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Happy Hetty, the Fen Yeti


DrPinball

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Hi All,

Thought that as Happy Hetty, the Fen Yeti was coming up to her first 1000 miles I would sum up the terrible rough handling she has suffered at my hands, basically a list of all the mods I wanted to complete before this milestone.

I've had a lot of help from the posts here so I hope that this gives a little back:-

1. Replace bonnet sound insulation (comes as standard on diesels) - cheap and worthwhile cuts down on engine noise at higher revs.

2. Change rear boot light to an LED - £1 to replace a glow worm with something that actusally puts out some light.

3. Jumper fuse bus - £1 again, now the front cigar lighter socket goes off with the ignition and I have a handy point to pick up switched live.

4.Door trim guards - the black plastic ones, £20 to stop the hooves of the missis booting the hell out of another poor car. Stuck on with the pads they came with - rock solid fit. Don't bother with the positioning kit, you can use a tape measure and some masking tape to set the position and save some money.

5. Silver bumper/ boot trim guard stuck on with the pads it came with AND a big dollop of TigerGrip black goop (mastic) wonderful stuff, does the job and is automotive grade.

6. Exhast Trims, chrome, look fantastic but hard to fit correctly read here: http://www.briskoda....4-exhaust-trim/

7. Front bumper mini trims, silver - suit the car and cheap again. The fitting tape supplied is pants, mine fell off after a day TigerGrip to the rescue.

8. Piano Black inserts for the interior dash (thrown in on the car deal) L&K covered with a tranfer and revarnished - we like the look far more than the brushed aluminium.

9. Reversing Camera, Aaaaaaaaarrrrghh! Worked in the end (£60 all up) hard work though! See here: http://www.briskoda....-amundsen-plus/

10. VCDS Cable tweaks that work (Note there is another post here with many work that I've not bothered to test: http://www.briskoda....tions-how-do-i/), these are the one's we have activated or changed :-

Brake Assist: (changes braking ABS model a bit harder/softer. Set as 0 Avg initially. 2 sharpens up the hard braking response:
ABS Brakes – 3

Adaptation – 10
Hit ‘Read’ and go to channel 9
Brake Assist - 0/1/2 Assist Avg/Low/high


Change Coming/Leaving Home To Fogs:
Cent Elect - 09

Coding - 07
Long Coding Helper - Byte 17 Bit 3 = Coming / Leaving Home with fog lights

Comfort Turn Signals To 5 Blinks: (Change the number of times the indicators blink when you 'flick' the indicator stalk)
Cent Elect - 09
Adaptation - 10
Click on the drop down menu and select “Comfort Turn Signals (cycles).” In the “NEW VALUE” window, hit up or down to your desired selection. 5 is recommended.

Note: If this does not work , go to Maxidot - Settings - Vision - reset factory settings or try:
Cent Elect - 09
Adaptation - 10

Channel 31> old value (3x flashing; default) 3> values ??range between 1-5

Display Cruise Control Speed:
Display the speed set for the cruise control in the bottom left corner of the MFD - a dodgy one this - when I activated it we saw it work once and then never again (older yetis nay have more luck)
MFD.jpg

This mod will show the actual speed, not the speed shown by the speedo (accurate within 1 km/h). The speed is visible when the cruise control is switched on and the car is moving, otherwise the total driven distance is shown. If the figures are small it means that the speed is set but the cruise control is not active, if the figures are big (as in the image above) the cruise control is active.
Instruments - 17
Adaptation - 10
Control Display select "Active"


Emergency Braking triggers hazard lights: (usually bit 2 is already enabled):
Cent Elect - 09

Coding - 07
Long coding helper
Byte 16
Bit 2 emergency brake flashing via brake
Bit 3 emergency brake flashing via turn signals


Large MPH Display:
Instruments - 17
Set country to ROW (Rest Of World) or Australia
Then in MaxiDot change:


Units
"Consu/distance"

Change to mpg (GB), mi (as it defaults to 1/100km, km),

"MFD data"

Tick box for Digit.speed

"ALT.speed dis."

Untick box (this will remove the KPH speed and replace it with the outside temp display)

After this checking or unchecking the new "ALT.speed dis." setting in the MaxiDot swaps between KPH and MPH.

