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Superb Twindoor wiring fix


Mart Vrs

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi, am looking at tapping into reverse wire for towbar.

Can see the wires go out the top left of the tailgate but if remove grommet couldn,t see/pull enough of the cable to see if there was a connector. Is there a connector do you know and is it on the car body side or on the tailgate?

Thanks in advance.

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Hi d_aero, sorry I'm not sure where the join is in the body and if there is it would probably mean dropping the headlining for access, the revering lights are connected via the plugs in the tailgate, as pictured. I would imagine there is a dedicated point for connecting towbar wiring somewhere behing the luggage compartment trim panels, someone else may know better.

Good luck.

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Ok, thanks Mart Vrs.

I was brave and removed seat cushion, b pillar trim and rear shelf (in that order) and can see there is no connector. Nice, replace main loom when hatch opened too many times!!

Will need to tap onto loom in b pillar then.

Regards

d_aero

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  • 3 months later...

Many thanks to you for the instructions to fixing the twin boot door problem,  I had this problem and had removed the two wing motors and operated the boot just as a hatch. I had posted my problem previously on this net but the solutions never solved the problem. I stripped out the boot at the weekend and located the wire loom for the boot in that small curved pillar, and low and behold here were all the wire covers exposed, none were broken but they were in contact with each other which cant be good.

got some insulating tape, fixed the prob and fixed back my removed motors to find she worked again.

All credit to you Derby skoda owner.

thanks N.P

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  • 3 months later...
  • 7 months later...

Unbelievable! I had no problems with the twin-door. My right rear fog light went off (with a correct error message). In Poland both should be operational. Checked the bulb all was good there. Searched few times online for possible suggestions but I didn't find anything conclusive.

When buying the car the licence plate bulb error was on but was assured by the seller it was just a bulb... right. Who would have thought!

 

I found this thread today and thought it was easy enough to take the trim off and have a look at the wires. 

 

Taking the trim was ok. I took the material cover off which hides the loom connectors you need to release in order to pull the wires in. It was held by 10 or so black plastic pins all around. It seems you just need to pull by the material and they will shoot right out. Then there is the rubber handle you pull to close the hatch (one screw and the outer side has a plastic hook in the front - you can manoeuvre it out easily).

Couple more pins like that one on each (outer) side on the covers of the twin-door hinges and you can take them off (held by few clicky things).

Next you have to take the black plastic cover off which is mounted on the bottom (when closed) edge of the window. This just needs to be pulled back - you wont break anything there are 5 or so metal springy things that hold it in place. It was surprisingly robustly installed so had my doubts when continuing to increase the force. This reveals two black torx screws one on each side. I only undid the left one which allowed me to pull away (only on the top - when open) the inner cover of the hinge the lower remained firmly installed.

Given the 4 connectors (2 blue and 2 black - each different) are undone you can now gently pull the wires near the left side of the window.

 

I am pretty confident that the act of pulling the cables out made it worse. I say this because everything worked apart from the right fog light. Now when I undid the horrible black thing foamy tape around the section of the wires I found only 2!!! of the cables intact and remaining 6!!! completely torn apart with not an insignificant damage to the insulation. To be clear 6 out of 8 wires were completely separated (no continuity).

 

At this point there was no going back I needed to mend all 6 and looking at the remaining 2 I considered fixing those two as well. 

Unfortunately I wasn't as well prepared for the repair as I would have hoped. I soldered the wires which is definitely a bad idea and not a permanent fix simply because the soldering is done in place where there is a mechanical strain put onto the wires. I'm quite sure that if I open only the small section of the booth few times all hell will break loose (It would seem that opening the both sections together would not put strain onto the wires).

 

Also if you are not particularly good at soldering and your iron is not too powerful you may find it impossible to solder the thicker wires (brown or purple) as their thermal capacity will immediately cool your iron down and you'll be melting insulation in no time.

 

Another thing is the warning from the OP about wires having the same colour. I did not find this entirely correct. In fact I had two wires black with blue stripe broken but upon closer inspection found one to be much brighter blue than the other so had no problems discerning which one is which.

 

I've put it all together and all is working perfectly - for now. This is not a permanent fix! It will require a whole section of the wire to be replaced and the bit that is in motion when opening the small tail gate will have to be made of whole wire and probably strengthened to dissipate the bending motion.

All 6 wires were "cut" in the same exact place.

 

Well done Skoda!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have this same problem and was pointed to this thread as a probable cause and solution. I my case the lower boot opens when I select reverse gear. Similar cause to you Pawpro but different effect. The problem was intermittent over the summer but now happens each and every time I select reverse.

 

I pulled all the trim away before and released the cables to allow a bit more play but obviously this was only a temporary fix.

 

Someone had told me about a wiring loom kit that is available to make a fix but on a visit to Skoda parts today I found out that in the UK this is £150+ so need to find an afternoon over Christmas to either reinsulate the wires using heat shrink or crimping in some new wire to replace the broken sections. I image it looks a lot like some of the pictures above!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks very much for this guide... I have just done my twin door with this exact problem.

 

My wires...

 

Broken.jpg

 

The only thing I've added is how I repaired the wiring.

 

1. Push a piece of electrical heat shrink over one part of the broken wire.

 

2. Strip the ends of the broken wire and twist together.

 

3.Then solder the wire together and cover the join with the heat shrink and heat up.

