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Need help with the Skoda Octavia 1.9 TDI


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Hey everyone :) this is my first post in this community and I am looking for some help with my Octavia TDI :) I am from India and i own a 1.9 TDI. I bought the vehicle in 2006. Its been 5 years now and after 65000km my vehicle started giving problems. Would like some advice in rectifying the problems

1) Some oil seems to be leaking and it was diagnosed as Rack and pinion leak, and i was suggested to replace the part - any other suggestions ? the part is very costly here in INDIA

2) I had the dry shaft problem and got it rectified by replacing the dry shaft :)

3) My wheels make a screeching noise when i drive the car ( left back wheel to be more precise) what could this noise be ? how do i rectify it :) ( I have recently replaced the brake pads after which i have noticed this noise coming from the rear ) what could have possibly gone wrong ?

4) My engine light seems to be playing hide and seek with me :rofl: ( once the light is on, it wont turn off until its connected to the ECU and the prob is erased) but after the problem is erased, once i raise my car above 2500rpm in any gear, my car seems to lose its breath and again the engine light pops up :( what could be the possible problem ??? the pick up is good but my car is struggling to cross 120kmph mark ( seems like i am chocking the engine to run if i try going past 120kmph)- could this be a major problem ?

5)I have lost my diesel cap - could this be an issue to low mileage and the engine light that comes up on my dash board ???

Please advice me on how to get this car working as good as it was before all these problems started :)

thanks in advance :)

cheers B)

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For the poor running issue, try unplugging the MAF sensor which is located on the large pipe coming from the air filter box. If the engine runs better with it unplugged the MAF sensor is dead.

Did you put some copper grease on the back of the pads when you replaced them? If you didn't that's probably causing the screeching.

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Could the MAF sensor trigger the engine light ??

I shall try today to unplug the sensor and run the vehicle. Also wanted to know if I could run the vehicle with the sensor unplugged ?

I shall remove the pads today and grease them again .

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1) I have no idea about the parts situation in India, but if either the rack or the power steering (ram or pump) is leaking, then you' might well need a replacement part. Here in Europe, it's often possible to get remanufactured parts on exchange for these components (so you effectively pay to get a used but repaired component, and sell the company your leaky one for repair).

3) As Paul suggests, you may have a problem with the pad not being properly adhered to the piston/backplate (adhesive backed pads) or needs coper grease (not applicable to adhesive-backed pads). You might also have a stone stuck between the disc and the dust shield. There's no certain way of diagnosing this except to take the wheel off and have a look between the disc and the (rusty-looking) plate behind it.

4) I know what this sounds like, but it's complex to explain. Some Skoda TDis are equipped with http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable_geometry_turbocharger . Some of these cars (most notably the 110bhp [82kW] engine) suffer from the vanes getting stuck. If you can find a good trustworthy garage, they may be able to dismantle and clean the turbo if this is your problem. Look for fault codes relating to "turbocharger overboost" or similar.

5) I've never heard of a lost filler cap directly causing poor fuel consumption, but it certainly will allow dust into the fuel tank, and could allow fuel to spill out on enthusiastically taken left turns (particularly when the tank's full).

MAF sensors don't usually "throw" an engine light fault. You can run the engine quite safely with the MAF disconnected. It would take a lot of repetition to explain how this works, but if you do a websearch on this site for my user name, MAF and EMS, you'll find an explanation. The basic point is that, if your engine runs better with the MAF disconnected, you need a replacement.

Edited by KenONeill
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Mine is a 66kw 90hp car. As told earlier, I have placed an order for a new rack ( thats leaking ) and that problem will be diagnosed in 10 days from now, the service advisor told me that I could run the vehicle normally with the leaking rack as the leak is minor.

2) As far as the screeching noise is concerned, i planned to dismantle the entire thing and get it fixed again, hope that should sort out the screeching noise problem. I shall get the entire car cleaned before i reinstall the brakes.

3)Today i had no time to disconnect the MAF sensor and i had to take my car out for a 150km drive down the city and I have noticed that even though my accelerator is pressed to the max my car is only doing a max speed of 100kmph and it is struggling to go past 100kmph. The pick up dropped down drastically and the engine light also came up once again. Is this the prob with the MAF or can i expect something seriously wrong with the car ??

The mileage has also dropped down drastically , my car which has been consistently giving me around 17kmpl now is struggling to give me even 10kmpl ( are all these problems connected to one another ? )

thanks for the quick reply :) please suggest me on how to make the car running smooth as it was before all this happened :( :|

Cheers

B) Dash

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3)Today i had no time to disconnect the MAF sensor and i had to take my car out for a 150km drive down the city and I have noticed that even though my accelerator is pressed to the max my car is only doing a max speed of 100kmph and it is struggling to go past 100kmph. The pick up dropped down drastically and the engine light also came up once again. Is this the prob with the MAF or can i expect something seriously wrong with the car ??

