Jump to content

Felicia central locking


Recommended Posts

Looking at Haynes on the circuit diagram of the central lock system( p12-32) , it would appear to be similar to conventional add on systems ,with one exception - the change over switch on the front motor -LHS change over switch is opposite to that of RHS .A lot of alarm circuits with remote controls and pulsed earth output use the outputs of the change over switch in the motor to remote lock .Anyone had a look at this circuit in Haynes with reference to the actual wiring ?, Or any blokes with manufacturers notes /etc confirm Haynes is correct .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A multimeter is your friend :) Or even just a length of wire so you can earth them somewhere before wiring in the control wires.

No problems there - just trying to work out if the felocia circuit used the reverse switch to reset the operation . I suspect it's a misprint - and both switches should be on the same polarity -as a lot of other add ons are . I'm trying to find out if messrs Haynes have mad a mistake ( and someone has found it ,but not thought it worthwhile to mention) before getting involved in a strip .I've already worked out my version of circuit operation - and let's face it -it's not a complicated one -not in my line of work ,or with my background .Most door motors ( five wire ones that is) have a change over contact,depending on the position of the lock button . it's this that provides for any remote operation .

Not wishing to be seen to snub any help -so carry on helping -all information gratefully received ,and faithfully applied .

Edited by VWD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having looked at the diagram the bits are connected to the same terminal at the controller, but use different wire colours each side. I think the switch position shown is to indicate the motors are "handed". The diagram in the Favorit Haynes shows it as would be expected with same colour wires for each function each side (so it isn't an error copied from earlier manuals as sometimes happens in Haynes manuals).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having looked at the diagram the bits are connected to the same terminal at the controller, but use different wire colours each side. I think the switch position shown is to indicate the motors are "handed". The diagram in the Favorit Haynes shows it as would be expected with same colour wires for each function each side (so it isn't an error copied from earlier manuals as sometimes happens in Haynes manuals).

Not on the one I'm looking at -left motor contact is between white and yellow, right contact is between white and black .Manual 3505 ,page 12-32 ,items 162/163.I would suggest that haynes has reversed the position of motor wrt contacts to show that they're handed ,using a flip on the drawing item ,but not adjusted the wiring .Any other way of checking up on version of manual ,to see if it's specific to one particular one ?

Ah - just re read your bit -see what you're saying now - not something I would expect -would expect to see same colours for each ,or totally different .Possibly just me being a bit pedantic .

Edited by VWD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I spent a while with mine trying to figure out why the central locking and electric mirrors didn't work and the main conclusion I reached is that the Haynes wiring diagrams are obviously copied straight from the factory ones (I mean, they've even left the colour abbreviations in German...) and thus are for LHD cars, so most of the references to 'left' and 'right' are backwards. As I read it, the diagram checks out in terms of how things are connected, but indeed the wire colours happen to be different each side for no good reason.

It should be dead easy to check, though - it's only a couple of screws to remove the kick trim panels to get at the door loom connectors (much quicker than pulling the doors apart). There's also a connector under the dash on the passenger side of the centre console, just above the radio connectors which isn't shown on the Haynes diagram which, if disconnected, makes all the door electrics not work. Guess where my problem lay...

For completeness, my Car's a '99 Felicia SLXi and my Haynes is the 2003 edition.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I spent a while with mine trying to figure out why the central locking and electric mirrors didn't work and the main conclusion I reached is that the Haynes wiring diagrams are obviously copied straight from the factory ones (I mean, they've even left the colour abbreviations in German...) and thus are for LHD cars, so most of the references to 'left' and 'right' are backwards. As I read it, the diagram checks out in terms of how things are connected, but indeed the wire colours happen to be different each side for no good reason.

It should be dead easy to check, though - it's only a couple of screws to remove the kick trim panels to get at the door loom connectors (much quicker than pulling the doors apart). There's also a connector under the dash on the passenger side of the centre console, just above the radio connectors which isn't shown on the Haynes diagram which, if disconnected, makes all the door electrics not work. Guess where my problem lay...

For completeness, my Car's a '99 Felicia SLXi and my Haynes is the 2003 edition.