Oil Temperature enabled for MFD:
It is normal for the oil temp to not show on fixed interval servicing since the sensor that monitors the temperature is disabled. Mine constantly read '---' and that drove me up the wall, lucky it's a simple fix:
17 - Instruments
10 - Adaptation
Drop menu open and scroll to: ESI Coding for servic eInterval Extention - TOG

Go down the new drop menu unti lyou get to Oil sensor connected or not connected to dash cluster (see image), select the first option Oil temp now appears on the dash.

e16a09d9.jpg


Reversing Camera (RVC) Enable for RNS315/Amundsen+
Navigation - 37
Coding - 07
Long coding helper
Byte 3 - Bit 6


37navigationenablervc.jpg

Park/Steer Assist - 10
Coding - 07
Long coding helper
Byte 0 - Bit 5


10parksteerassistrvcops.jpg

Staging (Useless, but vital for happiness, sweep of the instrument needles on start up)
Instruments - 17 (5LO 920 480 K)
Adaptation - 10
Staging
On/Off

Tear Drop Wiping for Front Wiper Active (one delayed extra wipe after spraying the screen):
Cent Elect - 09
Coding – 07

Select drop down menu 1 -- 5L2 955 119 B – SK356
Long coding helper (ignore warning)

Byte 1 - Bit 3

Tear Drop Wiping for Rear Wiper Active (one delayed extra wipe after spraying the screen):
Cent Elect - 09
Coding - 07
Long coding helper
Byte 21 - Bit 4


Single Rear Wipe (when reverse gear engaged):
Cent Elect - 09
Coding - 07
Long coding helper
Byte 21 - Bit 6


Sunroof Open Or Tilt When Holding Unlock Or Lock On The Remote Key Fob:
Cent Elect II - 4F
Coding – 07
Long coding helper

Byte 1 - Bit 0 (uncheck for open, check for tilt)

11. Daft stickers for the unused dsh buttons, embarrassing but I have a missile launcher (out of service at the moment).

12. A 'Crafty Plugger' set, loads of tyre repairs without using the gunk and badgering up a perfectly good (if not a bit flat) tyre. We used these all the time when we had bikes a cheap and terrific piece of kit: http://www.craftyplugger.com/ that can be used for several repairs.

Finally I abandoned fitting the MDI cable as our Nokia Lumia's work straight through the Bluetooth for albums, calls - the lot really.

That's it for now, I'm done!

Mark

Edited by ColinD
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Decided to make just a couple more tweaks and added a wireless charging car phone holder to the right of the instrument cluster, dropped the wire down the side of the fuse box. As the charger connection was a 12v plug containing the circuit I've installed an extension socket with four ports off the switched live in the fuse box. This is mounted behind the trim on top of the tray that supports the drivers airbag below the relays.

I've also swapped out the badges (key fob, bonnet and wheels) for the Citigo updated retro design, new steering wheel and boot badges to match are coming from PastyBoy too:-post-100987-0-23070900-1372308710_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

And another small mod, substituted a smaller stub aerial for the long rubber jobbie, now I can go through the car wash without unscrewing and screwing bits on and off the car.

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  • 1 month later...

Oh well after picking up a couple of wing dents thanks to the local car park I decided to fit the wheel arch set.

 

I sourced a genuine set for £75 off of eBay - rather a bargain given the usual cost is more than £200 plus glue and fitting. Speaking of glue I was horrified to find our that the recommended glue was over £10, so I used the ever trusty Tiger Seal (£7) which is designed to remain permanently flexible when dry and is used for mounting body panels and sealing joints.

 

Just to complicate the issue as Hetty has parking assist I had to drill out holes in the front trims after several experiments to make sure the sensors would still do their job. I settles on 23mm hole saw cuts with a slope made of Tiger Seal between the edge of the arch and the sensor. After I had dome I had intended to paint the sensors black but the family have decided that leaving them silver is the way to go. Time will tell if I agree.....

 

If you are thinking of going down this route then I offer the following observations (which I wish I had had when I started:-

- It's not that hard a job, but it does need preparation, get all the materials including a good degreaser (I used a can of IPA)

- Don't rush, the glue I used dries slowly so I actually did a wing a night, had the neibours in stitches but that's the price you pay for living in East Anglia

- If you have no garage to work in wait for a good spell of warm dry weather, yo uwant things to stay between 15-30C really

- Wash the arches thoroughly inside and out

- Rough up the inside of the trim 15mm around the edges with coarse sandpaper

- Start at the back, the pieces are smaller, easier to fit and simple to clamp

- Speaking of clamps you only get 4 bulldog clips with the arches - I used 16 'borrowed' from work and some of those larger spring clamps you can pick up from the pound shop.

- Get some strong double sided tape, make a pad by folding it four times and put three to seven pieces in the middle of each tirm depending on their size - this make fitting the front so much easier.

- Clean the area where the tirm is to go with degreaser

- Add a 5mm bead of tiger seal around the edge about 7.5mm in.

- Fit in place, every piece has a lip of some sort that makes lining up quite easy, take your time and push down until the double sided tape grips.

