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Dash Mounted Top Storage Box Removal


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I am looking to get my SatNav mounted in the dash mounted storage box - I have seen a couple of threads from others who have done this but haven't been able to find a detailed 'how-to' to remove the top storage box. (I want to run cables / power into the top box). I may be just being stupid and a bit nervous about wrecking my new car but having slid a ruler under the bottom edge of the box I couldn't get it to shift at all? (I actually ended up breaking the ruler which I took as a hint to stop before I did some real damage to the car itself!). Anybody have a how-to or able to give me some tips for how to remove this? (Pictures would be good! or an indication as to where the clips are? For example where are they in relation to the knobs for the air-vent direction?).

Cheers.

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It's secured by three big plastic clips at the front. It's actually easy to remove and robust, so don't be afraid to give it some good leverage. A trim removal tool like I'm using in the picture is best, but I have managed to do one with a couple of car keys, finger nails and determination.

P1020401.jpg

P1020403.jpg

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Eccosse, i've done my install to the top box (inc power from fuse box and traffic aerial behind dash). If you want a gander at it with the top box removed, give us a shout. Hardest bit is figuring out how to mount the satnav for use from the top box (currently velcro onto satnav mount upside down).

Best / easiest route for wiring from fusebox to top box is over the top of the fold down storage drawer to the right of the steering wheel under the dash - dead easy to do from the fusebox end. From there drop down under the steering wheel, there's gaps in the trim == super easy to pull cable along there. That brings you out under the top box, very easy to reach down and grab the wire you've fed through under the steering wheel.

I've run my fiscon bluetooth mic, tomtom power and ... something else, i forget, this way. Here's some random pictures that may help.

After removing the top box by levering the bottom / front edge of it, then you need to remove the hazard's cable connector by pushing the clip in.

post-53884-0-70434600-1299459855_thumb.jpg

Using a bit of string to pull another wire through, in the fusebox end, over the drawer i mentioned, visible in this pic.

post-53884-0-65658700-1299459860_thumb.jpg

Under the steering wheel there's an empty bit of trim that acts as a tray for cables safely hidden out of view but easily accessed with your fingers to pull the cable through.

post-53884-0-25251000-1299459865_thumb.jpg

Reach down on the steering wheel side of the dash from the top box to retrieve the cable you've just run, in my case a bit of string.

post-53884-0-31673200-1299459870_thumb.jpg

Taped the tomtom traffic aerial to under the dashboard, don't want any of it rattling under there.

post-53884-0-23906200-1299459874_thumb.jpg

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Eccosse, i've done my install to the top box (inc power from fuse box and traffic aerial behind dash). If you want a gander at it with the top box removed, give us a shout. Hardest bit is figuring out how to mount the satnav for use from the top box (currently velcro onto satnav mount upside down).

Best / easiest route for wiring from fusebox to top box is over the top of the fold down storage drawer to the right of the steering wheel under the dash - dead easy to do from the fusebox end. From there drop down under the steering wheel, there's gaps in the trim == super easy to pull cable along there. That brings you out under the top box, very easy to reach down and grab the wire you've fed through under the steering wheel.

I've run my fiscon bluetooth mic, tomtom power and ... something else, i forget, this way. Here's some random pictures that may help.

After removing the top box by levering the bottom / front edge of it, then you need to remove the hazard's cable connector by pushing the clip in.

post-53884-0-70434600-1299459855_thumb.jpg

Using a bit of string to pull another wire through, in the fusebox end, over the drawer i mentioned, visible in this pic.

post-53884-0-65658700-1299459860_thumb.jpg

Under the steering wheel there's an empty bit of trim that acts as a tray for cables safely hidden out of view but easily accessed with your fingers to pull the cable through.

post-53884-0-25251000-1299459865_thumb.jpg

Reach down on the steering wheel side of the dash from the top box to retrieve the cable you've just run, in my case a bit of string.

post-53884-0-31673200-1299459870_thumb.jpg

Taped the tomtom traffic aerial to under the dashboard, don't want any of it rattling under there.

post-53884-0-23906200-1299459874_thumb.jpg

Excellent - many thanks. I'll probably need to wait 'til next weekend before giving it another go - I am just a bit apprehensive about wrecking my new car!

I am not that fussed about semi-permanently mounting the satnav in the top box but would like to try and run all the cables to there so that they are out of sight.

Thanks to ALL for the tips much appreciated.

Cheers.

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  • 3 years later...

Better to ressurect this post than start another.

 

When you prise the topbox out, is the hazard warning cable the only thing stopping you removing the box from the car or are there and clips/pipes to the air vents that have to be undone?

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  • 4 years later...

I suppose I should keep on this topic since it is connected with the dash board store box. I have a second hand SKODA Octavia Break (estate) 2.0 TDI140 CR FAP 4X4 Elegance 2 (can't they keep it simple? I saw the car, I liked the car and I bought the car, and I'm very happy with it BUT not included in the ridiculous name is the fact that the on top dashboard storage box wont click shut every time. I can't determine if it's because it gets hot (I live in SW France) or the spring is weak, or the bit that clicks it shut is worn or it's the God of small parts at work. Following advice in this excellent topic, thanks guys, I was wondering if anyone has had similar experiences and how they fixed, without a hammer!

knick_knack

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It needs to be able to "overclose" and lift back up to the flush position for the mechanism to lock, when my Shatnav was in mine I had to force the lid down to close it or remove the offending item.

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4 minutes ago, J.R. said:

It needs to be able to "overclose" and lift back up to the flush position for the mechanism to lock, when my Shatnav was in mine I had to force the lid down to close it or remove the offending item.

Wow, that was very quick. Thank you so much. I do "overclose" it and it usually works but not usually the first time, sometimes I have to leave it open for a while (5 to 10mins), whether that is for it cool, or for the presumed spring to re-align I could 't say. There's a sweet spot just up on the left hand corner of the lid which sometimes speeds things up, but it's totally unpredictable. It's a distraction having to keep pressing down on the lid when driving. From years of experience, "whacking it" is more likely to make it worse to say nothing of my grinding teeth and purple face. It could be that the previous owner was not so gentle, and I can sympathise. Its a good idea to stick a sat nav in it, how dashing.

knick_knack

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  • 3 weeks later...

It's probably worn out or the previous owner has broken it.  It's an old car now...

 

I doubt it's heat as I'm down in Sydney, AU and my car has been parked on the street for half its life.  It regularly sees 40c ambient and 50c cabin temps.  The dash / top box is doing OK unlike many other parts of the car.

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Thanks Brad. I did manage to remove it and couldn't see anything overly wrong. On replacing the box it seems to be working better so something has re-aligned. You're probably right, I just need to get a new box.

Thanks for taking the time to comment.

 

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