Central Locking problems?

[billy2981]

Right

I have been having trouble with my Drivers door not locking or unlocking unless you turn the key in the lock.

Some times it would work and others not.

I finally had enough today so I ripped the door apart.

Removing the door card is easy.

On the drivers door handle you need to prise out the inner part with a flat head screw driver, then the window switches just pull up and un clip(a bit of force is needed)

under there there is 5 or 6 X screws that need to come out and 3 Large X screws holding the bracket to the door.

then around the edges there are 7 hex screws and one behind the mirror adj stalk.

then just lift it off the door.

use a blunt ish knife to remove the insulation

This is the box you are after, note the connector, it fills with water and has no where to run away,.

The clip here pulls up and the connector pulls out at the same time

This is what I found:

I used some contact spray on it and it worked a treat.

Make sure you check this too!

the movement from winding the window up n down over the years has done this:

Sorted lol

Then some double side tape to put the sponge back on.

then replace the door card making sure you clip the handle cable round and there is a metal bit that needs to go in a plastic gully behind the handle to take the tension. If not the door wont open.

I also sorted my TB and thanks to Fatty5000 for sortin a gasket for me.

now the car runs smooth, also dont try running the car with the IC to TB pipe off lol as the car will cut out so as to not damage the engine lol.

I crapped myself when it ran rough I thought Id buggered it but after a few secs it flattened out and now is ace!

billy :p

[sdwilliams72]

Cheers Bill

Touch wood, not had any probs with mine, but after looking at that, would probably have a crack at it......

Steve

[DGW]

A nice guide to highlight a not uncommon problem. Thank you.

[vrs james]

Hi Cheers for this, sound slike the problem im having at the mo, i started a thread also for this - will try this before changing any parts, thanks

[Jonathan_1.8T]

nice guide,thank you,I need to do mine I think,as I also need to use the key (remote locks/unlocks everything but the drivers door).

Also the headlight-on warning buzzer has disappeared,& the courtesy light fails to illuminate when the drivers door is opened.

Reading other threads I think this might mean the lock mechanism (or a swtch within it) has failed,but I've also read threads about the dodgy water damaged connector, like yours,& often they are too corroded to be salvageable with spray.

so at this point I don't know if my problem is the dodgy connector,or the lock mechanism.

what contact cleaner did you use?

would something like this do?

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=contact+spray+electrical&_sacat=0&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313&_dmpt=UK_Crafts_Cardmaking_Scrapbooking_Glue_Tape_EH&_odkw=contact+spray&_osacat=0&bkBtn=1

thanks again,I'll be bookmarking this thread

[billy2981]

Cheers Guys,

I have been having the trouble for a month or so and I think I got to it in time as its as new now. If you leave it too long them it will quickly deteriorate and become expencive.

Its easy to do really. even if you just do it service the connections.

This is the stuff I used.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automotive/Lubricants+Sprays/Contact+Spray+400+ml/d60/sd2795/p81507

[vrs james]

Tried this today, great help in getting to everything but the connectors in mine are fine no sign of corrosion at all, looks like a new motor for me !!

[billy2981]

Tried this today, great help in getting to everything but the connectors in mine are fine no sign of corrosion at all, looks like a new motor for me !!

thats a bummer mate.

hope you get it sorted

[Jonathan_1.8T]

Tried this today, great help in getting to everything but the connectors in mine are fine no sign of corrosion at all, looks like a new motor for me !!

well isn't that bad luck but good luck?

if the connectors were rusted away isn't that the £300 bit,but the motor is "only" about £76 (I'm sure I read in another thread).....or am I confused?

[mikey9]

Now - my suggestion is take that door back apart - AND WATERPROOF THE BOX TO STOP WATER GETTING BACK IN.

I did exactly what you did last Christmas - but the bottom middle pin had corroded off. Buying a new box and motor was the only available option - so I did - BUT I DIDN'T DO ANYTHING ABOUT THE WATER INGRESS (sorry to shout but I am angry at myself....)

SO this CHristmas I had exactly he same problem and had to do it all again (the same pin had corroded off the NEW box.....aaarrrggghhh and had taken the female connector on the plug with it too!!

