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Now can't open the trunk as a hatch


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Hello, guys!

It seems that I need some advice.

New problem with my Superb Greenline 2 Hatach, which is 2 months old now.

When I lock the car from the key button it seems to lock, BUT it’s not confirmed by the light blinking. Normally it should blink (the turning lights, and emergency lights when locked and unlocked).

And now there is another trouble: yesterday I could NOT OPEN THE TRUNK as a hatch. I unlocked the car from the key, there was a blinking of lights, and then I pressed the unlocking button (the right one) under the trunk hood, and - NOTHING! the stop light did not blink (it blinks when you push this button normally) and I could not open the trunk! It still worked with the left trunk unlocking button and from the key button, but I could only open it as sedan…

Today in the morning - the same. I came to work, locked the car – no blinking,… I decided to check if I can open the trunk as hatch – NO, again it does not open…. So this 2 issues are somehow connected.

The problem described above do not happen every time. So when I come next time to service and they check it – it might work just fine, but when I come back home – again the same problem.

Any suggestions, please?

thanks a lot in advance for any helpful feedback!

Edited by Greenliner
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When you press the remote button to unlock the car, are you pressing it once (to unlock the driver's door) or twice (all doors)?

Ray

Well, I've checked all the buttons and combinations, for example unlocking just the trunk from the keys. No luck.

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2 months old? See the dealer and use your warranty.

Last time when I was at the dealer's with the previous faults, I've mentioned that every now and then when I lock the car the lights don't blink. Unfortunately when they checked it all the lights blinked, and I was told that they don't see any problems... The same now with the trunk - most probably I'll come and they won't see any problems, because, like I've stated in the first post, they are not present all the time, that's why actually I decided to ask for advice here, because I cannot afford going to the workshop numerous times until finally the problem shows up right there.

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Unfortunately intermitant faults are extremely hard to find, I know from over 40 years in the trade. Also another problem is that the newer younger, I use the word mechanics loosely, when looking for electrical faults only know how to plug in and read a screen, if no fault shows as far as they are concerned there is no fault. Try and find a garage that has some older fitters experience counts.

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Unfortunately intermitant faults are extremely hard to find, I know from over 40 years in the trade. Also another problem is that the newer younger, I use the word mechanics loosely, when looking for electrical faults only know how to plug in and read a screen, if no fault shows as far as they are concerned there is no fault. Try and find a garage that has some older fitters experience counts.

On the other hand, there is the old one, when there is an electrical fault they are totally newbies... And they never learn :/

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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UPD: just noticed that when the lights don't blink and I can't open the "hatch" trunk, there is another symptom: when I close the trunk as sedan I hear only 1 motor sound, not 2. I mean, before I could hear first one type of motor sound and actually could see the trunk closing tightly, and afterwards another sound, much more loud, and it was actual locking. Now there is only first sound, and I can't be even sure that my trunk is properly locked and won't open while I’m driving...

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The second motor noise will be that of the lock actuator that locks the two doors into one, ready for opening as a hatchback. Because that's not working, you can't operate the right-hand switch. It probably affects the blink confirmation also when it's faulty. I suppose it could be a loose wire somewhere, but my bet would be on a control unit failing. I'm amazed that the dealer can't find any faults logged.

Ray

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The second motor noise will be that of the lock actuator that locks the two doors into one, ready for opening as a hatchback. Because that's not working, you can't operate the right-hand switch. It probably affects the blink confirmation also when it's faulty. I suppose it could be a loose wire somewhere, but my bet would be on a control unit failing. I'm amazed that the dealer can't find any faults logged.

Ray

Thanks a lot for such a clear explanation! I guess you are absolutely right, now I can explain the problem better to the dealer.

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Funny on the Octavia when I press to close the car and does not blink it´s because one of the doors is not closed properly.

And it does blink if I press to open the car on the same instante.

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They should have just made it a full hatch in the first place, I can see the twin system being the weakest link, a few more years down the line

  • Like 1
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello!

My first posting on Briskoda - a great source of information.

I had exactly the same problem on my one year old Superb Greenline 1.9, intermittent hatch / boot operation and locking.

It was also the same with the remote locking occasionally not "beeping" when the car was locked.

It went in to my local Skoda garage and came out fixed as Skoda reportedly have issued a bulletin on this.

On enquiring what the fix was I was told the boot had been correctly adjusted - but on looking I have found the main thing done was a small length of thick fabric tape has been added to the boot clasp so when the boot is closed it more firmly operates the boot closed limit switch which is found on the upper right hand side behind the spring closed cover plate.

I have had no trouble since the fix, and no other trouble at all with the car which I think is great - lots of room and economic too!

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Hello!

My regards to all superb owners and of course thanks for important info.

Have exactly same problem with my twin door.

Boot opens sometimes ;) and rarely when I need.