- For the back two piece you can use clamps at the bottom and I used gaffer tape at the top, at the front you cannot use the clips so run the tape from the inside of the arch (that's why you cleaned it) over the trim and onto the wing) 

- Clean up any glue around the edges as you apply the tape, the IPA worked a treat with Tiger Seal for this.

- Leave the car overnight, for as long as you can prior to CAREFULLY removing the tape, there's no point rushing this part and tearing off the trims or the rear wheel arch stone chip films (yes you glue over these)

- Don't go over 60 for 24 hours and no car washes for at least 2/3 days

 

That's it - good luck an dI hope this is a help.

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She looks very smart!  I hope you find that all the worries about bonding prove to be unfounded :happy:

 

I did try to source recommended glue but at £55 for three tubes and the bonding agent I thought the cost rather prohibitive. I have used Tiger Seal to bond the boot protector and the kick plates and they are both rock solid. However to be sure I called Upol who make it and had a chat with them and they assured me that Tiger Seal was designed for not only sealing but also panel and trim bonding in automotive uses.

So, fingers crossed!

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I did a test on the second time round of fixing my trims. Using one of the trims I stuck 4 x clean and degreased 2p pieces to the inside of trims. One with Tiger Seal and no polyolefin primer on the polypropylene trim. One with Tiger Seal and primer. One with Speedbond and no primer. One with Speedbond and primer. All except the Tiger Seal without primer had bonded well after being left for three days. Tiger Seal is a polyurethane adhesive. Masterseal Speedbond is a MS polymer adhesive and does not need a primer. So beware it's a hell of a job to do twice. I should add that in the end I used Masterseal Speedbond along with the Masterseal polyolefin clear primer, belt and braces the second time round.

Edited by jeep
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Interesting, I take it your first adhesion failed? If so what adhesive did you use then and did you scarify the trims first? So far despite the recent heat and several car washes mine seem fine but I did decrease both the car and trims pretty thoroughly.

I did a test on the second time round of fixing my trims. Using one of the trims I stuck 4 x clean and degreased 2p pieces to the inside of trims. One with Tiger Seal and no polyolefin primer on the polypropylene trim. One with Tiger Seal and primer. One with Speedbond and no primer. One with Speedbond and primer. All except the Tiger Seal without primer had bonded well after being left for three days. Tiger Seal is a polyurethane adhesive. Masterseal Speedbond is a MS polymer adhesive and does not need a primer. So beware it's a hell of a job to do twice. I should add that in the end I used Masterseal Speedbond along with the Masterseal polyolefin clear primer, belt and braces the second time round.

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Interesting, I take it your first adhesion failed? If so what adhesive did you use then and did you scarify the trims first? So far despite the recent heat and several car washes mine seem fine but I did decrease both the car and trims pretty thoroughly.

The first time round I used the expensive Henkel Elch Pro adhesive that Skoda recommend, this is also polyurethane adhesive and little bottle of polyolefin primer is part of the kit. I have to except that my failure with it was not using the primer properly or generously enough. I thought I had done a good job until ten days after fixing it and the car went in for service and was put through the dealers carwash. When I got it back I could see a slight gap on a couple of pieces of trim, and found that they were all really easy to 'peel off' leaving a perfect impression of the trim marking behind.

 

The adhesive took many hours to remove from the car. I had carefully degreased trims and car also rubbing inside of trim with coarse emery cloth. There are many varieties of plastic, but it would seem that polypropylene is one you need to take extra care with being a fairly 'soft' plastic. The Czech Skoda site states that the trims are made of  polypropylene.

Edited by jeep
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Thanks Ibwill keep a carefully eye on them, as I said above I did do one wing all on its own well in advance of the others. I guess the real test is time and temperature variation, the twin enemy of even good bonds. For good or bad I'll keep updating so folk can learn from our experiences.

The first time round I used the expensive Henkel Elch Pro adhesive that Skoda recommend, this is also polyurethane adhesive and little bottle of polyolefin primer is part of the kit. I have to except that my failure with it was not using the primer properly or generously enough. I thought I had done a good job until ten days after fixing it and the car went in for service and was put through the dealers carwash. When I got it back I could see a slight gap on a couple of pieces of trim, and found that they were all really easy to 'peel off' leaving a perfect impression of the trim marking behind.

 

The adhesive took many hours to remove from the car. I had carefully degreased trims and car also rubbing inside of trim with coarse emery cloth. There are many varieties of plastic, but it would seem that polypropylene is one you need to take extra care with being a fairly 'soft' plastic. The Czech Skoda site states that the trims are made of  polypropylene.

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Have followed this thread with a lot of interest, it is a very very good thread.All your VCDS work done on Heti must have your head "buzzin", well done. I have taken taken a lot of interest in your interpretation on how to fit the Wheel-arch covers. What seems to be a fairly simple job on paper seems to be a nightmare for a lot of Yeti owners, as previous threads on the forum seem to justify.You have certainly researched the procedure of how to do it properly.

