Xenon Headlight Replacement

[AJB1]

The Passenger side headlight has just turned rather pink.

60,000 miles, 4.5 years.

I think this means I am going to need to replace it PDQ.

Questions:

1) DIY? Dealer? Independent Skoda Specialist ? (How Hard?)

2) How much ?

3) Do one ? Do both ?

MITA

A.

[infoschumi]

DIY,5 minutes max,easy job.

-Pop up the bonnet,remove the round rubber component behind the headlight

-disconnect the wires

-remove the xenon bulb(I think you are supposed to rotate it)

-remove the plastic circle from the old bulb and put it to the next one(you will figure out which one when you get it out)

-refit the bulb(only one possible position,so don't worry about mounting it in a wrong one)

-plug the connector

-put back the rubber component and close the bonnet.

[AJB1]

Is there any need to check adjustment or alignment afterwards ?

[Danny 57]

All factory fit xenon system are self leveling as required for the mot. When you switch on the lights (at night) you will see them adjust.

Edited 11 July, 2012 by Danny 57

[artichoke273]

DIY or dealer depends on your thoughts on risk and how steady your hands are. I've not done one myself (only had the car a month) but I wanted to find out and post it here in case I need to change one in the middle of nowhere (like France), and I'll know where to find the info.

There's all sorts of warnings to skim through, which for some reason I feel I should post here in case someone finds this from Google and has a go unprepared:

Mortal high voltage flows through the control units for light system, connectors or parts of lamp base.

The control unit for gas discharge lamp must never be operated without gas discharge lamp.

The battery earth strap must be disconnected before working on the parts of the gas discharge headlight marked with the yellow high voltage symbols (this does not apply if the gas discharge lamp is removed from an already disassembled headlight, e.g. on Octavia ll).

Then switch the low beam light on and off again. Thus remaining voltage is discharged.

The gas discharge lamp must only be operated in the headlight housing due to the high voltage (over 28000 V when igniting the gas discharge lamp).

Glass and bulbs can be very hot - risk of burning!

Do not look directly into the ray of light because the intensity of the UV ray of the gas discharge lamp is approx. 2.5 times greater than that of the usual halogen light. The visual power can be impaired for a long period.

Avoid contact with exploded glass.

Halogen bulbs and gas discharge lamps (Xenon/bi-xenon) are pressurized and can burst when changing the bulb - risk of injury!

Always wear protective goggles and gloves for removing and installing halogen bulbs and gas discharge lamps.

Do not touch the glass bulb with bare fingers when changing the gas discharge lamps, use clean material gloves. The remaining finger print would evaporate through the heat of the switched on bulb and condense on the reflector, which impairs the luminosity of the headlight.

Replace defective gas discharge lamp with a gas discharge lamp of the same version. The designation is on the lamp base or on the glass bulb.

Lock plug connections correctly in place when installing and pay attention to correct fitting of the connection.

Gas discharge lamps must be disposed of as hazardous waste, they do not belong to the usual household waste.

Gas discharge lamps contain metallic mercury (Hg) and traces of thallium.

Do not destroy gas discharge lamps, avoid contact with exploded glass.

Observe the disposal instructions, dispose of gas discharge lamps only in the provided reservoirs at a proper collection point.

Still with me....

Instructions

Note: When installing the rubber caps, pay attention to the correct fitting. Water ingress can destroy the headlight.

Removing

– Switch off the ignition and all electrical components.

– Unplug the connector from the headlight.

– Remove rubber cap for headlight.

– Press the peg at the plug for unlocking and remove the plug towards the bottom.

– Turn discharge lamp with ignition unit by approx. 45° and remove from the headlight housing.

– Press the catch on the socket holding the lamp, open the socket and take out the discharge lamp.

Installing

Installation is performed in the reverse order.

It then points you to a section on checking beam allignment .... which is complicated to say the least and the tests imply that it still needs to be performed for gas discharge lamps:

Inspecting headlight beam setting and adjusting if necessary

Special tools and workshop equipment required: Headlight beam setting device

In principle the following inspection and setting description applies for all countries. However, comply with national guidelines and legislation of the relevant country. ? Operating instructions of the headlight beam setting device

Test and setting conditions

Tyre inflation pressure o.k.

Lenses must neither be damaged nor soiled.

Reflectors and bulbs o.k.

Vehicle load must be achieved.

Load: With a person or 75 kg on the driver's seat in an otherwise unladen vehicle (dead weight).

The unladen weight is the weight of the vehicle with full fuel tank (at least 90%) including the weight of all the operational equipment elements (e.g. spare wheel, tool kit, jack etc.).

If the fuel tank is not filled up to at least 90%, the load must be set as follows:

– Determine the fuel volume in the fuel tank on the fuel gauge.

– Load vehicle with corresponding weight via the fuel tank according to the following table:

Fuel gauge Weight (kg)

Reserve 36

1/4 31

1/2 19

3/4 7

Tank full 0

Note Use as weight e.g. plastic tanks filled with water or canisters. 1 liter of water = 1 kg.

