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Bilstein B8 review


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Looks like this one goes on my "to do" list. I was hoping I'd come to the end of "required" upgrades...  :rofl:

 

I know what you're saying. The arb and the springs had a great effect on the car and at the time, I really thought I didn't need additional upgrades. But the more I was living with the car the more I was getting tired by the crashy ride and the more I was realising I hadn't really changed its original behaviour but rather toned it down so, it was still not 100% satisfactory. I also understand when people say lowering springs are fine with stock dampers. They are because they don't make the ride significantly worse (ok maybe a tiny bit), it's already bad so you're kind of used to it anyway. Also, after those changes I can now clearly understand how every component works in relation with the others, rather than by itself. You can't have the best spring or damper or arb and leave the rest stock, it won't work as it could and you'll actually lose money for what you'll get.

 

Now funnily, the components which are said to be able to get the best out of the above upgrades are not even dampers but bushes, and while I managed to get sent the correct kit, I can't find anyone willing or knowledgeable to install them, would you imagine...

Edited by newbie69
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I know what you're saying. The arb and the springs had a great effect on the car and at the time, I really thought I didn't need additional upgrades. But the more I was living with the car the more I was getting tired by the crashy ride and the more I was realising I hadn't really changed its original behaviour but rather toned it down so, it was still not 100% satisfactory. I also understand when people say lowering springs are fine with stock dampers. They are because they don't make the ride significantly worse (ok maybe a tiny bit), it's already bad so you're kind of used to it anyway. Also, after those changes I can now clearly understand how every component works in relation with the others, rather than by itself. You can't have the best spring or damper or arb and leave the rest stock, it won't work as it could and you'll actually lose money for what you'll get.

Now funnily, the components which are said to be able to get the best out of the above upgrades are not even dampers but bushes, and while I managed to get sent the correct kit, I can't find anyone willing or knowledgeable to install them, would you imagine...

Am I reading and understanding correctly that you can't find anyone to fit a bush kit to your car i.e. Powerflex bush kit?! I did everything to my mk1 myself, that included front bottom arm bushes, engine mounts, springs and dampers, discs and pads, tracked it after a reputable local company did it and it scrubed out the inside sholder of the front tyres in next to no time, so i did it and while i was at it got the steering wheel straight at same time, car felt better to drive and tyre wear was spot on after that. Hard to believe that you can't find anyone to fit bushes after all the other mods that you've had fitted.

Front bottom arm bushes are easy to fit and will sharpen up the steering nicely with everything else you have done, thoes will probably make the biggest feelable difference to the car on top of all other mods imo, all else will make the package that bit sweater/sharper all round.

Wrighty

Edited by wrightcnc2009
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Yes you are right. The situation is crazy. The arb I did it myself but it was an easy job. The springs back in my home country, the dampers I struggled to find a small garage willing to fit non-stock parts but the bushes they couldn't do/feared they wouldn't succeed in installing the whole kit as they told me. Everybody else just won't accept a car for any repair/installation which is not an official one and with official parts that they will order and fit.

 

Given that I am familiar with basic mechanical stuff and I've got a proper lift ramp nearby, I am seriously thinking of digging up the entire procedure from ELSAWin as well any other guide/documentation I can get my hands on and attempt it myself.

 

*** Also, I have now noticed the gap of the rear arches is significantly bigger than the front after the dampers upgrade and I am really mad. I read that you have to measure the gap before replacing the rear strut so after you've installed the new ones you can tighten the screws so that you achieve the same gap but it seems the mechanic didn't bother or he measured with the boot loaded (while the Bilsteins were in). Another reason to get it on the ramp myself it seems...

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*** Also, I have now noticed the gap of the rear arches is significantly bigger than the front after the dampers upgrade and I am really mad. I read that you have to measure the gap before replacing the rear strut so after you've installed the new ones you can tighten the screws so that you achieve the same gap but it seems the mechanic didn't bother or he measured with the boot loaded (while the Bilsteins were in). Another reason to get it on the ramp myself it seems...

I have the same scenario with my Monte Carlo ! The front looks lower than the rear, but I think from factory the it has that set up. A nose down stance. I didn't have this with my previous mk2 vrs though

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I fitted a nice fresh new set of vRS take off springs during the night, with decent dampers.

 

They need a bit of a thrashing to get them settled in, it is sitting up higher than the 10,000 mile standards i took off.

 the car is up there like on stilts, but it does not roll or bounce and does what is needed,

not bottom out.

Looks stupid but functions as required.

 

george.

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Wow! I had nearly forgot how tall it stood as standard!   :o

 

But anyway, the springs I know need settling in, the dampers though? I think there was a small (10mm) difference between front and rear before but now it must be around 20, it's that obvious....

 

Which after having a look at the workshop manuals made me wonder whether you can actually adjust the gap between the wheel and the arch through tightening of some specific screw/nuts, what do you make out of the attached memo??

02 Raise the wheel-bearing of the rear axle (unladen weight position).pdf

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Thats not a good thing then, they are Dampers , (not Shock Absorbers technically)

 

Springs, spring,  and the Shock Absorbers control the effect, or damp the effect of the boing.

Smooth out the ride not just spring back up almost immediately.

Rebound in control.  Why you tune springs and dampers to the weight of a vehicle.

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Had the opposite problem with my classic mini back in my younger days, that ran koni sport dampers and they were so easy to compress but near on impossible to extend, the resulting effect was the car sucked its self to the floor after a few hundred miles.

Wow! I had nearly forgot how tall it stood as standard! :o

But anyway, the springs I know need settling in, the dampers though? I think there was a small (10mm) difference between front and rear before but now it must be around 20, it's that obvious....

Which after having a look at the workshop manuals made me wonder whether you can actually adjust the gap between the wheel and the arch through tightening of some specific screw/nuts, what do you make out of the attached memo??

My interpretation of the attachment is explaining how to mount the rear beam ensuring there is no pretension in the mounting/pivot bushes. i.e. Drive it over a pit, undo the rear beam mounting bolts a few turns (bush inner/outer goes ping, neutral) do bolts back up, job done, if still sits high its the nature of the dampers and should settle a bit with miles. *Edit* hopefully! Edited by wrightcnc2009
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