I have visit the dealer twice already; next week again.

Unfortunately, boot was working last time :)) hopefully not next week!

Think that those electric specialists are hopeless and I am sure that for this problem mast be some easy repair.

So as I understand you, the problem will be fixed by applying some thick tape to the microswitch?

Thanks in advance!

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Hi Petar,

The fault on my boot as described above appears to be the microswitch behind the spring cover in the middle of the rear panel where the boot lock latches into.

If you push the silver cover plate down you can operate the switch manually, its inside on the upper right hand side.

S7000768.jpg

The thick tape is put around the lock so as it is closed it more positivly operates the switch. I'm unaware if anything further was done but I know this was added at the dealership to fix my problem.

S7000767.jpg

I hope the images above come out OK, its all new to me!

Let us know how you get on. Best of luck.

Jason

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Hello Jason,

Thanks you very much for the help and for your time.

I am positive that tape will resolve this. It mast be the micro switch.

Otherwise, I am doomed with those specialists next week :)))

Regards,

Petar

Edited by Petar
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When it comes to electrical issues, the car dealers should hire a atleast one real Electro-Mechanic. Normal auto mechanics are just not fit for such a job. :no:

They look blindly at the factory delivered diagnostics equipment and follows it as some people would follow their new GPS unit.

Sometimes logic, and real experience with electrical systems (coupled with the input from the factory equipment) is the best way to go.

Edited by tomcatdk
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Hello!

Today I've left the car in the garage for fixing the trunk issue. They've just called and informed that they fixed it somehow, tested, and it worked for a while but not much longer(. Now they plan to change the whole "electric module"...Luckily they've got one in another garage.

They want me to bring them the second remote key for recoding, and the car will spend the whole day tomorrow at the dealer's. Does anyone know what might be the negative consequences of changing the whole electric module, if any of course?)

Thanks a lot in advance for your replies!

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Hello!

Today I've left the car in the garage for fixing the trunk issue. They've just called and informed that they fixed it somehow, tested, and it worked for a while but not much longer(. Now they plan to change the whole "electric module"...Luckily they've got one in another garage.

They want me to bring them the second remote key for recoding, and the car will spend the whole day tomorrow at the dealer's. Does anyone know what might be the negative consequences of changing the whole electric module, if any of course?)

Thanks a lot in advance for your replies!

upd: these funny people just called back again and said that they've managed to fix it, and that just some "small switch" was not working properly. I can get my car today)).

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upd: these funny people just called back again and said that they've managed to fix it, and that just some "small switch" was not working properly. I can get my car today)).

Adventures continue: I've got my car "repaired" in the evening, opened the hatch trunk once - works smoothly. Decided to double check - no luck with the second trial... Had to left the car for one more day at the serice. Lets see what happens today).

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Adventures continue: I've got my car "repaired" in the evening, opened the hatch trunk once - works smoothly. Decided to double check - no luck with the second trial... Had to left the car for one more day at the serice. Lets see what happens today).

WTF?

Change Skoda repair shop.

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Adventures continue: I've got my car "repaired" in the evening, opened the hatch trunk once - works smoothly. Decided to double check - no luck with the second trial... Had to left the car for one more day at the serice. Lets see what happens today).

Finally they did it, the issue is fixed! They've installed a small piece (2*1cm) of soft material in the same place that Greenliner1 shows on his first photo, and I can see that plenty of grease has been used as well. Now, when the motor connects the sedan trunk with the rear window, it's possible to see how the glass moves a little bit downwards. In a similar way the trunk moves downwards a bit when the locking motor works. Actually, before I haven't been noticing any movement of the glass itself, only the loud sound of the second motor (much louder than the first one). However, the twindoor now works just fine).

Could someone please check if his rear window moves while it's being connected to the trunk door?))) I would really appreciate. Because if it should not move, than I'll point their attantion on it later on.

Thanks a lot for assistance and comments!

Edited by Greenliner
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  • 1 month later...

Finally they did it, the issue is fixed! They've installed a small piece (2*1cm) of soft material in the same place that Greenliner1 shows on his first photo, and I can see that plenty of grease has been used as well. Now, when the motor connects the sedan trunk with the rear window, it's possible to see how the glass moves a little bit downwards. In a similar way the trunk moves downwards a bit when the locking motor works. Actually, before I haven't been noticing any movement of the glass itself, only the loud sound of the second motor (much louder than the first one). However, the twindoor now works just fine).

Could someone please check if his rear window moves while it's being connected to the trunk door?))) I would really appreciate. Because if it should not move, than I'll point their attantion on it later on.

Thanks a lot for assistance and comments!

upd: the insulation came off after a while, and I had to return back). Now they've sticked another piece, much smaller, thicker and with rounded corners. Lets see how long this one will last:)

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