SO this time it is waterproofed

Autoleccy I used did the female connector with a VAG repair kit (wire with terminal on either end - cut to required length) then put plug into (second) new box then wrapped in self amalgamating tape (plumbers stuff for REAL waterproofing.

I then wrapped this in Cling film and zip tied the whole lump - that should keep the water out this time.

I have two spare motors without the box connected if anyone need them!!!!

[kevtherev]

I've been having similar problems with the driver door c/locking too. Anyway I used your very useful picture guide and found exactly the same water ingress in the connector! I'm off to buy some contact cleaner so I'm hoping it sorts it out in the samen way.

[billy2981]

Hope it works for you mate,

good luck

[vrs james]

well isn't that bad luck but good luck?

if the connectors were rusted away isn't that the £300 bit,but the motor is "only" about £76 (I'm sure I read in another thread).....or am I confused?

Yeah I geuss it is in a way, think ive sourced a motor so still a lot cheaper that a new control unit thingy

[kevtherev]

Well I tried the contact cleaner but alas no luck. Bl**dy thing still doesn't work and now the inner to the door handle has stretched so I can't open the door from within. To make matters worse you can't take up the play from the inner door handle end so the locking mechanism (& attached motor?), has to come out. A ten quid cable and mega fiddly trouble - unless anyone has a better idea or experienced this sort of thing before. Incidentally, what's the black box thingy for? (the bit shown in the photo's that leaks water).

kevtherev

[billy2981]

no it hasnt mate

look at the cable and on the plastic sheath, there is a silver coloured end that needs to clip in to the door card which takes the slack.

[Jonathan_1.8T]

I did this today,4 eroded to nothing pins :'(

can anyone help me please with the part number for the bits I need? and what does that part comprise....do you get the big bit with the pins AND the female block that pulls off?

Is it hard to fit?.....I didn't take the foam card off,mine was already cut for access,so I don't know where the other ends of these two bits go/join up....can anyone shed some light on this too?

And is the part/parts really £300.....that sounds a hell of a lot....or is that the Skoda fitted price?

Thanks in advance

[Sid Sidgwick]

While im on do the motors need to be coded to the car as im needing a new one (connector seems fine) and passenger door is deadlocked shut.

[55 VRS]

had this problem but with door mirror not adjusting or heating. connector has been cleaned but still no joy so module being changed at a considerable cost. anyone else had theirs changed and did you manage a good will gesture payment from skoda

[Jonathan_1.8T]

I did this today,4 eroded to nothing pins :'(

can anyone help me please with the part number for the bits I need? and what does that part comprise....do you get the big bit with the pins AND the female block that pulls off?

Is it hard to fit?.....I didn't take the foam card off,mine was already cut for access,so I don't know where the other ends of these two bits go/join up....can anyone shed some light on this too?

And is the part/parts really £300.....that sounds a hell of a lot....or is that the Skoda fitted price?

Thanks in advance

as a follow up to my own questions, I rang Skoda to get a quote to replace the control unit, & the female block connector (as mine does not look good) and they quoted a very reasonable £47........................oh sorry,I forgot to add a "0"

Yes a snip at £470

It will have to stay like that,"it's a Skoda,not a limousine I'm not paying that,you're 'avin a laugh!"

Edited 17 March, 2010 by Jonathan_1.8T

[vrs james]

HI i have checked this unit on mine it has not corrosion whatso ever, i have just tried a secondhand door lock motr mechanism also ( as my remote doesnt open the drivers door ) this has not helped either ????

[andyrew]

sorry if i sound a bit dumb but what connector is it that is getting water in?

is it the one on the bottom of the window motor that is in the pic above wrapped in cling film?

[billy2981]

yea thats the one.

the blug goes in and seals in but some how it seems water seaps in to it thru the actuall box then gets stuck at the connector pins.

[andyrew]

so how does the window regulator multiplug connect to the central locking to cause problems?

i would not have thought they would have had all the wires connected. i thought they were all individual.

[billy2981]

not sure, I think that all are in the same connector but mainly the locking cables have the trouble as they are at the bottom of the connector.

I think I was just lucky and I got to it in time so it didnt destroy the pins.

[andyrew]

ok cool. i will give this a look during the week when its light outside.