CV Boot

[berr0010]

My offside CV boot has just gone on my Superb. Did a search and found lots of them going and there hard to change. However I cannot seem to find a description of why it is so hard compared to the nearside? My father is not due back from his winter break for 2 weeks so I wanted to see if I could fix it myself.

Also any suggestions on rear brake pads? Got the winding tool but is there any make you lot recommend as this is my first rear change.

Thanks

[berr0010]

Well waited for my good father to arrive back and change the boot. How glad I did!!

It took nearly 2 hours and was a right pain in the neck. Had to heat the top bolt off while protecting the rubber bushes with a spade. The drive shaft top clip was a real pain to open and get back on and to top it off while cleaning the CV joint 4 bearing decided to drop out.

This is not an easy job and I recommend anyone on here to go to a garage because without help and certain tools I would have failed!!!. Looks easy but my father sayes VW designers had a day off with the B5 passat/suberb.

Well its done and fingers crossed the nearside does not go.

[rotodiesel]

A CV joint boot change on these cars is easy provided you have the right tools and know how the outer joint comes apart.

The trick is to release the circlip you can see inside the joint and push the driveshaft further into it before attempting to separate the joint. Use the remains of the old boot to protect the outer joint whilst you apply sanctions with a hammer. Doing this gives you more inertia and allows the inner joint raceway to be moving before it tries to compress the outer circlip. Another way is to jack the inner raceway off the shaft using a long bolt from the outside - the hole goes right through. This doesn't work with all shafts and sometimes the bolt gets stuck.

Smear the outside of the boots annually with silicone grease (just a little, then wipe it off) so that they stay soft. These boots always crack at the bottom of the pleats on the outside. They never fail on the inside because the grease in the joint keeps them soft.

Anyone with a B5.5 should remove and grease the top suspension pinch bolt (grease the hole inside too) annually. It takes about 5 minutes and saves no end of grief. You have been warned - completely useless design (thanks, VAG)...

rotodiesel.

Edited 29 January, 2010 by rotodiesel

[Tom_vRS]

In 8 years of driving, I've done ALL servicing etc myself. In that time the only job I've entrusted to a garage was the CV boot replacement on my Passat!! That was because I was so busy at the time, but sounds like it was a good decision regarless.

[onespringer]

In 8 years of driving, I've done ALL servicing etc myself. In that time the only job I've entrusted to a garage was the CV boot replacement on my Passat!! That was because I was so busy at the time, but sounds like it was a good decision regarless.

Hi,new to this site, had superb2,5 tdi 3 years, failed mot last year on split cv boot, garage (not skoda) did replacement but 10,000 miles on- cv joint knocking on turn. On investigation small clip on boot come off, grease everywhere! The garage had fitted universal style boot -sloppy fit! Expect grit had entered joint and it was not cleaned out. Anyway purchaded new cv joint / boot kit/ bolt etc off ebay, looks good manufacture , cheap for what it is, and fitted today. Wasted 4 hours trying to drive pinch bolt out of top hub steering coupling, tried everything,wd40, plusgas, heat etc .Finally cut off back section of bolt using mini grinder-dremel type- then using spacers and washers replaced nut and tighten to draw bolt out! Nice clean straightforward job about 30 minutes , recommend if the pinch bolt wont immediately release . Job then completed fully within 2 hours. new high tensile 100mm m10 bolt and locknut £1.10p

[Supurbia]

. On investigation small clip on boot come off, grease everywhere! The garage had fitted universal style boot -sloppy fit!

I expect it had more to do with they didn't let the air out before clipping it back up.

GSF do a boot and CV kit for £32 if you need one again, ask for a GSP kit.

[Tech1e]

As an alternative to taking out the pinch bolt undo the one 18mm nut on the rear lower arm. You can then swing the hub out of the way to get the shaft out. N/S is even easier, no need to undo anything except the driveshaft itself unless it's a 2.8.

[098Joe]

As an alternative to taking out the pinch bolt undo the one 18mm nut on the rear lower arm. You can then swing the hub out of the way to get the shaft out. N/S is even easier, no need to undo anything except the driveshaft itself unless it's a 2.8.

You mean undo inner flange?

[dieselV6]

Newer boots available at dealers do not crack anywhere near as often, I replaced 3 or 4 in the first 5 years the last 2 replacements (1 each side) were heavy duty plastic rather than rubber, and I have not replaced any in the last 3 years. They're made out of much harder plastic, not rubber, before putting them onto the driveshaft it is best to tape over driveshaft ridge where the boot locks as well as the splines, doing so prevents tearing the boot while assembling the driveshaft. Other part sellers sell varying quality boots, even Febi ones were still rubber last time I checked.

[oh_superb]

I had a pair of GKN boots fitted (rubber) by a trusted garage at 75k miles, now on nearly 128k miles advisory note at the MOT that they are "perished", cracks visible all the way round.  I don't think 53k miles miles is bad really, I expected them to fail much sooner considering the number of Superb drivers having these issues.

I would quite happily go for another pair of GKN ones TBH, that should see us through to the end of the road  :clap:

Oh yes, the other advisory were front brake lines cracked (was also advised last year - been too lazy to do anything about it).

And a cracked windscreen which will need replacing by the insurers.  Otherwise a pass 

Thanks Superb for another cheap MOT  :sun:

Edited 18 August, 2014 by oh_superb