The mileage has also dropped down drastically , my car which has been consistently giving me around 17kmpl now is struggling to give me even 10kmpl ( are all these problems connected to one another ? )

That is a good indicator for either MAF or CTS failure, imho.

tbh, if you had time to drive 150kms then you had a few minutes to disconnect the MAF and test to see if the car behaved better. There is only so much help we can give, and that is limited if you don't perform the tests suggested.... A failed, or failing MAF can cause poor acceleration, and cause the car to top out at about 60mph.

When my turbo jammed up I still used to get very good mpg figures.

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I got back home from work and disconnected the MAF sensor and then again took the car out for a drive, these are the few things i observed

1) The engine light still remains ON and the vehicle now accelerates better. I could see about 10-15% increase in pickup and the acceleration also felt smooth.

2) Couldn't test if the car could go above 100kmph but could feel the car easily going upto 60kmph ( earlier i could feel my car struggling to accelerate after 80kmph )

3) Whenever i engage the "Third gear" my gear kicks back now ? - WHY ????? is it an indication that i need to top up gear oils ???

4) Still could not feel the turbo kick in after 2000 rpm, but i could see a noticeable positive difference in the car when i disconnected the MAF sensor.

I wanted to know, how the CTS ( Coolant Temperature sensor - if this is the right one :p ) has anything to do with the mileage of the vehicle ??

What are the possible solutions to rectify my vehicle :) also wanted to know if there is a better replacement for the MAF sensor :)

Thanks

Cheers B)

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I have read that the missing diesel cap could also trigger engine light in the dash board. I bought a cap and fixed it , yet the light in the dash is ON !

is there something i can do to rectify that problem ?

I will get it diagnosed with the VAGCOM tomorrow and will keep you posted on the results !

thanks in advance :)

:thumbup:

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I got back home from work and disconnected the MAF sensor and then again took the car out for a drive, these are the few things i observed

1) The engine light still remains ON and the vehicle now accelerates better. I could see about 10-15% increase in pickup and the acceleration also felt smooth.

2) Couldn't test if the car could go above 100kmph but could feel the car easily going upto 60kmph ( earlier i could feel my car struggling to accelerate after 80kmph )

3) Whenever i engage the "Third gear" my gear kicks back now ? - WHY ????? is it an indication that i need to top up gear oils ???

4) Still could not feel the turbo kick in after 2000 rpm, but i could see a noticeable positive difference in the car when i disconnected the MAF sensor.

I wanted to know, how the CTS ( Coolant Temperature sensor - if this is the right one :p ) has anything to do with the mileage of the vehicle ??

What are the possible solutions to rectify my vehicle :) also wanted to know if there is a better replacement for the MAF sensor :)

Thanks

Cheers B)

1 and 2 ) This sounds like you have a MAF fault.

3) There's no causal link between the 2. There is a gearbox oil check plug on the gearbox casing though. Have a look for newish oil on the casing. Old oil will be dusty looking, but freshly leaked oil will look oily.

4) The turbo "kick" on the TDis happens much sooner than that, about 1200 to 1500rpm. Peak torque on these engines is about 1800, and you need to have full boost to get peak torque.

The CTS could be at fault too, even if the dashboard temperature guage is showing a steady 86 to 90C after 4 or 5 miles of highway driving, because it has 2 channels, one for the guage and a separate one for the EMS. You actually need to use a full VCDS unit to monitor the values the CTS sends out to check this though.

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As with Ken,

Sounds like the MAF is at fault, and the older black CTS can also play up too, so you could consider changing them both in one go, but personally I would do the MAF and then consider the CTS afterwards. Changing both of these is easy. The MAF takes a minute or two, and the CTS can be done in under 10 minutes (including opening the bonnet, removing engine cover, etc).

I believe that once the engine light is triggered on the dash it might well stay on till the fault code for it has been cleared. That may depend on the fault though. Pretty sure I have never seen mine come on (maybe someone removed the bulb from my car!)

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Thanks for the quick reply :) :)

1)Today i took my vehicle to a garage and got the rear break liners replaced and that was enough for the screeching noise :)

2)As you suggested, i replaced the MAF sensor with a new one and could feel a noticeable improvement in the overall ride :) The car easily could go upto 100kmph, din accelerate more though :) but during this phase, i have noticed a small defect

a) My car's pick up has become normal, the turbo is kicking in at around 1300 rpm and it lasts only upto 2500rpm. After that i can feel a sudden struggle for power, after crossing 2500 rpm the turbo kick suddenly stops and it feels as if my car has lost its power, again i have to change to a higher gear to make it feel normal - what kind of a problem is this ????? is this normal after installing a new MAF sensor ???

