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Fabia II (2) 2008 model problem with drivers electric window


Chris_55

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I've done a search and found some mention of problems with electric windows but I've not found an answer to the problem I'm having with our 2008 Level 2 model, I hope someone can help.

 

Symptoms:

 

Driver's window one touch facility often stops working, when this happens the window will open OK but when trying to close it operates in a series of stutters. The window will only move on the first 'up' switch position (stuttering) lifting the switch to the fully up position causes the window to stop.

 

This condition can be 'reset' for a few days by operating the external door lock with the key to the lock position and holding it over for a few seconds until the windows are fully closed, as described in the 2008 handbook.

 

Today the problem got worse, opened the driver's window fully to get car park ticket at barrier, window would not close. When the driver's door window switch was operated there were 'clicks' from what seemed to be inside the door but no window movement.

 

After repeated tries (ignition on /off, key in the door reset tried and failed) the window did move up a couple of inches on the old stuttering fashion.

 

After some time letting it rest, tried closing the window again with the engine running (thought some extra battery volts may help) on the third or fourth attempt window stuttered towards closed position and then the one shot function took over and closed the window fully.

Gave up while ahead and did not move the window again as it was getting too dark/wet to risk it.

 

Things tried previously without success:

 

Drivers door window switch dismantled & cleaned, nothing found wrong.

Wiring in drivers door hinge repaired for a different problem, symptom existed before this repair and after.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/281191-2008-model-drivers-door-switch-failure/?hl=%2Bdoor+%2Bswitch#entry3483280

 

VCDS scan taken today, but does not seem to help, file attached.

 

Anyone able to suggest what's wrong please?

 

 

 

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Chris, the most common problem with modern day car electric windows is caused by the window glass encountering too much friction in the window runners. By this I mean the window rubbers each side of the door window that the glass runs in. What happens is the friction is too much for the window sensors and the sensors then believe something is in the way. This causes the window mechanism to stop (a safety cut out to prevent injury to a child for example with their head in the window).  When operated again it will often work in a series of stutters as you describe. The secret to curing it is to first of all lubricate the window rubbers with some rubber lube. Do not use anything with petroleum in it as this will damage the rubbers. I use the same as most garages, Silicon spray. It's harmless and inert so wont damage anything. After lubing make the window slide up and down a few times. Wipe any excess off the glass and then you need to reset the window. If it's just one window, with the engine running, just operate the window switch to make the window go down. When it gets to the bottom of it's travel continue to hold the switch in the down position for 3 seconds until it clicks. Release the switch. Next, operate the window in the upward position and let the window close BUT continue to hold the switch for 3 seconds until it clicks. Release the switch. You have now reset the window operating parameters and the window will work normally. Make sure to relube the window runners every few months to prevent them drying out and causing too much friction and you won't ever have the problem again. Of course, it could be the switch but it's rare for other faults to cause what you describe. I feel confident this will cure your problem as you say the window clicks when it stops clearly indicating the safety cutouts are working, and indicating it's a lubrication and reset thing.

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Thanks Estate man,

 

Thinking about it further it did seem as the window glass had gone deeper into the door than normal when it stuck.

When I managed to get it to lift a couple of inches the window seemed a bit off level the back being lower than the front by about 1/4".

As I don't drive the car that much I'm not really familiar with what's normal however.

I guess these symptoms would line up with your thoughts re friction.

When its stops raining I'll give your suggestion a try.

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It stopped raining for a bit today so I had a look at the window again. Tried lubricating runners with silicone grease but window seems to move freely (when it does move).

 

Ignition on engine not running operate window from closed position, operated to halfway down and stopped, it would then not operate up or down, just a relay clicking type noise from inside the door. Left it for a about 1/2 hour, still would not work from the window switch or the door lock.

Decided to try with the engine running, on the 3rd or 4th attempt the window closed, gave up at this point as rain started.

As the motor would not operate from the door switch or door lock, I'm assuming the door switch is OK.

 

The symptoms suggest to me that an overload is operating prematurely and has to cool before the motor will operate again, I guess this maybe inside the motor/ecu.

Or maybe there's a poor power connection that running the engine just gives enough extra voltage to overcome.

I'd apreciate any suggestions or further tests before I change the motor/ecu at £160.

