Hi

I have 2003 superb elegance and both front n back left door are stuck locked. Electrical windows work on these doors.

Things tried so far:

-WD40

-light 'bump' nudge

-pulled door handles in/out

-tried keeping lock up with pliers but no luck

-diagnosis suggests no signal being sent from coms unit

I have run out of ideas to sort this.

Is there a way to release doors open.

I know this may be due to either water ingress, sunroof rain water drain blockage.

I need to release doors so that the front passenger seat can be removed and wiring examined along with drying of carpet and main unit.

Other probs:

-cabin lights don't work for a while

-door puddle lights don't work

-fuel flap switch not working, currently manually release from boot, boot switch working strangely

I am not all technical minded and don't possess all tools.

Need advise and help on how and where I could get this sorted asap, already been 3 weeks with no left side door access and 7 month pregnant with and 3 year toddler. Need all doors and seats soon.

Located in Leicester.

Help, help, help!!!

It sounds like the passenger side doors are still deadlocked.

Have you had the car scanned with VCDS?

This does sound like water the the CCM (central convenience module). I don't know about the Superb but on the mkI Octavia you can get the door card off with the door shut but it involves breaking some clips, then you can release the door.

Have you tried lifting the passenger footwell carpet? and seeing if it wet around the CCM?

Please stick to this one thread. I have removed the two dozen copy/paste posts. Only ONE is needed.

You have water ingress. Just search this forum how to fix it.

Hi

Thanks for the response, much appreciated.

I know there is water ingress problem but need to get doors open to remove front passenger seat.

I have no tools for diagnosis but had taken a garage who plugged their machine and said the CCM is not communicating. The electric windows on all doors, front n back electic seats both sudes and central locking on driver side work. So I can gather that CCM is functional but the wiring/connection may be at fault. To get to wiring need to remove seat and for that I need the doors open, catch 22.

Any ideas/thoughts?

Is there anyone who can have a look at this please?

I don't have a superb but do you have to remove the seat? Also can't you get the seat out with the door shut, when I took the seats out of my old Octavia I could have done it with the doors shut - I took the front seat out through the back door. I thought the CCM was in the foot well below the dash rather than near the seat.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

No on the MKI Superb it is located under the passenger seat, it is still be possible to remove the seat with the door closed, but obviously not as easy as you will need to reach over from the drivers side.

The CECM itself my be fried, but more than likely the wiring nodes will be corroded which is giving you the problems.

Would I need to take the back seat out as well to remove front through the driver rear door?

I have heated seated seats, would that cause any problems?

No, no need to remove the rear seats, just try not to kneel on the seat bases as this can damage the heated seat elements, the seats are heavy so I would suggest a hand to remove the seat.

Thanks, I shall attempt getting the seat out next Saturday off course weather permitting.

Will keep you posted and likewise keep the advise/suggestions rolling.

Might be worth calling around a few auto locksmiths - they often know ways to open doors that aren't common knowledge.

When did the doors stick shut? Did they fail at the same time? If not, then the door locks may be coincidental to the water ingress problems. The locks are prone to failing and sticking shut (I've had three). It is possible to break open the door without doing noticeable damage (if you know what you're doing) - but you will need new locks (£120 each) and will need to take it to somewhere that has experience of doing it. So quite possibly A VW dealer...

good luck

sidewaze samm

Started with back left door and I went on to lock and unlock, tried 2-3 times but by then the front left went in the space of 30-60 secs max. Luckily my wife had gone back into the house to get some stuff before we were about to leave for London. Would have been difficult for her and bump to climb out through the driver seat after along journey.

Jimbof

Definitely worth I try, I will call around tomorrow.

sidewaze samm

Started with back left door and I went on to lock and unlock, tried 2-3 times but by then the front left went in the space of 30-60 secs max. Luckily my wife had gone back into the house to get some stuff before we were about to leave for London. Would have been difficult for her and bump to climb out through the driver seat after along journey.

Are you saying the front door failed 30-60 secs after the rear door failed? If so, then that would be a little too much coincidence and would tend to point to convenience unit problems caused by water ingress.

When the door locks stick, typically it's because the solenoid has failed and will not release the deadlock which is why you cannot hold up the button on top of the door. In my experience, this happens intermittently over a varying period of time. I don't know, but I would have presumed that a lack of signal due to water ingress would not cause the solenoid to hold the lock shut - but as I said, I don't actually know that.

I would say it could well be worth disconnecting the multiplugs inside the rubber bellows, found between the hinges on each door. This will kill all power to the door, including windows and mirror, but could just enable you to open the door manually. Considering the alternative, well worth a go...

good luck

Are you saying the front door failed 30-60 secs after the rear door failed? If so, then that would be a little too much coincidence and would tend to point to convenience unit problems caused by water ingress.

