it sounds like your regulator is broken - and once its broken its scrap IMHO. Replacing the clips at this stage is a waste of time.

The 'how to' linked above looks a bit of a nightmare to be honest - I've fixed about half a dozen of these now and that's not the way I'd do it!

Got to EuroCarParts and buy a regulator kit - I pay about £35+VAT, but that's with trade discount, so you may pay a little more.

1. Remove door card.

2. Drill/cut away the two rivets connecting the door carrier to the lock mechanism.

3. Partially lower the glass until the clamp nuts are visible through the two 60mm grommets in the carrier. Loosen the clamp nuts and withdraw the glass (from the top and 'outwards').

4. Identify the four rivets (two left side and two right side) that retain the left and right window runners to the door carrier.

5. With a 6mm drill carefully drill the runner rivets and push the remains through. You will hear the old runners and cable fall to the bottom of the door casing.

6. Undo the three screws holding the motor to the spool (which is behind the carrier) and then push the three 'legs' of the spool through the carrier so it drops down inside the door.

7 Now undo the (10?) 6mm bolts holding the carrier to the door - you may have to slack/release some of the wiring clips.

8. Pull the carrier away from the door a few inches (a helper is good at this point) and reach inside the bottom of the door and extract all the scrap parts.

9. Lay out your new regulator and note that the top two 6mm bolts are shorter than the bottom two. Remove all the bolts.

10. Working with your hands behind the carrier, poke both new runners up behind the door and move them about until one of the TOP mountings lines up behind the appropriate old rivet hole. Insert a short 6mm bolt and loosely tighten. Do the same with the other top mount.

11. Now swing the bottom of the runners at an angle so that they clear the bottom of the door case and let them dangle down inside the door case.

12. Reach up and locate the regulator spool's three 'legs' through the holes in the carrier and carefully snap the motor into place over the legs and fit the three screws.

13. Now carefully move the bottom of each runner until its mounting bracket is visible behind the appropriate 6mm hole in the carrier and insert the longer 6mm bolts to secure.

14. Tighten all four runner bolts, and refit the M6 carrier bolts and tighten.

15. Operate window mechanism to position glass retaining nuts behind the 60mm grommets - refit glass and tighten nuts.

Job done.

Its sounds a lot more complex than it is!

Edited 1 October, 2009 by Hauptmann

[superherojones]

Thanks.

But without pictures i think i'm going to have to try and follow the other guides. Thanks for taking the time though.

i couldn't find the part on Eurocarparts. is the follwoing ebay link suitable, thanks in advance.

SKODA FABIA WINDOW REGULATOR REPAIR KIT FRONT LEFT on eBay (end time 27-Oct-09 07:18:09 GMT)

Cheers

Tim

[Hauptmann]

I PM'd you.

The part I mentioned (full regulator) is on the ECP website, I just looked.

The Ebay item is a repair kit - personally I wouldn't fancy threading all that lot up - for another £20 you get the complete mechanism which just goes in with 4 bolts. Horses for courses I guess...

[kwacka]

This is what I used: SKODA FABIA FRONT WINDOW REGULATOR 1999 - Onwards on eBay (end time 25-Oct-09 20:16:33 GMT)

It's not a repair kit, it's more like what Hauptmann used, although I cannot understand the first 2 lines of his guide as the door card isn't connected to the lock apart from a cable. There's no real need to separate the lock from the carrier, but if you do the centre pins push out of the (3) plastic rivets then they can be pushed through, reconnected afterwards. Be careful if you do remove the rivets as the lock rod can become disengaged and it's fiddly to reconnect.

[superherojones]

Thanks all.

I have ordered the whole kit (runners, wire, regulator) from EurCarParts (~£50) and hope to begin my adventure on Saturday weather permitting.

I just have a few remaing questions which i hope to answer before starting.

1) Hauptman- your number guide point 2 talks abotu two rivets for the door card lock mechanism. Are these in fact the three rivets shown in the third picture attached. There seems some debate about these, but do they definetly require removal? kwacka suggests this is bad. Does my first attached image show what the three rivets attach to, and if so do i remove this whole plastic looking item when i have the carrier partially off, or do i leave it be?

2) The third point on your numbered list says 'withdraw teh glass' and 'top and outwards'. Does this simple mean lift it up and tape it securely to the frame?

3) Are the two left and two right rivets as cricled in my second attached photo?

4) this seems obvious but i'll ask anyway, the three motor screws are as circled in light blue?

5) Once its all connected but before i reattach teh glass, can i test the mechanism by running it up and down using the motor or does doing that have any consequences. This links with point 13. Do i move the bottom of each runner by hand or using the motor? In fact, should i disconect the battery for this whole effort or leave it attached.