Thanks,Robin - I must be too used to drawings where anything which could cause confusion leading to problems/mistakes was eradicated,and the wiring for one purpose the same colour .The info above is very useful -mines a 97 GLi and the manual is a 2002 one .

Just had a look at an old Cavalier manual ,and it would confirm the copy idea -most of the descriptions are ( in that) in German ,but the Skoda ones are simple and large compared to that one .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

For reference, the official Skoda remote locking upgrade kit I've just got my hands on is designed to splice into the connector for the central electronic unit which lives up behind the speedo, and has this handy table of pins to connect the 'lock' and 'unlock' wires to, depending on the model of the central electronic unit:

Autron | AEV 4112 | AEV 4102 |
-------+----------+----------+----
 T1   |    1     |     1    | DO    (unlocked)
 T2   |    2     |     5    | DZ    (locked)

Unfortunately that's about as much sense as it makes. I may have to take the time to fully translate the 'English' instructions into something understandable before I start pulling my dash apart :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Robin - for ( possibly a good bit less ) ,but needing a bit of work on the power supply , you could have got a Quasar remote unit with KEYLOQ technology - random coding ,and remote needing to be programmed to unit .Three channel unit from Maplin costs about £45( with one remote ,others up to six can be used cost approx £10) - haven't priced it from quasaruk - got the option of a latch or pulse output .( Lock/unlock and boot open).Now that I've worked out Skoda system of diagrams a la Haynes ( and I thought Japanese Telecomms manuals were bad) - I would suggest that the central unit sits waiting for an earth on the non earthy line from the 5w door unit .If you're into electronics -I've had a PSU working on my Fabia ( OPERATING HATCH only)for a couple of years now -no problems ( but as said elsewhere) ,I would suggest some system of isolation of unit when ignition is on for petrol units due to units dislike of spikes( mine is a TDI) .

PSU consists of a decoupled 7805 feeding a 5-12v Aimtek 2w SMPU( again decoupled and voltage rails isolated from car supply) -

Also had a look at a central locking system I got ( MAPLIN ONE) but never fitted through lack of time when I was working ,and now loss of interest in car .The 5W door units are as per the Haynes manual -slightly different colour code , but with a change over switch dependant on which position motor is in .Maplin in a FAQ thing on this one state that for operation vua an alarm the controller requires a pulsed earth on the non earthed wire to change state .

From what you said about the kick panels - I'd suggest that this might be a good place to splice into the system - it (IMHO) only needs connecting into the wiring from one door unit ,and a supply/earth from some other source .

Stop press -just had a look at quasar uk- they now do a four channel system @£30, with one remote ( extras up to seven can be used @ £8.78 ) ( and all their other systems are cheaper than Maplin) .

When I asked for suitability for car use as a remote -they were only too happy to say it had the requires security features , but suggested protection from spikes .

EDIT - just noticed that the four channel unit has a sliding cover -so even more suitable for keeping in pocket .

Edited by VWD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Robin - for ( possibly a good bit less ) ,but needing a bit of work on the power supply , you could have got a Quasar remote unit with KEYLOQ technology - random coding ,and remote needing to be programmed to unit [...]

Haha, you don't think I paid the ridiculous £70-something from Skoda do you? :)

This AEV system seems comparable - HiSec rotating random coding, can learn up to 7 remotes (2 provided), fully type approved etc. The little Skoda logo on it is just a bonus. I was intending to get one of the systems from rightclick.co.uk at some point, but purely by chance came across this unused official kit and managed to snag it for a shade over twenty notes. Result! :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dammit i need a scanner, it looks like there are indeed a couple of errors in the haynes manual regarding the central locking system... i've got the proper workshop wiring diagrams here but my scanner is bust

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha, you don't think I paid the ridiculous £70-something from Skoda do you? :)

This AEV system seems comparable - HiSec rotating random coding, can learn up to 7 remotes (2 provided), fully type approved etc. The little Skoda logo on it is just a bonus. I was intending to get one of the systems from rightclick.co.uk at some point, but purely by chance came across this unused official kit and managed to snag it for a shade over twenty notes. Result! :D

Man after my own heart - and to Teflon Tom- thanks for those - will check my Haynes for problems .Main benefit of those is all the extra data (i.e combining points) not in Haynes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.