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How To: Remove / Delete SAI , N249 and N112


Bowders1

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UPDATE:

Fixed photo and links 13/01/2013.

SAI, N249 and N112 Removal Part 1

Jack car up and place on axle stands.Working from underneath Remove bottom engine shield (4 torx screws)

engineshields_zps066e2099.jpg

Next unplug SAI sensor (see blue arrow)

saipump3_zps70f19620.jpg

user97664_pic199186_1208803959_zps734271

Remove the 3 x 10mm nuts holding SAI to Bracket(note you may not be able to remove the SAI yet, but might have space)

saipump2_zpsa2a9ab67.jpg

SAIPump_zps3c393ab9.jpg

carefully lower SAI and remove the 2 plastic hoses to the SAI before you completely remove SAI. These are the input and output plastic hoses from the SAI to combi valve and Airbox identified by the red and yellow arrows

saipump3_zps70f19620.jpg

You will need to remove 3 x allen bolts holding SAI bracket to engine.

SAIpumpbracket_zpsd17da994.jpg

Top bolt pictured is tough to get to. But I found it easier from above engine using a small ext bar onto allen socket and then a knuckle joint and another extension bar to the racket.The lower 2 bolts not really a problem to get to (pic shows where they were)

SAI2_zps74624a9c.jpg

Both SAI and mounting bracket removed.(far left and far right items)

SAI_zps3c8006a5.jpg

Next was to fit the resistors to the wiring loom to fool ECU the removed parts are still there. Pic of what they look like crimped and ready to fit.I opted to keep the full wiring loom intact in case i wanted to convert back to standard. I fitted the resistor to the std loom.

 

can get them here:

 

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/0160382/


resistor3_zps47c06448.jpg

resistor_zps1d4abb55.jpg

4resistors_zpsb0523247.jpg

Fitted to the wiring loom.

resistor2_zps8ced74b2.jpg

Tape up and cable tie to another loom or appropriate mounting point to avoid hanging in the way of moving parts. The Car can be lowered down onto floor now as the rest of the work is from above.Now remove the 2 engine covers (if you have both fitted) by twisting the plastic screws 90' (not pictured)You can remove the first top SAI plastic hosing from the bracket by removing the 2 x 10mm nuts holding the top hose in place pictured below and moving to one side (not yet from car)

Page7_zps8dab1603.jpg

I also removed the 2 x 10mm bolts holding metal bracket in place to the Inlet manifold to get to the 2nd hose.

Page8_zps5264851a.jpg

Turn the metal bracket over (being careful not to pull at any cables or hoses)Unplug the N249 and the N112 sensors. You may find it easier to unplug the 2 sensors first before you turn bracket over.Example of 2 sensors shown

SAI6_zps6d846096.jpg

SAI7_zps7f299e5e.jpg

Remove the 10mm nut holding the other lower SAI plastic hose to the bracket and remove the hose.If you have standard airbox remove the SAI hose from the side of the airbox ( I have a CAI kit so just needed to cut white cable tie holding the hose in place and remove that hose.(see in pic)Unclip the other SAI hose from the combi valve(red arrow)

SAI5_zps3c17efb6.jpg

SAItoppipe_zpsa7e18f15.jpg

Now you can remove the 2 SAI hoses completely from the car.IF you have std airbox you will need to plug the airbox where the SAI pipe was attachedI used the elbow from the SAI pipe a a plastic plug from B&Q did a great job

VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean035.jpg

Next you need to undo the 2 x allen bolts holding the temp sensor coolant hose asm to to be able to get to the SAI Combi valve bolts. You will loose approx 500ml of coolant.(so no big issue to top up)

Page14_zps53cc9b0b.jpg

Push the coolant hose to one side. Unplug SAI combi valve sensor, pull off the small rubber hose to the back of the SAI combi valve, then undo the 3 x Allen bolt holding the combi valve in place.

18t_bay14_zpsdb2a3d11.jpg

Please move to Part 2 of removal.

Edited by Bowders1
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SAI, N249 and N112 Removal Part 2

Remove the SAI Combi Valve (in center of pic with parts removed so far)

SAI_zps4ac12f89.jpg

The hole in the block where the combi valve was will need to have a blanking plate fitted

Page19_zps46734bf3.jpg

This is where the Forge blank comes in that has a rubber seal on one side.

forgeegrblank_zps34d75855.jpg

Forge blank fitted in place with the 2 allen bolts supplied

SAI3_zpsd22b41ee.jpg

That is the SAI and combi valve completely removed.

Next the N249 and N112.

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SAI, N249 and N112 Removal Part 3

Final Part of removal of N249 and N112

Start by removing the Metal bracket holding the N249 and N112 units.

To do this you will need to unclip the 3 hoses that connect to the metal hardlines running round the side on the engine to DV, combi valve and plastic Vacuum reservoir that side on coil pack no 4.(pictured). You won't be using these. I also removed the hardlines to clean up side of engine.

SAI9_zps270e8ab4.jpg

you can cut these to make it easier to remove bracket

Page9_zps2fc8c520.jpg

Remove the rubber hose connecting to the inlet manifold(pictured)

Now bracket can be removed.

Info about the parts on the bracket

N249andN112bracketview_zpsbc40378d.jpg

Now you can remove the Vacuum reservoir rubber hose and unit from the engine.

