vrs - pop + loss of power, but not the usual hose issue......

[Lofty79]

never seen it before mate. And have done many. But firsts are frequent too.

[Phil-E]

Seems very strange this has happened right after a cambelt change.

Was it running fine before this pop and loss of power?

There definitely no whoosy/hissing noises like escaping air?

Check all the vacuum pipes and the connections to the control unit. Mine had a couple that had broken off and also the vacuum accumulator ball on the front of the engine was broken too.

Phil

[A Woodster]

No running issues at all before the 'pop' and had been running fine ever since the cambelt change 2weeks or so ago (in daily use).

Took it to garage this AM to have codes checked and now left it there.

Was showing low boost code and a MAF short to ground code, but I am thinking that these are both a symptom of the lack of boost rather than a cause.

May be the MAF sensor, but did not seem to be the case on my test drive last night - the MIL didn't come on until I took the car from low revs right up to 3000rpm or so to see if there was any boost anywhere in the rev range, this seemed to trigger the diagnostic.

Garage could also hear no evidence of whoshing type air leak and also mentioned that engine sounded like it was running very well (apart from lack of turbo/boost noise!).

I think that the mechanical squeal that i occasionally heard before may be something the controller is trying to do to the turbo vanes when it sees no boost.

Will now sit here and wait for the dreaded call from the garage................

Andy

Edited 20 August, 2012 by A Woodster

[Lofty79]

Maf sensor is normally a first port of call for most running issues on a vag engine.

[Jonny5ive]

Whish garage did you take it to in Glos? Just curious.

[A Woodster]

Car was cambelt changed and is currently at Auditechnik in Gloucester.

They have confirmed that there are no boost leaks at all and everything looks ok on inspection.

They have managed to repeat the mechanical squealing noise which they confirmed doesn't sound nice and is coming from the turbo!!

Next step when the engine is cool is for them to inspect induction and then exhaust turbines on turbo.

Seems too much of a coincidence that belt change was only done a couple of weeks ago - am worried that something may have got into or dropped into the boost hoses when they were disconnected and it has now been sucked into the engine and smashed up the turbine on the way out, no other engine probs though.

Andy

[A Woodster]

There is another specialist garage in the area that i actively avoid due to multiple previous problems with them - it is defo not with them and will bite my tongue to avoid publicly shaming them! ;-)

[A Woodster]

So on the assumption that I need a new turbo, any advice on best steps/approach to take? My thoughts so far are below:

> Try to conclude what has caused the damage and fix the root cause

> Remove all bits of broken turbo vanes or shaft etc... from all the induction system ducting (depending on which side had failure)

> Replace oil pipes when new turbo fitted

> Replace any applicable gaskets

> Oil and filter change (with flush) when car returned to be sure that any residual bits are hopefully out of oil system

> Anything else....?????

Andy

[A Woodster]

oh yeah, the other question that I am probably going to need to ask you guys (when/if they confirm turbo failure) is whether I should go for remanned, exchange or new turbo, opinions please??!

I know that pros/cons with each and there is a clear sliding scale on cost, but any particular one a clear winner if not too worried about a few extra quid here or there?

Cheers

Andy

[A Woodster]

Hi All

An update from today - garage has now inspected both sides of turbo and confirmed that both turbines are fine however there is massive/excessive play in shaft which suggests that shaft has broken or bearing gone etc.... Either way a new turbo is needed!

No idea on causes at this stage without a full tear-down, but based on the care and respect i give my car i can only think that it either has a oil flow issue to the turbo (unlikely as would have caused an issue before now) or maybe it had a tough start of life with previous owner(s) and has been gradually degrading since until shaft just went, or is a complete one-off failure (no such thing in my book though!).

Would really appreciate some advice on a few things:

> Am tempted to try to get a brand new turbo to fit if one is available quick for a price I am happy with - any recommendations on where to source one?

> Any ideas on other causes I may be facing here for the shaft/bearing damage?

> Any other checks that need doing or additional parts that need fitting when new turbo goes on? (if vanes are fine and is just an issue with shaft then feels unlikely that any bits would be sat in the induction system)

Thanks as always

Andy

[A Woodster]

Been doing some research tonight on new turbos, seems that there are 3 types for the VRS.

I know i need to get the p/n off the current part to be sure, but is there something simple or model year related approach that determines which of these three it would be:?

BV39 (VNT??)

K39

GT1749V

Cheers

Andy

[Lofty79]

what is your engine code?

[A Woodster]

Is a ASZ i believe.

Skoda dealer reckons correct oe part number is 038253010TX which is a BorgWarner part.

Getting garage where the car is to check......

Have a quote for a brand new part for £450+VAT so for the sake of time (and the risk that a repair won't be possible with a damaged core), I think i am going to go for that.

Andy

[NoSmokeNoPoke]

There is loads on turbos on this forum. Basically the VRS came stock with a KKK branded unit. You can fit the stonger and better known Garrett unit from a vw/audi 1.9tdi though if you get the correct code. Then you have the option of the PD130 Garrett turbo, or the PD150. Both are a straight swap using the same pipework etc.

720855 or GT1749VA is the PD130 unit.

721021 or GT1749VB is the PD150 unit.

the PD130 unit cam on 130bhp models, and you guessed it, the PD150 came on the 150bhp cars. Slight difference in impeller measurements, but casing is the same.

Edited 22 August, 2012 by NoSmokeNoPoke

[Richard-vrs]

Call turbodynamics they have the garret pd150 and pd130 in stock all time. Tell them its for asz abd they will do the alteration that needs doing to it so it fits and they have next day delivery service. And there a company in west yorkshire they did a garret hybrid quite cheap but you had to send in your old turbo.

[Lofty79]

Is a ASZ i believe.

Skoda dealer reckons correct oe part number is 038253010TX which is a BorgWarner part.

Getting garage where the car is to check......

Have a quote for a brand new part for £450+VAT so for the sake of time (and the risk that a repair won't be possible with a damaged core), I think i am going to go for that.

Andy

Make sure they replace the oil feed pipes, and fill the turbo with oil properly before starting. Remove crank sensor and they can turn it over a bit to fill the turbo

[A Woodster]

Thanks all.

Confirmed OE part number with dealer based on chassis number. Ordered a new OEM part from Turboactive (seem very good) for £400+vat, pretty happy with that price.

If oil feed pipes are confirmed to be clear and gaskets are changed, do the pipes really need to be changed??

Cheers

Andy

[Lofty79]

just dont want any short cuts if this is yet another turbo. I used liqui moly hydraulic lifter treatment once and within a couple of weeks my turbo sounded much nicer, im assuming sludge had gathered and was cleared by this stuff. Just a recommendation, not necessary

[Cable91]

Does boost come back when you restart the engine?

[Cable91]

I had a loss of power like it wasn't boosting but after restarting the engine it seemed fine? Any ideas

[Cable91]

Does boost come back when you restart the engine?

[Cable91]

Hi I was out giving the fabia a rally round I had a sudden loss of power like it wouldn't boost.. I switched off the engine restarted it then the car was fine again.. any ideas? Thanks

[andsoutham]

When you lost the power did you get an EML light on the dash? Has it had a remap?