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How to - Mk1 Octavia halogen - xenon conversion


K17KEO

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Over the last few weeks ive been working on fitting DEPO xenon headlights to my Mk1 Octavia VRS. I looked at genuine units but seemed far too expensive just to have xenons. I took some pics as i was doing it so thought i would put a bit of a guide together incase anyone else would like to have a go :happy: Its my first guide, Ill try my best lol

Parts req

images_CAMO32_GY.jpg

N/S & O/S DEPO xenon headights, Total cost around £100 on ebay

2 x original halogen looms(got some from scrappy to save mine) cost few £'s

2 x xenon looms(supplied with DEPO's)

H7/D2s xenon/HID kit,around £30 on ebay

H1 & H3 for fog/main beam, few £'s

Tools req

Side cutters

Soldering iron

Heat shrink to suit cable

Solder

Step one

Get your halogen looms and cut off the H4 connector, Its the white one in this pic. Leave the three wires around 100mm long(white, yellow and brown)

orig_loom_uncut.jpg

Step 2

Cut the long grey, white and brown wires from the xenon loom. These are feeds for fog light and main beam

wires_cut_off_main_fog.jpg

Step 3

Remove the xenon loom from the light casing and insert haolgen loom(Connector just clips out)

orig_loom_in_casing.jpg

Should have something like this

loom_cut_intalled.jpg

Step 4

Using sidecutters/wire strippers, strip the 6 ends of the wires.

Tin each end with flux cored solder.

Slide 20mm length of head shrink over each wire as far away from joint as possible(heat will start to shrink it if it gets too hot)

Step 5

Grab your HID kit, It has an input lead and output to bulb

I used a D2s HID kit so I cut the input plug off.

Strip the outer insulation to reveal a black and red wire.

Strip the ends of these two wires as prep as in step 4

Step 6

I decided to mount the HID ballast to the rear of the light casing. I just positioned the ballast in the best place, marked through, drilled and bolted with the bolts in the kit

20120720_142129.jpg

Step 7

Solder the wires as follows

White ---- White

Yellow ---- Red(HID)

Brown ---- Black(HID)

Brown ---- Brown

Grey ---- Grey

Then slide heatshrink over the joint and heat

As seen in this pic

20120720_200855.jpg

Step 8

Thats the loom done, Now just need to connect to the correct bulbs and screw the casing to the headlight :-)

Note- These have no adjustment motors fitted, I havent decided how i will do this. A few suggestions have been use cable ties tempory or make a new bracket for halogen motor.

Hope this is some help, Could have done with more pics but you get the idea

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  • 2 months later...

i've recently went down this route but ordered my passengers side headlight to be informed they have ran out of stock, but can you update us with whats been going on in the last couple of months

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  • 1 month later...

Did you have to modify the indicator stalk at all? I remeber I had to do this to my Audi (B5) to stop the HID bulbs going out when you use main beam as it's not very good for the ballasts for them to be clicking on and off all the time.

Just curious as I am thinking upgrading to HID as well.

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Just looking at the wiring, if it was negative switched surely bridging the negatives would iluminate both bulbs all the time?

After some research it seems the best way to achieve having the dipped beam on all the time would be to take power from pin 7 of the headlight switch to power the dipped beam rather than the stalk (just like the Golf does), as can be seen from this diagram http://mit.edu/dennis/www/vw/switch.html.

Has anyone tried this?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just looking at the wiring, if it was negative switched surely bridging the negatives would iluminate both bulbs all the time?

After some research it seems the best way to achieve having the dipped beam on all the time would be to take power from pin 7 of the headlight switch to power the dipped beam rather than the stalk (just like the Golf does), as can be seen from this diagram http://mit.edu/denni.../vw/switch.html.

Has anyone tried this?

Yes, did it on my previous Bora and on my Octavia. Ran a wire from the back of the light switch to the fuse box. I think that the wire at the fuse box end is yellow with a green tracer.

Edit - I believe that I connected to pin 8 though (used a wiring diagram supplied by VW).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Cool thanks, well I've got ELSAWIN so I'll have a gander at the wiring and go down this route. Just received my depo lights so will have a crack at this soon!

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  • 2 weeks later...

do the depos not have adjustment facility? or no motors fitted?

they have the headlight adjustment motor mount, but not motors, i try'd retro fitting the old standard motors, but they dont fit in any way, so zip ties it was :D

But Beam pattern is Awesome, no more peps flashing me cause of hids in old headlights, and 100w fullbeam for the back roads, just awesome

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I think I am right in saying that oe xenon motors have 4 wires and i believe work as a stepper motor as they continually adjust on the move. It is not that hard to fit original level motors, you just need a bit of patience, and lots of heavy things to throw when it doesn't go as you want. :rofl:

Cost of oe xenon motor is not cheap I'm afraid, but then nothing oe xenon is.

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hi Phil, was hoping you would reply! so how far have you got? yes didnt think of that, kufatec sell the levelling kits iirc, i wonder if they include motors....(he leaves to go look at kufatecs site!)

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ok no would be the answer to that then!

kit comes with wiring and levelling sensors, but not motors for the headlights, also they are about £350 for the kit!

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My lights are completely done, have now got a pair of headlampwash jets, and am bidding on a larger bottle and pump. Going to get jet housings sprayed when the weather gets more sensible, and the temperature eases off enough to let me bend in the cold to actually fit it all.

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Yes, I have the halogen levellers in my lamps at the moment, although eventual plan is to go self level from an appropriate donor car at a semi sensible price. At least this way I have control of the beam direction when loaded. Look at Gee's thread, you swop over/modify the looms in the lamps to retain the correct loom-lamp connection, which lets you retain the wiring for the standard level motors. Just dont throw the depo looms away if you eventually intend to go self level like me.

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Sorry for delay in reply mate, they are at my son's team bodyshop at the moment - was using their plastic welding gear for another secret squirrel project, so did them there. seemed simpler to leave them there as they will be fitting and painting the bumper jets for me. Will pm you when they are accessible as they are burried behind a load of Focus panels at the moment :rofl: .

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  • 3 weeks later...

The plugs come out of the headlamps rather than pushing in if that makes sense, the lugs that hold the plug in run along the longer axis of the plug, and can be a little stiff to squeeze when they are new.

Play a hairdrier over the lamp for about a minute to soften the plastic strength of the plug and it gets a little easier, you can just get your fingers on the plug through the reflector opening in the lamp body.

All of this is hugely easier with the lamp out of the car and on a flat surface in front of you.

Hope it helps

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