 

4. Then when all repaired wrap all together with electrical tape.

 

Repair.jpg

 

Regards Ian

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

  1. Excellent guide,

I had put some photos together for one last year but the phone got nicked. I had tried doing it without extending the leads and got the same problem back a few weeks later. My repaired wires were too thick to move in the semi circular pipe at the hinge level. I then did a staggered repair with each cable fixed at a different location extending all the wires and after sealing with heat shrink I covered everything with white spray grease including the tube.

If I was doing it again I will consider splitting the loom and bringing half of it down the other side of the boot lid.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thank you Mart Vrs,

 

I had exactly same problem with TwinDoor, managed to dissassemble, had a look at wires and bingo... purple one disconnected (same as yours) and others exposed and touching each other. 

 

The guide is great, I have just one improvement. Instead of

 

Next you will need to close and lock the tailgate without refitting the side bolt/hook parts, this should lock the boot lid normally

 

 

you can just lock the latch on the door lock (press down with screwdriver or something), with finger press the microswitch at the bottom (where the latch goes when door is closed) and you are able to operate the buttons and 'open' the door (adjust hinges) in hatch mode. 

 

Cheers,

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  • 2 months later...

Ok so far a while I operated with just the saloon boot opening, with the fob, both buttons not working. Then about 6 months ago I followed most of the instructions above to just get the hatch to open again. Thought I would get around to the wires a day or two later but noooooooooooooo, so finally after about 6 months I fixed the wires ( 5 snapped, 2 damaged) and do you think I could remember how to put it all together, not on your nelly. Finally after a lot of patients and opening and closing I figured it out.

I did however manage to break the retaining clip on the N/S spring loaded piece of plastic (that looks like a fishing hook) but it's on order. Everything is now working properly including the O/S reverse light which had stopped working.

Fingers crossed the connections all hold together and I don't have to strip it all out again. At least I will know what I am doing this time and do it all in the one day.

Thanks Matt Vrs for the guide

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Great information....

Just did the fix on my Skoda Superb 140tdi 2007

3 wires was broken and the rest except 3 was close to break.

Now the twindoor work perfect again.

Thanks a lot

From Denmark

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Thanks a lot for the step by step repair guide. Six of my wire's were completely severed. Skoda said they were not aware there was a problem with this, whether you believe that is another matter,I see the new superb does not have the dual lock feature!

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Good instructions for the fix Mart Vrs, my company car had this fault but garage fixed it (bodged it) a replacement loom is over £1000!

 

Reading this and all other posts I was wondering if somebody has tried to get this repaired under warranty.  Normal boot use resulting in cables being damaged or snapped would point to to poor design or construction error rather than normal wear and tear.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for a great post.

 

Initially I had a problem with the door lock, when opening the door in sedan mode. The door lock would sometimes move down immediately after opening the door in sedan mode, otherwise everything worked fine.

I sent the car to skoda repair center, they found the broken wires and the price for repair was 400 EUR, I told them I would like to wait with the repair.

 

Now I am trying to fix the wires myself. First I have made a quick fix, just to verify that everything is working as it should:

IMG 0006

 

Now the door works fine in hatch mode, and the door lock works fine. Now the problem is that the latch won't lock the door, enabling the sedan mode. In addition, when pushing the right button, the brake light in the rear window does not flash (It might be because the latch is not in hatch mode).

So when opening the door, it will only open in hatch mode.

 

Has anyone experienced this, and am I missing something? Could it be the skoda repair center that has disabled the sedan mode somehow?

 

Here are some pictures of the latch position and the bolt/hook position.

 

IMG 0005

IMG 0004

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have just discovered a new feature - when I turn the fog lights on, the boot opens (Saloon mode only). This is useful when stationary, but less so when bowling along the M3 earlier this evening....

 

I assume from this the wiring to the latch in contact with the fog-lamp wires, and I have a few hours of my weekend booked in stripping this out and fixing the damage ?

 

Do I just need to do a subset of the trim to get at it all ? As far as I know, the twin-door function is still intact - although I've not tried it as I'm 200 miles from home at the moment. I will keep my hands off the light switch on the way home !

 

Alan.

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Following earlier post, I decided to have a go. To get to the cables, you only need to strip the soft trim off the boot part, undo the single torx behind the pull handle, and pop the 12 pops out by gently pulling. This gives you access to the 4 connectors - pop these out, and you create some slack in the part of the loom which goes through the curved box-section:

 

Now to the glass section - all you need to do is to pop off the curved black piece at the rear of the glass section - just pull it ! This gives you access to the curved side cover, held by 1 torx screw beneath the black curved piece, and the post which holds the parcel shelf (Another Torx 20). You don't need to take this right off, just pull it away to give access to the loom. 

 

Carefully snip through the sitcky cover tape, and unwind enough to reveal the horror. For me it was 4 completely broken cables (2 identical brown,but I was lucky and it all worked first time). As I didn't have heat shrink connectors to hand, I managed to solder these together - tin both ends, and then heat until they stick!),and then covered in black insulating tape. I also fluxed and put solder on the ones which were exposed, and starting to go - this will add mechanical strength.

 

Once done, close the boot and check everything carefully. Then re-stick the gloop-tape and feed it back in - ideally to a slightly different position, so the strain is not on the bits you've just fixed. 

 

Now do the Haynes Manual thing, reassembly is the reverse of removal ! A few parts have ends which snap together, so look before you pop them back on. 

 

All in all, under an hour for the job. I would advise getting heat-shrink connector thingies, these would be more resilient. 

 

I hope this helps - you may need to go to the full instructions if it is not working at all, but if you catch it early enough, you should get away with this !

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