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Chris, yes we always found it best to start the engine before resetting the window. This ensures max voltage and proper ECU communication. It won't always work properly otherwise. Also make sure to continuously hold the operating switch in the full up position when going up with the window and fully down when going down until you hear the clicks. If the window sticks half way up or down continue to hold the switch fully operated for the direction you want the window to go but grab the glass and push or pull it in the direction of travel to enable it complete the cycle. You'd be amazed how many have been fixed this way and give no further trouble. If that doesn't do it then its another problem.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Guys, is the switch in the door just a push fit? I've tried levering it out gently with a screwdriver but it seems to be fixed pretty tight and I seem to be unable to lift it fully without looking like causing some damage. This might be a stupid question but I dont want to break the switch!!! Is there a trick or is it just a matter of pull as hard as you can and hope for the best?!! I'm trying to get to the elec plug that fits into the switch assembly to clean the contacts as I read on another similar post that dirty/damp/corroded contacts is sometimes the problem.

 

My problem is on the drivers dual switch.

 

  • The drivers window works in auto and manual going down but only manual going up.
  • The passenger window will not operate at all.

 

The passenger window works perfectly when using the passenger door switch. (auto and manual, up and down)

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edit: the switch won't break unless you're using a hammer. the driver's side switch is trickier to get back in but it will eventually go back in with patience.

 

It's a common problem affecting fabia and roomsters

 

have you tried taking the door card off and cleaning the contacts on the wiring for the switch on thew door?

Edited by fabia55
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  • 1 month later...

Symptoms:

 

Driver's window one touch facility often stops working, when this happens the window will open OK but when trying to close it operates in a series of stutters. The window will only move on the first 'up' switch position (stuttering) lifting the switch to the fully up position causes the window to stop.

 

 

Silicon spray. It's harmless and inert so wont damage anything. After lubing make the window slide up and down a few times. Wipe any excess off the glass and then you need to reset the window. If it's just one window, with the engine running, just operate the window switch to make the window go down. When it gets to the bottom of it's travel continue to hold the switch in the down position for 3 seconds until it clicks. Release the switch. Next, operate the window in the upward position and let the window close BUT continue to hold the switch for 3 seconds until it clicks.

Estate Man, you are a legend :clap:

 

I had exact same problem as Chris_55 with my drivers side window on a Fabia II. I followed your instructions above, didn't hear a click after 3 seconds, but all seems to be operational again. One Touch working and no stuttering when the window is closing. Thanks a mil, took a couple of minutes and saved me a fortune from a main dealer plug in. :thumbup:

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  • 1 month later...

Just thought I'd conclude this thread, the driver & passenger side windows eventually stopped working all together.

 

I also looked at this thread: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/308537-electric-windows-finally-sorted/?hl=%2Bwindow

with the hope my problem was the same.

 

However all the wiring & window switches checked out with a muiltimeter, dismantling the driver's side motor and cleaning the connections/resoldering did not fix it.

So £145 lighter I fitted a new driver's side front window motor.

 

I'm pleased to say this got both front electric windows working properly again.

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  • 1 year later...

It may not help too much here, but had a funny thing on Mrs Baxlin's Fabia estate today, she reported the passenger side window wouldn't work at all.

First thing, check the fuse under the dash. Fuses for both windows seem OK, both visually and with a continuity tester.

But as I have quite a stock of fuses, including 25 amp spades, I changed them both anyway.

That solved the problem. Make what you want of it!

Malcolm

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Are you going to try in the 5 amp fuses that should be used?

I'll check, but from memory, the window fuses are fuses 51 and 52, both 25amp (white) when we got the car. I did think that was a bit chunky, though.

Edit: I've googled Fabia fuses, and although I don't seem to be able to post a link, there is, on this forum, a photo of the fuse box, and the diagram in the lid, and the fuses are 51 and 52, and in the picture they both appear to be white, 25amp.

Can someone confirm, please, as I don't want to have less protection, with 25A fuses, if indeed they should be 5A

Thanks

Malcolm

Edited by Baxlin
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Doh,

Sorry my bad, i was thinking Mirror Adjustment. 

 

Yes Front and rear Right side. 25 amp '52'

left '51'

Phew!

Thanks, knowing me, it was well worth querying....................

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  • 3 months later...
  • 10 months later...

Hi, I had the same issue with my wifes Skoda 2008 Fabia Combi (Estate). The electric windows intermittently did not work, especially drivers side. Eventually windows were generally not working. Considered all the advice above. Took the car to a local car electrics expert in my home town (Limerick Ireland). He took off the door panel cover and diagnosed that a wire leading from the switch to the motor was damaged. His explanation was that the wire travels round a sharp bend near the door hinge side of the door, and that the normal use of the window had generated enough heat to fray the wire. He was able to replace the wire quickly ... cost €45 and now works perfectly again. As per some of the above posts he recommended periodically lubricating the window workings with WD40, to keep the friction low, and thus reduce the heat in the wire.

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  • 9 months later...

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