B) What are the symptoms if the CTS fails ???? Is the problem in "a" related to a probable CTS failure ???

And I have erased my Engine light but after connecting the new MAF sensor also, if i raise my vehicle to rpm's above 3000 - the engine light is automatically switching on :( will replacing the CTS tomorrow solve the problem ???

Hoping the problem to get rectified soon :)

Thanks a lot for the valuable suggestions :)

Cheers :thumbup:

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tomorrow the garage is closed. Hence i will get a chance to get the car scanned day after tomorrow. I will keep you posted on the results of the scan !

BTW is this condition a serious problem for my car ? M really worried as i spent a lot on services already, the 65000 km service itself cost me a fortune and on top of that all these are just adding up to it :(

Will keep you posted after the scan :)

cheers !

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When mine used to overboost / limp-home it was fine until I accelerated hard (the start with at least!), but I get the impression the OP has fault 100% of the time, which points more towards the MAF (at least for the lack of power).

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That could well be sticky vanes in the turbo.

Disconnect the vacuum pipe to the actuator on the turbo (assuming it has a variable vane turbo), and suck on the pipe and see if you get a nice smooth movement or if it is really sticky.

If it moves cleanly then the turbo are probably ok, but if not, then either the vanes are sooted up or the mechanical side of the vanes is rusted up.

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got the turbo checked and the mechanic told me that it was perfectly fine :)

Should i consider changing the CTS today to check if i can find a difference with the change ????

I shall consider checking the fault codes tomorrow when the garage opens :)

Thanks :)

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Hey all . . .

Managed to get the car connected to the VAG.COM and got the car diagnosed and cleared the errors. This is just a temporary fix , here is the detailed VAG.COM report

Total codes : 003

CODE 001 :

17656 P1248 Injection Sporadic : pump fuel metering control (A): range performance

CODE 002 :

19561 P3105 Change -over valve for intake manifold flap -N239: Open or short to ground

CODE 003 :

17552 P1144 : Mass air sporadiac folw (MAF)sensor -G70 :Open short to ground

What should i do now ?

Got the errors erased and now the car is running without the engine light on , but the fuel effeciency has dropped down drastically and it is failing to give more than 7kmpl-8kmpl :(

Please suggest me on what to do :(

thanks in advance :)

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17552 P1144 - Suggests a MAF fault. Were the fault codes cleared before you had a new MAF fitted?

19561 P3105 - probably EGR related, but should not really affect MPGs much

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/19561/P3105/012549

17656 P1248 - This is probably the real issue....

Have a read of this: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17656/P1248/004680

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...17656 P1248 Injection Sporadic : pump fuel metering control (A): range performance...

I've seen this fault many times when the case pressure relief valve comes apart in the fuel pump. This prevents the pump pulling in the timing dynamically. It's easy to fix without removing the pump from the car.

VE_Pressure_regulator_Repair.pdf

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The error was not erased after installing the MAF sensor.

As told, the error 17656 should be the exact problem, the symptoms seem similar to the ones i am facing, drastic drop down in fuel effeciency and power loss is exactly what my car is facing :(

Can i rule out the problem of a CTS failure ?

Also can i rule out the problem of the LIMP MODE ????

How do i go about in diagnosing this problem ?

can i expect better fuel effeciency and power gain after solving this problem ?

Hope it is not a costly affair :)

Thanks

Cheers !

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@ rwbaldwin

I would be giving my car to a local mechanic for rectifying the problem , I would like to know what i need to replace ( if any )

thanks for the INFO :):thumbup:

was very helpful :)

@ mbames

Thanks for all the input you have given me :) I really appreciate the help :) thanks a tonne :) Please guide me on how to go ahead in solving the problem once in for all :)

thanks and regards

:thumbup:

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It would look like your car is not going into limp mode - think of it as a get you home mode, the car knows there is a problem so limits power to try and avoid damage to the engine but still let you drive the car. Limp mode normally doesn't go away until you stop and restat the engine, if you are just seeing a power drop at high revs then it comes back at lower revs then this isn't limp mode. Limp mode feels like you have removed the turbo.

There is a specific fault code for the CTS which you don't have, so I would say that it is probably OK.

Look at the document rbaldwin posted, IIRC if you remove the valve and it comes out in several parts then that should prove it was the problem. It would be interesting to see if it has been removed before, on my car it is marked with yellow paint so you can see if it has been disturbed.

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