When the door locks stick, typically it's because the solenoid has failed and will not release the deadlock which is why you cannot hold up the button on top of the door. In my experience, this happens intermittently over a varying period of time. I don't know, but I would have presumed that a lack of signal due to water ingress would not cause the solenoid to hold the lock shut - but as I said, I don't actually know that.

I would say it could well be worth disconnecting the multiplugs inside the rubber bellows, found between the hinges on each door. This will kill all power to the door, including windows and mirror, but could just enable you to open the door manually. Considering the alternative, well worth a go...

good luck

The problem of opening the doors is the major issue.

Once door is open or lock release, I can stimulate door closure using screwdriver etc to test and then look at electrical issues such the both mention multiplug in the rubber bellows near hinges.

Is there a way to remove door cards when doors are locked without potentially causing any damage to them?

Also, is the any connectors for doors on A or B posts?

Have a look at this:

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/68-b5-garage/202206-door-panel-removal-when-door-wont-open.html#post1262993

Basically it seems getting the door trim panel off without (much) damage looks to involve trying to undo the torx screws at the bottom of the door trim, then more or less following the procedure you'd normally go through to get the door trim off (remove grab handle to undo screws under that, pop the bottom poppers out, then lift the panel upwards and disengage cables and wires).

I just got in the back of mine and it is clear that you can reach the torx screw (at least in the back). with the door closed - it even looks like they've designed it this way! If you look at the bottom of the door that works you can see it, but it will be obscured by your seat squab.

If I was going to try to do it to my car, I reckon I'd do the following:

1) remove as much of the rear seats as posible) - otherwise you're going to be fighting them all the time as they obscure quite a lot of the edge of the door panel)

2) get that screw out

3) pop the trim off the grab handle and remove all screws there

4) pop the bottom of the door trim off the poppers (which is probably going to involve some brute force)

5) lift up the door trim and remove the cables and connectors (might be tricky, particularly the light at the bottom).

I reckon you could lose a day of your life getting to the point of having the door trim off. Then you have to sort the lock still!

Note I'm thinking aloud above as to how I would approach the problem. I haven't tried it and hopefully won't have cause to!

If I were in your situation I'd probably give it a go myself, but I'm pretty happy trying stuff out (and living with it if I mess up). If that isn't you, then you probably need to find someone to do it for you as it seems clear there isn't an "easy" solution...

I can't look at the actual door to see how it might be done, as I no longer have my Superb :'(

But if the trim could be removed from the front door, and the door opened, that would then give access to the multiplug connector for the back door situated on the B pillar - which just may allow the rear door to open...

Hi

I have not had chance to update posting.

I couldn't do the work myself as in terms of remove seat and trouble shooting so took car to Nass Autotech who work on VAG cars. They did diagnosis and said the wiring in harness will need examining and repair at cost of around £150. I agreed to leave car with them for a couple of days but the next day I received phone call saying wiring is fine but some parts of CCM are not functioning. I got quoted £290 for new unit with coding and labour. I quote was not made clear to me on the phone. I understood they wanted the £150 plus £290 which way above what I can afford at moment. They charge me £35 plus vat for diagnosis work etc.

I was away and got my brother in law to collect the car back. As for now nothing works in terms of left doors still deadlock, boot door locked, fuel flap locked, all electric windows/mirrors not working, sunroof not working, no cabin lights, no remote locking/unlocking,.... I don't know if they have disabled everything. I am going to see them today to open fuel flap or boot to open fuel flap as fuel for only 10-15 miles left.

I am due to go back to them to negotiate a price as I know understand £290 is for everything. I try to get them to include the £35+vat in the £290.

Can you advise me on what I should do.

Thanks

IMO £290 isn’t too bad a price to get the car fully working again… if they are are also going to reseal the pollen filter housing etc.

£290 for just CCM and coding.

Water ingress proofing will have to do myself.

In my country, they are houndred of houndred car electricans, why dont you try to find help and solution on some other garages?

We all know, VW dealers loves money. :)

But I must say IMO, its not expensive to fix that.

And pls prevent it for future.

Cheers, and sorry for my misarable English.

In that case it is a bit steep, 1hr labour to fit and code plus the cost of the module.

Where the time takes is drying out the carpet, repairing the wires and cleaning and sealing the plenum chamber.

ATEOTD they are only quoting you for ½ of the job that needs doing.

Perhaps they totally disconnected the CCM? Or perhaps it just got worse... Once you start to lose things I understand if goes downhill fairly quickly.