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Here's the shopping list if you want to order anything in the meantime.  Over the weekend I will do a separate new DIY guide over in the technical section.

 

1. Mobius with wide angle "B" lens ($72.99 - choose UK warehouse option) http://www.banggood.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-HD-Mini-Sports-Camera-Wide-Angle-Edition-p-917817.html

2. Mobius super capacitor ($5.99 - choose CN warehouse option) http://www.banggood.com/Super-Capacitor-For-The-Mobius-Action-Sport-Camera-p-918122.html

3. Mobius helmet mount ($3.89 - choose CN warehouse option): http://www.banggood.com/Bicycle-Helmet-Mount-Holder-Bracket-For-Mobius-ActionCam-Sports-Camera-p-934999.html

4. D ring QR tripod screw (£2.50): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291158637189?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

5. Right-angle mini USB adaptor (£1.09): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181021808431?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

6. USB cable (3m) ($4.90): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151072001797?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

7. Hardwire double USB box ($5.99): http://www.banggood.com/Double-USB-Car-Converter-Module-12V-To-5V-3A-15W-Power-Adapter-p-932318.html

8. Piggy-back fuse holder (£3.20): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400757936254?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

9. Kingston class 4 32Gb micro SDHC (£10.50): http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00D9OQ1JS/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

10. Electricians crimping kit (£5.50): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140829407191?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

You will also need a 5A standard size fuse blade, and a trim removal/pry tool.

 

For UK imports, remember to keep your costs (incl. postage) below £15 so that you do not incur import duty/VAT.  That's why I suggest buying the camera itself from BG's UK warehouse.

 

Bang Good are an approved reseller of mobius equipment, and the ebay seller eletoponline365 is a direct seller of mobius equipment.  So you can buy with confidence.

 

The Kingston class 4 microSDHC is reputedly the most stable memory card in the mobius, and people have problems running higher speed cards.  I noticed that amazon is now out of stock, so mymemory is another official source, although slightly more expensive (but use code "KINGSTON10" to get 10% off).

Edited by JakeBlade
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Last piece of the jigsaw came today:

21fa788d7d2fc593ce139306ad76a806.jpg

Vs

315a8f0671a5c3f039c65133e7bb6aaf.jpg

And...

78f33615b2614303a344f2143005a045.jpg

Vs

431a8cf2720bd1e48ad4ce813466cff9.jpg

The D-lock quick release screw is also able to get a tighter grip on the mobius thread, than the thumb screw.

It also now allows me to get the camera angle I want, and gets the lens nice and close to the windscreen.

So I went ahead and mounted it...

6dba9f9d362c76a8337d98c49d73a943.jpg

And view from the outside...

3f88817420e4b153920384d898fe16de.jpg

It's here...

1ddf9cca01a362fa2e2d74017ae9162c.jpg

Edited by JakeBlade
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And some pics of what's happening in the fuse box:

Piggy-back fuse:

ca1bf516231279f7a4e5400695ba786a.jpg

Crimped to the +ve wire to the 12V/5V box:

fba37ca9deefee344f5961345008bff6.jpg

12V/5V box grounded to this nut:

6f5e64352abf003ff372b2ceb69b9749.jpg

USB1 pulled through gap to the right of the fuse box, and into driver cubby (USB2 connects to 3m USB cable):

5bc2cb39c1c7a5ebf7d007e6606da784.jpg

Let me know if you need anything else - not sure if I'll do a DIY write-up now, as it's pretty much all in these last few posts of mine. But if there's enough demand then I can do a better write-up.

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Just spoke to Admiral to see if they offer any discounts for having a dashcam and no they don't.... In fact it'll cost me more because they class it as a modification?!?!?! so would charge for a change on the policy!!!

 

 

Also just to say i have a 2m iphone charging lead so used that to see if a 2m USB lead would be long enough. I very conservatively used it along the route to be used and it seems to reach easily with a little left over.

 

 

 

 

Cheers

 

Dave.

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Just spoke to Admiral to see if they offer any discounts for having a dashcam and no they don't.... In fact it'll cost me more because they class it as a modification?!?!?! so would charge for a change on the policy!!!

 

 

Also just to say i have a 2m iphone charging lead so used that to see if a 2m USB lead would be long enough. I very conservatively used it along the route to be used and it seems to reach easily with a little left over.

 

 

 

 

Cheers

 

Dave.

 

You've got to be kidding me?!?  I've just blocked Admiral's phone number from calling me after I got a quote from them to see how much they would charge for sticking a DTUK box in.

 

Swinton offer 10% discount for dash cams, if that helps.

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lol yeah seriously. Funnily enough the reason I went with them is because they were the cheapest with the car having a DTUK box on. That never happened so I only just got round to changing the car back to standard today and asked them about dash cams while I was speaking to them.

Cheers

Dave.

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Chaps - hold off on the 12V/5V USB box for the time being. My camera has been playing up, and I think it might be because the voltage is unstable. I've swapped the super capacitor out for the battery to see if that will work, until I can explore a bit more.

But basically has only been recording the first and last 2 secs of each journey for the last 2 days.

Oh, and when I scanned the camera with the SD card in it, I found some Trojan malware. I'm not sure where exactly it came from, but just be careful and scan the mSetup software when you download it.

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Thanks for the update. I was looking at a different 12v->5v USB converter anyway. Will bear the info regarding the malware in mind also. What virus software sees the malware?

 

 

 

 

Cheers

 

Dave.