I must say that I agree with Jeep as to the type of product to use to glue the plastic parts to the bodywork, I do think your use of clamps and clips is a very good idea and had crossed my mind to use the same.Please post on how they stand up to rigors of everyday use and the immenent Winter weather. I will attempt to do this project next year when the weather gets a little bit warmer and dryer as like you point out this is so important to helping adhesion. keep up the good work!!!!

Tony

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Hello good people, I've just bought the "black plastic" trim for the yeti rear door, ( SuperSkoda 89€) and was wondering if you have fitted this before , I received the glue with it , thanks .

I presume you mean the trim that fits along the bottom of the tailgate? It of course depends on the plastic material they used, if SuperSkoda supplied the adhesive with it I'd follow their instructions. If you wanted to be really cautious you could try an adhesion test first with a small dab of adhesive on a clean and degreased coin or washer

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Thanks, I have " tested it " without the glue to see how it looks and in a strange way it seems " short " . I was expecting it to fit / wrap round the edges of the tailgate at the sides [ ] but as said seems short. To be honest the build quality of it seems rough and am thinking of contacting SuperSkoda , Thanks again.....

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Thanks, I have " tested it " without the glue to see how it looks and in a strange way it seems " short " . I was expecting it to fit / wrap round the edges of the tailgate at the sides [ ] but as said seems short. To be honest the build quality of it seems rough and am thinking of contacting SuperSkoda , Thanks again.....

I must admit I'm not sure of the purpose of this trim, it does not seem to add any additional protection really to an area that is unlikely to be damaged in the first place. A bumper trim on top of the bumper would give more practical protection to scuffing when loading or unloading and dogs claws etc.

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Have followed this thread with a lot of interest, it is a very very good thread.All your VCDS work done on Heti must have your head "buzzin", well done. I have taken taken a lot of interest in your interpretation on how to fit the Wheel-arch covers. What seems to be a fairly simple job on paper seems to be a nightmare for a lot of Yeti owners, as previous threads on the forum seem to justify.You have certainly researched the procedure of how to do it properly.

I must say that I agree with Jeep as to the type of product to use to glue the plastic parts to the bodywork, I do think your use of clamps and clips is a very good idea and had crossed my mind to use the same.Please post on how they stand up to rigors of everyday use and the immenent Winter weather. I will attempt to do this project next year when the weather gets a little bit warmer and dryer as like you point out this is so important to helping adhesion. keep up the good work!!!!

Tony

Will do Tony!

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Have now got the Wheel-arch kit just waiting for Adhesives from Wayside.I also managed to get a set of 6 clamps to use for helping with process, so all I need now is some decent warmish weather (one can live in hope).Probably not this year too late but will wait till back end of Spring next year.

Tony

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Have now got the Wheel-arch kit just waiting for Adhesives from Wayside.I also managed to get a set of 6 clamps to use for helping with process, so all I need now is some decent warmish weather (one can live in hope).Probably not this year too late but will wait till back end of Spring next year.

Tony

Good luck. I must admit that I could not really see how the bulldog clips would really work as there is nothing to grip onto inside the wheel arches. In my garage I had just enough room to do one side at a time, so I cut some garden canes to the appropriate lengths and jammed between wall and trim as I worked along the car.

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I must admit I'm not sure of the purpose of this trim, it does not seem to add any additional protection really to an area that is unlikely to be damaged in the first place. A bumper trim on top of the bumper would give more practical protection to scuffing when loading or unloading and dogs claws etc.

 

See here:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/280617-shock-horror/

Why I am fitting them!

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I must admit I'm not sure of the purpose of this trim, it does not seem to add any additional protection really to an area that is unlikely to be damaged in the first place. A bumper trim on top of the bumper would give more practical protection to scuffing when loading or unloading and dogs claws etc.

 

 

Memory loss? I'm not talking about the wheel arch trims, I've fitted those. This was a response to a post about the trim from SuperSkoda that fits along the bottom of the tail gate (trunk). It is also part of the expensive wheel arch trim kit from Milotec, I suppose the idea is that it gives a level sight line of trim when viewing the car from the the rear side

Edited by jeep
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just out of interest regarding the use of the "Bulldog" clips supplied with the Trim kit.As Jeep and others have said there is no way you can use them on the front wheel arches. Jeep even reffered to using canes to add a bit more adhesion, whilst gluing the trims on.I have ordered and received a set of Sealey suction clamp 6 pieces and have done a test run on the front arches, they do work. They are made of strong plastic and hold said trim in perfectly for the gluing process.You can get them as I did from our "favourite online marketplace", I paid just over £20 but I do feel that they are a good find.

Tony

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