Vacuumreservoir_zps96796471.jpg

Now you can remove the bracket that held the Vacuum reservoir in place. I had original allen bolt son mine but you may find these have been replaced by 10mm bolts

Page6_zps23e71be5.jpg

The original DV hose can be removed and replaced with a longer hose that goes from DV to inlet manifold nipple that used to have a hose from the T piece from the N249 valve.

Now all that is left to do is to locate the wiring sensors that used to be connected to the N112 and N249 (the ones found under the Inlet bracket unplugged in Part 1) and fit inline resistors to them.

found here:

SAI6_zps6d846096.jpg

and here:

SAI7_zps7f299e5e.jpg

Afterwards admire all the bits you have taken off

Update : 13/01/2013

FYI I deleted more hard lines and simplified various other parts of car since this thread that maybe of some use.

Breather / EVAP system simplification.

http://www.briskoda....simplification/

Oil Catch Can Installation

http://www.briskoda....-guide-install/

  • Like 2
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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest westallc

one thing your resistors are completly coverd with tape so will get hot and fail try doing it leaving the resistor open and in a position of air flow to keep it cool..

since fitting mine 2 weeks now no fault codes have appeared. :thumbup:

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one thing your resistors are completly coverd with tape so will get hot and fail try doing it leaving the resistor open and in a position of air flow to keep it cool..

since fitting mine 2 weeks now no fault codes have appeared. :thumbup:

Hi Clive that is true but only very slightly covered as the resistor is on the site of the wiring.

I will bet you you get a cell in the next week or two depending on how often you drive it. :giggle:

P.S have you done the EVAP mod, might do that soon

cheers

Mark.

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  • 1 month later...

Cheers for this Bowders. We did this mod on my car on Sunday morning. Was nice and simple and the car seems to be alot smoother now. Touch wood but no EML light as yet. Done about 100 miles since, and this includes a few track sessions at Lydden on Monday.

Thanks Again.

Garry

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Hi Clive that is true but only very slightly covered as the resistor is on the site of the wiring.

I will bet you you get a cell in the next week or two depending on how often you drive it. :giggle:

P.S have you done the EVAP mod, might do that soon

cheers

Mark.

He has had codes for both :dull:

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

sooo what dose this actualy doo?

Tidies up the engine bay. The SAI tends pump to fail after a few years and removal is cheaper than replacement!

Also the vac hoses eventually become brittle causing boost leaks so replacing them is good!

http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/V2Images/ModsEngine/AirSystemRemoval.htm

http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/V2Images/ModsEngine/N249Removal.htm

http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/V2Images/ModsEngine/SSPRemoval.htm

:D

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  • 3 months later...

Im going to be removing these at same time as fitting my OCC.....

Can anyone help me out with a shopping list of parts i will require?

1) forge blank plug

2) 3x 330ohm resistors (10w?)

3) length of wire (what thickness?) to join in resistors

4) replacement hose from top of dv (what sixe? what length?)

Is there any other parts required?

Thanks

Edited by M450N
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  • 3 months later...

Im going to be removing these at same time as fitting my OCC.....

Can anyone help me out with a shopping list of parts i will require?

1) forge blank plug

2) 3x 330ohm resistors (10w?)

3) length of wire (what thickness?) to join in resistors

4) replacement hose from top of dv (what sixe? what length?)

Is there any other parts required?

Thanks

Old post dug up again, but i'm in the same boat as this chap - Looking at doing this pretty soon myself :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Can anyone help me out with a shopping list of parts i will require?

1) forge blank plug -

http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=&product=FMEGRBP

Over £20 delivered.

2) 3x 330ohm resistors (10w?)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110638666691&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Yep, 10w, 330ohm seem to be what is commonly used £3.50 each

3) length of wire (what thickness?) to join in resistors

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Red-Silicone-Wire-per-1m-High-Temperature-0-5mm-CSA-3A-/110641091260?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item19c2b912bc

a couple of quid. Don't think you need a particular thickness, but went for high temp wire given its location in the engine area.

4) replacement hose from top of dv (what sixe? what length?)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4mm-I-D-SILICONE-VACUUM-HOSE-SILICON-BREATHER-VAC-PIPE-/260672427831?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Bathroom_Shower_Units_PP&var=&hash=item826375a8d4

a couple of quid. I got 4mm vacuum hose and 2 meters of it, although in practice you need only about 70cm.

The above links are for the parts i used. Of course there will probably be other/better/cheaper options.

Is there any other parts required?

I used male spade connectors to attach from the wire to the connectors, plus some electrical tape. Otherwise, that's it.

Edited by Shroud
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  • 5 months later...

Just a quick one for Mark or Rob or those of you who have done this, the electrical connection for the EGR valve that gets dis-connected on removal does it require a resistor fitting or do you just leave it unplugged and tied up out of the way, there seems to be no mention of it in Mark's or Rob's guides. Cheers Andyemoticon-0148-yes.gif

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Just a quick one for Mark or Rob or those of you who have done this, the electrical connection for the EGR valve that gets dis-connected on removal does it require a resistor fitting or do you just leave it unplugged and tied up out of the way, there seems to be no mention of it in Mark's or Rob's guides. Cheers Andyemoticon-0148-yes.gif

Hi Andy.

I do make reference to the EGR plu, but not at EGR end at the seondary air system end. There should be no plug at the EGR end. The plug is what you have left behind after removing the Secondary air pump. That plug needs a resistor fitting into it to fool the ecu to thinking the secondary air pump is still connected. :thumbup:

I have picks of this on page 1.

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  • 1 month later...

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