Fabia nut and bolt tightening torques

[BlackFR]

A collection of nut and bolt torques I've acquired from going through previous posts...

ARB bracket bolts 				20 Nm + 1/4 turn
Console mounting bolts				70 Nm + 1/4 turn
Dog bone mount gearbox end			30 Nm
Dog bone mount subframe end			40 Nm
Drop link nuts 					40 Nm
Front wishbone retaining bolt			70 Nm + 1/4 turn
Front wishbone to ball joint bolts		20 Nm + 1/4 turn
Wheel Bolts 					120 Nm

No guarantee that these are 100% correct but they should hopefully be of some use.

[BigW]

Post Stickied, Please add any torque settings you are aware of and I will update the original post to reflect.

[fabdavrav]

Please find some more below from Haynes with a bit more clarity on bolt positions, and additional personal experience notes. I am not liable for any of this (covering my own back)!!!

PETROL ENGINE GENERAL

Spark plugs = 30Nm (22lbf ft)

Sump drain plug = 30Nm (22lbf ft)

Manual gearbox filler & drain plugs = 25Nm (18lbf ft)

Road wheel bolts = 120Nm (89lbf ft). Tighten up in diagonal cross pattern.

PETROL ENGINE 1.4MPI

Rocker cover bolts for 1.4MPI = 3Nm (2lbf ft)

FRONT SUSPENSION:

ARB saddle clamp over bush = 20Nm (15lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. The lower bolt on the drivers side cannot be reached with the wheels in the air as the angle of the drive-shaft covers the bolt, so do this bolt first when undoing, and last when tightening, and jack the wishbone up on this side under the ball-joint to raise the drive-shaft out of the way!!

ARB drop link both ends = 40Nm (30lbf ft) Do not fully tighten top (strut) end until car is fully supported (evenly) on wheels! Always renew the nuts.

Balljoint to lower arm = 20Nm (15lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn These are the three small bolts, only resuse the captive tri-nut plate twice, and reuse the bolts no more than three times!

Balljoint to hub carrier nut = 20Nm (15lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn, Always renew nut.

****************************************************************************

Front pivot bolt for lower wishbone = 70Nm (52lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

Lower arm rear mounting bracket plate (console) has 1 large bolt and 2 small ones.

Large = 70Nm (52lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

Small = 20Nm (15lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew these bolts.

Front (console) subframe to underbody bolt (the one that you get to through hole on wishbone) = 50Nm (37lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn (Yes I know that this is a lower torque than rear bolt, but logically the rear one takes more force as the suspension tries to go up and back into bodywork, which is why it also has a reinforcing place and a further 2 bolts!!

Steering rack to subframe/console/underbody (four bolts) = 50Nm (37lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

Gearbox link to subframe bolt = 40Nm (30lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

***If you have had to move/replace console, ARB, etc. I have found this to help setting it up even!! Slacken all the above bolts up to line ******(especially front pivot). Then push the aluminium consoles (you might also have to push the subframe) to rear of car and outwards max diff is about 5mm. Then fully tighten the rear console bracket bolts (6 total) and front console bolts (2). Then tighten (evenly) the front pivot bolts to 1/2 torque (this positions the sub frame), then fully tighten the four steering rack bolts. Now you can go back and fully tighten the front pivot bolts, and the gearbox link to subframe bolt!!!

Suspension strut bottom clamp bolt & nut = 60Nm (44lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew nut.

Piston rod nut to top mounting = 60Nm (44lbf ft) Always renew nut.

Top mounting bolts to bodywork (three of) = 15Nm (11lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew.

Main 12 point hub nut (all older types should be replaced with this type) = 50Nm (37lbf ft)+ 1/8 turn (45 deg. Use once only design!!) Tighten the nut up just enough to fully draw the driveshaft into the bearing unit, refit the wheel (do not fully tighten the five wheel bolts, wheel should not move, and no gap between wheel and hub), then put car on ground, then fully tighten the main hub nut, then fully tighten the wheel bolts in diagonal cross pattern!!

Road wheel bolts = 120Nm (89lbf ft). Tighten up in diagonal cross pattern.

REAR SUSPENSION:

Main pivot bush through bolt & nut = 45Nm (33lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew nut. These should be done up so that they just touch the mounting bracket, then refit wheels etc. and lower car to ground. Open hatch and bounce car up and down from centre of hatch lower lip (this settles the bushes). Now you can fully tighten the bolts up (leave the car on ground!!)

Piston strut to beam bottom mounting bolt & nut = 40Nm (30lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew nut. These should be done up so that they just touch the mounting bracket, then refit wheels etc. and lower car to ground. Open hatch and bounce car up and down from centre of hatch lower lip (this settles the bushes in piston mounting). Now you can fully tighten the bolts up (leave the car on ground!!)

Piston rod nut to top mounting = 25Nm (18lbf ft)

Top mounting bracket to bodywork bolts(two of) = 30Nm (22lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew.

Stub axle bolts (four off) = 30Nm (22lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew.

Main 12 point hub nut = 70Nm (52lbf ft)+ 1/12 turn (30 deg). Always renew. This one doesn't need car to be on ground etc. like front one!!

Road wheel bolts = 120Nm (89lbf ft). Tighten up in diagonal cross pattern.

FRONT BRAKES:

Guide pin bolts for FSII & FSIII calipers = 28Nm (21lbf ft). Always copper grease for bushes and use "blue" threadlock on threads!