When fitting the weight onto the rear seat pay special attention so that the seat upholsteries are not dirty or damaged.

The vehicle must have rolled a few metres or have been depressed a few times at the front and rear to allow the springs to settle.

The vehicle and the headlight beam setting device must be on a level surface.

Align the vehicle and the headlight beam setting device in accordance with the instructions of the device manufacturer.

Check the control system of vehicles equipped with headlight beam control by repeatedly turning the thumbwheel in the dash panel. Then turn the thumbwheel to basic position.

For vehicles equipped with adaptive headlights (Xenon) perform first of all the basic setting. Select »body«, »Electrical System«, »dynamic headlight leveling system with AFS« and further »functions«»basic setting« ? Vehicle diagnostic tester.

Set the inclination value ? Anchor.

Inclination value:

The inclination value is marked in „%“ at the top of the headlight housing, next to the adjusting bolts. The main headlights must be set to this value. The percentage value applies up to 10 metres projection distance. This will be 10 cm for an inclination value of e.g. 1,0 %.

Inspecting headlight beam setting and adjusting if necessary

Main headlights:

– Check whether the horizontal light/dark limit touches the separation mark -1- on the test surface when the low beam light is on.

– Check whether the kink -2- between the left horizontal part and the ascending right part of the light/dark limit intersects with the central mark -3- on the vertical line. The light core of the light beam must be located to the right of the vertical line.

Note To easily determine the kink -2- alternately cover and uncover the left half of the headlight (in the driving direction) a few times. After this, check the low beam once again.

Once the low beam light has been correctly set, the centre of the light beam of the main beam must be positioned on the central mark -3-.

The adjustment foreseen for the new control screen also applies for the previous one, which has a 15° adjusting line. To avoid incorrect settings disregard the 15° adjusting line.

Fog lights ? Chapter

– Check whether the light/dark limit touches the adjusting line and runs horizontally over the total width of the control screen.

Other additional headlights:

Additionally fitted headlights must be inspected or set in compliance with the relevant applicable directives.

...... you get the idea. So, personally I'll be changing the bulb and taking it along to the dealer when I get home. I'm probably the most cynical person I know, but I realise now why they don't tell you in the manual how to change the xenon bulbs. Either that or all this is nonsense and exists only to justify them charging £50 to change a light bulb.

[infoschumi]

£50 ? :wonder:

As mentioned previously,there is no need for adjustment or alignment after you install the new bulb.There is only one position,you just can't go wrong.The only problem is if you try to change the bulb when it's lit,but you must be really stupid to do that,and even then,there is very small chance to get electrocuted as everything is insulated very very well.Also,the voltage is not deadly as they say,28000V it's nothing compared to teaser guns which operate at 300.000-500.000V,the current is deadly(Amperes),not the voltage(volts).

[Danny 57]

It only takes about 45mA to give your heart problems but it is how much voltage that is behind it that will make the difference.

Imagine standing in a foot or two (32 or 64cm) of slow moving water (12v) no problem because your resistance to being knocked over is high. Try standing in the same depth of water which is fast flowing (240v and above) and you will probably fall over and be washed away!

[Flying Scotsman]

Agree with infoschumi.

My offside bulb stopped working last week and like others I was concerned about all the hype on high voltage etc. etc.

When I checked the bulb it had actually 'exploded' so first job was to 'manufacture' a small piece of narrow tubing to attach to a vacuum cleaner and suck out the debris from inside the lens.

After that, a short blast with a warm hairdryer to makes sure everything inside the lens was dry.

Bulb replacement itself as described by infoschumi (thanks for the help infoschumi!) was straight-forward and all seems to be working fine.

In summary, if you take sensible precautions e.g. wear rubber gloves, don't touch the bulb etc. it shouldn't be a problem and certainly doesn't justify paying over £100 for dealer-fitting.

- I bought 2 x oem bulbs for £32.99 from autobahn style on ebay and didn't even disconnect the battery or remove fuses before carrying out the procedure.

Hope this helps anyone else facing the same issue!

[gianthotdog]

It's not voltage that will harm you, it's the current (amps) that will cause damage.

The current is basically the strength or speed of the volts passing through a fixed point. The depth of the water in Danny 57's example is the voltage and is a constant for the purpose of his example. The speed of the water is the current and it is this which will cause serious injury.

Car batteries are only 9-14volts, the same as a duracel but supply massive currents. They need the high currents to get components like starter motors going. A 9v duracel will give you a shock if you short it, a 9v car battery can kill if shorted accidentally!!

DO NOT THINK THAT LOW VOLTAGE IS SAFE!!

[toni8b]

On 11/07/2012 at 10:51, infoschumi said:

DIY,5 minutes max,easy job.

-Pop up the bonnet,remove the round rubber component behind the headlight

-disconnect the wires

-remove the xenon bulb(I think you are supposed to rotate it)

-remove the plastic circle from the old bulb and put it to the next one(you will figure out which one when you get it out)

-refit the bulb(only one possible position,so don't worry about mounting it in a wrong one)

-plug the connector

-put back the rubber component and close the bonnet.

Any pictured guide on this?