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As this is something i've not heard or seen anything about online it could just been your AV flagging up false alarms?

 

What output are you getting from the 12v->5v converter?

 

 

 

 

Cheers

 

Dave.

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Quite possibly. I need to get a machine to test the 5V output. USB Charger Doctor comes recommended.

 

At the moment I'm not discounting that it could be a firmware issue (I am on v.1.17), a problem with the right-angle connector, a problem with the super capacitor, or a problem with the 12V/5V USB box.  I'm hoping that the micro SD card isn't a fake, as I bought it from mymemory (an authorised reseller).

 

The camera recorded just fine last night in the kitchen when plugged into a 5V mains USB plug outputting rated at 750mA with the super capacitor in, and then with the battery in.

 

I will need to check the footage from today when I get home.

 

A bit of a tedious start to proceedings, but I will get there.

Edited by JakeBlade
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I have access to fluke meters at work which i did already to check which rows on the fuse board were switched live and which were perm. live. :)

 

 

I would maybe update the firmware and try another temp usb lead from the 12v-5v supply (Obviously not run in but just temporarily connected etc...) so as to rule that out. Does seem as though it's going to be the supply though. At least they should send you another one seeing as it's faulty upon arrival?

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Quick update: after switching back to battery power it is working reliably.  I tested the SD card, and it is a genuine 32Gb (took 2.5 hours to do given the lowly write/read speed of class 4).

 

Someone on another forum has suggested it's probably the firmware.  So I will update to latest (v2.10) tonight if I get the chance.

 

Shame, as I had my first bit of footage of a complete tool on a motorbike believing that he was on some sort of urban raceway, as he squeezed between me and a car coming the other way.  At least he managed to make it past a whole car before turning off at the next roundabout.  Or "she": could've been a lady of course.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Charger Doctor USB thing turned up finally, 10 days to get all the way from Devon UK, or maybe that is Devon Singapore. So I could test the voltage and current through the USB.

Turns out that my twin USB hardwire unit is putting out just 3.8-3.9V at ignition on. So I think that is what was causing the problem when using the super cap.

However, the mobius has been quite happy running with the battery installed.

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  • 1 month later...

I wasn't happy with the low voltage I was getting from the 12V/5V USB converter (which was also swinging around between 3.8-5.2V, so I bought and installed this 12V socket in its place: http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/ecp/p/car-accessories/summer-essentials/on-the-move/12v-adaptor/?550775060&0&cc5_826

Then I run a conventional 12V/USB cigar plug into it. Hey presto, a nice reliable 5V output (just under 5.1V to be more precise).

The 12V socket needs a little bit of tinker time, as the spade and u- connectors are on the wrong wires. Not a problem for me and my £5 electrician kit.

The red and black wires then connect to the piggy-back fuse and the grounding nut - as shown in my previous pic.

Next step will be to re-install the super capacitor, but I'm in no rush to do that now.

Edited by JakeBlade
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Following with great interest. Thank you for all your helpful posts so far.

 

I recently installed a phone charger using a piggy pack fuse. Using a similar 12v socket to what you are using which is velcro taped inside the fuse box. 

 

Considering just using one  of these splitters http://www.amazon.co.uk/Triple-Splitter-Charger-Adapter-Supply-Black/dp/B003YTSS4Y to run one phone charger and one power lead to a mobius. Do you think that sounds reasonable?

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Following with great interest. Thank you for all your helpful posts so far.

I recently installed a phone charger using a piggy pack fuse. Using a similar 12v socket to what you are using which is velcro taped inside the fuse box.

Considering just using one of these splitters http://www.amazon.co.uk/Triple-Splitter-Charger-Adapter-Supply-Black/dp/B003YTSS4Y to run one phone charger and one power lead to a mobius. Do you think that sounds reasonable?

Can't see why that sort of design wouldn't work.

If you're feeling brave, you could dispense with the 12V socket that you've velcro taped inside the fuse box; you would instead remove the 12V cigar plug from the triple adaptor and connect the exposed wires to the piggy-back fuse and the grounding nut. That would remove some of the links in the chain, and give you a more reliable set-up. Just make sure you get +ve and -ve the right way round once you've dismantled the 12V cigar plug.

Edited by JakeBlade
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  • 2 months later...

I've just gone for the Mobius.

 

I also went for this 12V/5V step-down which appears to be the one you had an issue with?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-to-5V-3A-Step-down-Converter-Buck-Regulator-to-2-Female-USB-Output-Car-UK-/221496863212?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item33923de9ec

 

I haven't gone for the capacitor though, I'll just be using the standard battery as I'm going for a switched-live set-up so hopefully my output voltage will be a little more stable / reliable.

 

I'm also planning to use the same fuse feed that you have shown in your pictures, hopefully this is the same in my Superb as yours!

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I've just gone for the Mobius.

I also went for this 12V/5V step-down which appears to be the one you had an issue with?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-to-5V-3A-Step-down-Converter-Buck-Regulator-to-2-Female-USB-Output-Car-UK-/221496863212?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item33923de9ec

I haven't gone for the capacitor though, I'll just be using the standard battery as I'm going for a switched-live set-up so hopefully my output voltage will be a little more stable / reliable.

I'm also planning to use the same fuse feed that you have shown in your pictures, hopefully this is the same in my Superb as yours!

Cancel the order for the step-down converter: it's rubbish. Do post #96 instead - a bit more expensive, but much more stable voltage.

I'm still using the battery rather than the super cap.

Edited by JakeBlade
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