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I hope you're still here Joel? I am planning to fit the same wiring to mine (following a towbar fitting debacle mentioned elsewhere) and your guide above is first class. The only bit I would like some more advice on is the routing from the module to the 13-pin plug at the towbar. I gather there is a grommet that needs to be removed on the underside of the car, and that the wiring kit comes with its own grommet? Then how does the cable run to the plug? Is it secured once outside the car? And do you think I could run this with the bumper still in place... you see I have the bar fitted now but no wiring. Oh, and did you disconnect the battery, or just plug it in live? It has been suggested that I attach the earth first, before the connector plugs...?

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I hope you're still here Joel? I am planning to fit the same wiring to mine (following a towbar fitting debacle mentioned elsewhere) and your guide above is first class. The only bit I would like some more advice on is the routing from the module to the 13-pin plug at the towbar. I gather there is a grommet that needs to be removed on the underside of the car, and that the wiring kit comes with its own grommet? Then how does the cable run to the plug? Is it secured once outside the car? And do you think I could run this with the bumper still in place... you see I have the bar fitted now but no wiring. Oh, and did you disconnect the battery, or just plug it in live? It has been suggested that I attach the earth first, before the connector plugs...?

 Hey mate,

 

If you look at photo 17, just before I start puting panels back in,, you can see the cable runs down to the grommet in the left hand side. The bracket that the 13 pin plug mounts on is a seperate peice. It actually allows the plug to swing down into place. It then swings up out of the way when the hitch is removed and the cover on. Without the bracket on the plug fit through the hole and there is another grommet that is part of the loom itself.

 

Happy Days.

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Cheers; I see what you mean.

Did you secure the cable outside the car (between the grommet and the 13 pin plug)?

And did you just plug it all in without disconnecting the battery?

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Cheers; I see what you mean.

Did you secure the cable outside the car (between the grommet and the 13 pin plug)?

And did you just plug it all in without disconnecting the battery?

 I can't remember how I secured it. Everything came in the kit.

 

Yep, Just plugged it in. I did have the ignition and accesorys turned off.

 

You still need the vehicle prorgammed for the rear park sensors to turn off.

 

Happy Days

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  • 2 years later...

Anyone know the price of the fill in piecefor the bumper that you can buy from Skoda?

Can't see it's really necessary that low down at the back but might finish it off if it doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

Also it's a 2014 what sort of electrics do I need for 13 pin euro connection?

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On mine the in-fill panel was made from the bit that is cut from the bumper. The markings are moulded into it, but you need the strengthening frame around it.

 

I presume the card doesn't have "tow bar prep"? If it doesn't you will need the full loom from the front to the back of the car. From experience of others either buy the proper Skoda kit or the Westphalia one. Generic ones have been known to cause problems.

Do NOT buy a by-pass relay wiring kit. Fitting one of those does not allow the car to be reprogrammed and can cause problems.

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Here is the back of my cover (part numbers?) I don't know if it will help. This came part of the official kit. 

 

 

IMG_0038.JPG

Edited by RS939
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Hi all we have the factory fitted tow bar W/H , i have to be quite brutal to remove and replace the cover ! is this usual or ????  feels wrong ..

 

We are very pleased with the Yeti that replaced the Golf GT TDI .as the Yeti has a better towing weight  , although the performance figures were the same for both engines the Yeti seems to lack the power of the Golf , i realize that the Yeti is a little heavier but ? also i think that maybe  the ratios are lower giving more flexibility at all times , while towing we were averaging 33.4 mpg over 200 miles and a maximum of 60 mph on mixed roads , we both enjoy the higher seating position and general comfort of the car, also like the forum .

 

Cheers 

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OK so started fitting my tow bar today, I've done the easy bit now I need to get the wiring from the back to the front of the car, I've got the trim all out of the boot and I'm trying to get the trim pieces off along the sill inside! whats the secret? I can't shift em.

 

Edit to add the price of the infill piece for the bumper is £30.30 and the part number is

5L6 807 499 AU34  I've gone with cutting a smaller hole as per the Witter Instructions and I'll see how this looks.

It's within the markings of the Skoda infill so I can always change it later 

IMG_0567.JPG

IMG_0570.JPG

Edited by Yeti333
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Just a couple of photos in case they are of any use for any body in the future.

The sill trims are removed vertically, the picture is inverted and shows the clips.

Not a job to under take lightly! swapping wires in the fuse box is one of the worst bits, there must be a special tool that does it easily but I really struggled.

And no where did it tell you to slide the purple part at the back to unlock it.

Nothing is really difficult, but when you're not familiar with how all the trims come apart it just take ages.

 

Now I just need to borrow VAG com from a friend and code it.

Sill trim.JPG

Yeti tow.jpg

Yeti dash.JPG

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So I've had a go at the coding.

I followed this guide on you tube:-

 

But I've also found this on Ross tech:-

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Trailer_Hitch_Retrofitting_(1K)

 

Not sure how much of the Ross tech guide is relevant? tried some parts of it and there doesn't seem to be any options to change?

Tried pluging in the van and it all works and the reversing sensors are showing the trailer.

I don't seem to be getting the beeper with the indicators (only tried with ignition on not engine running)

Should I be getting beeping with the indicators or does the bulb failure system take care of it?

 

 

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There is no beeping for the indicators as the bulb failure system takes care of the legalities.

Make sure the alarm works:

plug van in

lock car normally

unplug van

alarm should sound.

  • Like 1
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35 minutes ago, Yeti333 said:

Thanks for that, that's good news I thought I might have to pull it all to piece's again!!!!!

 

No problem.

All the Law states is that there must be a notification if the trailer flashers do not work and the bulb failure system does that perfectly.

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  • 3 years later...

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