With the answers to the above i feel brave enough to take this job on, just hope it doesn't rain? and i'm not too hung over on saturday morning.

Cheers

Tim

[Hauptmann]

First of all, Skoda seem to have slightly changed the design of the door carrier over the years of production, so they may not all be identical to the picture you've posted. The last one I did looked a bit different.

On your specific points..

You need leave as much of the wiring as possible intact, but be able to pull the carrier away from the door a couple of inches to get your hand behind into the door case - so yes, you need to remove the rivets (there were two metal rivets on one I did last week). If you don't then the carrier stays attached to the lock mechanism and you can't pull it forward. The other alternative is to leave the rivets and undo the lock fixings - but thats a lot more work.

You could tape up the glass with strong tape - but I just lifted it right out and put in the boot - your choice.

Yes, I think you have circled the correct rivets - it will become obvious when you have the new regulator in front of you - you can check the rivets that you are drilling are the correct distance apart as per the new regulator fixings!

You move the bottom of each runner by hand until the bolt hole lines up - just slip your fingers behine the carrier or push the bottom end of the runner with a screwdriver.

Yes, I think you have the correct screws for the motor - again, its pretty obvious when the carrier is in front of you - you really have only one choice.

Best of luck with it - its really not difficult, just take your time.

[pieman[vrs]]

Hi,

 

Sorry to bump an old (ancient) thread but thought it was better than starting a new one.

 

Drivers side window has just died, nice crunching sound then just stopped working unfortunately the window is down. is there some way of getting the window up without having to drill out the rivets?

Just want to get the window up to stop people rumaging through the car tonight then I can have a proper go tomorrow after a trip to ECP

 

Any help appreciated thanks on advance!!!!

 

 

 

[sepulchrave]

Hi,

 

Sorry to bump an old (ancient) thread but thought it was better than starting a new one.

 

Drivers side window has just died, nice crunching sound then just stopped working unfortunately the window is down. is there some way of getting the window up without having to drill out the rivets?

Just want to get the window up to stop people rumaging through the car tonight then I can have a proper go tomorrow after a trip to ECP

 

Any help appreciated thanks on advance!!!!

 

 

 

Easy, remove the door card and the entire regulator panel (lots of 10mm bolts), disco all the electrics and unclamp the glass, chuck it all in the boot and cut a simple wooden prop to wedge the window shut, reconnect the loom to the door lock and voila, lockable and secure and you can take the regulator panel to the kitchen table to rebuild it once you have the kit in hand.

[pieman[vrs]]

This is as far as I can get without drilling any rivets the window goes up about 60%

Help

[fabrel]

Knock out the three black posts (push them inside the door) so the white spool/reel loses tension, and you can drag the window up. If that fails, pop out the two black grommets and unbolt the window from the rail/clamps. 

[mogwye]

Carefully pull out the 2 big grommets, hopefully you may see the 2 bolts you have to undo that clamp the window in position, if so, just slacken them off a little, this will allow you to pull the window up, use gaffa tape to hold up.

 

DB.

 

Fabrel, you beat me to it.

Edited 22 July, 2014 by mogwye

[pieman[vrs]]

Thanks for the replies

 

Managed to bodge in a wooden block to get it to stay up

 

Broke the alarm led in the process :(

 

Thanks again

 

 

[sepulchrave]

This is as far as I can get without drilling any rivets the window goes up about 60%

Help

 

That entire tin plate will come off without drilling any rivets, and you dont need to remove the lift motor either.

[TMB]

Broke the alarm led in the process :(

 

 

Not too expensive to replace http://www.skodaparts.com/product/fabia-locking-knob-guide-with-led-2000-2004-36979

[TMB]

That entire tin plate will come off without drilling any rivets, and you dont need to remove the lift motor either.

 

How? It's riveted to the door.

[sepulchrave]

How? It's riveted to the door.

 

I see the regulator guide rails are riveted to the tin plate, on the earlier Fabias they're bolted as well, mine is an early model but that whole plate was just bolted to the door in a few places, it's awkward to remove but it has to done to repair it anyway.

[TMB]

I see the regulator guide rails are riveted to the tin plate, on the earlier Fabias they're bolted as well, mine is an early model but that whole plate was just bolted to the door in a few places, it's awkward to remove but it has to done to repair it anyway.

 

The door carrier is bolted on mine too (03 reg) but later ones were riveted.

[pieman[vrs]]

I wish mine was bolted on :(

 

Will try solder the led back together but thanks for the link incase I mash it up some more, Just glad its not just sitting there with the window open.