Guide pin bolts for C54-II caliper = 30Nm (22lbf ft). Always renew.

Mounting bracket bolts for C54-II caliper = 125Nm (92lbf ft).

Brake disc splash shield bolts = 10Nm (7lbf ft).

Brake disc = none given, older VW used to state low value of around 10Nm (7lbf ft).

REAR DISC BRAKES:

Guide pin bolts = 35Nm (26lbf ft). These need to be counter held to stop rotation and "blue" threadlock on threads.

Mounting bracket bolts = 30Nm (22lbf ft)+ 1/12 turn (30 deg), and "blue" threadlock on threads.

Brake disc = none given, older VW used to state low value of around 10Nm (7lbf ft).

DIESEL ENGINE MOUNTINGS INC. VRS!

Drivers side engine mounting to;

Engine = 30Nm (22lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

Body = 20Nm (15lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

Centre nut = 40Nm (30lft ft) + 1/4 turn

Passenger side mounting to;

Transmission = 40Nm (30lft ft) + 1/4 turn

Body = 50Nm (37lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

Rear torque arm to;

Subframe = 40Nm (30lft ft) + 1/4 turn

Transmission = 30Nm (22lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

1.4lt 16v PETROL ENGINE MOUNTINGS

Drivers side engine mounting to;

Engine = 30Nm (22lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

Body = 20Nm (15lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

Passenger side mounting to;

Transmission = 40Nm (30lft ft) + 1/4 turn

Body = 50Nm (37lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

Rear torque arm to;

Subframe = 40Nm (30lft ft) + 1/4 turn

Transmission = 30Nm (22lbf ft) + 1/4 turn

Edited 10 August, 2018 by fabdavrav

[Joe41]

my fabia vrs is a 2004 is 125 nm for the caliper carrier bracket

[Skodub]

Has anyone got the torque settings for the right hand engine mount botls (one removed to get acceess to cambelt). Thanks.

[Breezy_Pete]

For your 1.4/16V?

If so, the three bolts nearest the engine are 30Nm plus 90° (quarter) turn.

The four that hold the mount to the chassis are 20Nm plus 90° (quarter) turn.

All 7 are supposed to be renewed, but even VW didn't when they did my cambelt recently.

The big nut that holds the two bits of the mount together shouldn't be undone.

 

Reference

Edited 26 February, 2016 by Wino

[Skodub]

For your 1.4/16V?

If so, the three bolts nearest the engine are 30Nm plus 90° (quarter) turn.

The four that hold the mount to the chassis are 20Nm plus 90° (quarter) turn.

All 7 are supposed to be renewed, but even VW didn't when they did my cambelt recently.

The big nut that holds the two bits of the mount together shouldn't be undone.

 

Reference

 

Thanks.

 

Indeed, lots of people don't replace these TTY bolts, some get away with it.

 

Speaking of replacing things, I've just bought a genuine cambelt kit for this 1.4 BBZ engine, but it doesn't come with the small idler for the guiide deflection pulley/idler arm to the left of the belt. VW/TPS say this part isn't even available at all. So I've got to put the new kit on, with one old idler, which so long as the bearing is ok, should be fine. But I'm sure some after market kits list this as a part.

 

But, I've given the idler a good inspection and I'm happy with the condition of the idler and the bearing.

 

Also, would you mind giving me the torque setting fot the bolt which holds this arm on please? Thanks again.

[Skodub]

Also for the water pump too please.

[Breezy_Pete]

I'll find what I can for you this afternoon. I'd be very surprised if any of those bolts really are TTY, I think the issue is more thread galling. Measure your new bolts accurately and compare with the ones you replace, if curious.

[Breezy_Pete]

Do you mean this bit? Part number from here.

Torques coming up.

[Breezy_Pete]

Looks like that teeny, half-a-million rpm guide pulley wasn't fitted after May 2005?  Has yours definitely got it? Was it made before this date?

20Nm for the water pump bolts apparently (item 12 on that page). 50Nm for the bolt that secures that teeny pulley (bracket) if you do fit/refit one (item 10 on that page).

[Skodub]

That's the one, excellent, thanks very much.

[Breezy_Pete]

There are some others on ebay, slightly cheaper I think, just search that part number.

[Skodub]

The deflection idler doesn't push the belt back particularly hard, as it's just for deflection. Also the condition of the idler and the bearing is very good indeed, so with those points in mind and the fact that a year or so later VW stopped fitting it to these engines and VW don't supply the part anymore, I refitted the deflection idler pulley.

 

The car has only done 56,000 miles, so what I could do later is source another idler or press a new bearing in, but at the moment there's no play in the bearing. Other than that, everything else has been replaced.

 

It's strange, that as supposedly they stopped fitting these to these cars after 2005, this is a late 2006 car.

Edited 26 February, 2016 by Skodub

[rum4mo]

I seem to remember that the indie I used for my wife's previous 2003MY Polo with the BBY 1.4 16V 75PS, sourced a new pulley from the TDI engine to fit to the end of the arm as a matter of course based on his experience of these failing on some engines.

[Skodub]

I seem to remember that the indie I used for my wife's previous 2003MY Polo with the BBY 1.4 16V 75PS, sourced a new pulley from the TDI engine to fit to the end of the arm as a matter of course based on his experience of these failing on some engines.

 

Good to know, thanks. It would be a very easy job to replace without removing the cambelt, as it only just slightly touches it.