CCM HELP PLEASE

[mk1pat]

 

I have come to a complete loss with the rear boot lock motor?
Just a quick recap, i can unlock my car with the key fob, that works fine, however, the boot wont unlock electronically, neither from the key fob or the switch on the drivers door. I can unlock with the key in the boot though.

In addition when i do this it wont lock or unlock the rest of the car, which I assume it should?! Also if the car is locked and i unlock with the key in the boot lock the alarm goes off until i press the fob to unlock the rest of the car.

There is no power to the blue wire, 0v, however when i click the boot lock on the fob the relay goes click as normal, however, there is no power from pin 18 when the middle fob button is clicked or the switch on the drivers door?

I have done all the obvious:
checked the key is in the horizontal position, doesn't make a difference.
Checked continuity to all the wires leading to the boot, all fine
checked the solenoid, all fine working and have a working spare neither work in tailgate though but when tested with 12v they work perfectly.
checked the different micro switches in tailgate including latch, handle and key barrel, all fine

Checked tailgate wiring loom, all fine

Even purchased a mint working CCM same p/n still no difference?!

HELP PLEASE WHAT AM I MISSING HERE!?!

 

[rotodiesel]

Soon after I bought my Superb, with the balance of the maker's warranty, my boot would often fail to unlock electrically - although it would always unlock mechanically with the key.

 

If you unlock it mechanically, the alarm will sound - design numpties. 

 

Not wanting to have my car butchered by the dealer's trainee, I investigated. The unlock solenoid in the boot lid was obviously receiving power as it was audible, but it was failing to release the boot. It times out and de-energises after a second or so, to prevent the toy train motor burning out.

 

The cause was the pivot for the release lever at the latch end. It had been bumped too hard and was stiff - so the toy train motor couldn't pull it without stalling. A drop of oil on the pivot fixed it - and it has worked correctly ever since. I wonder what a dealer would have done to it - apart from breaking the trim clips and losing the screws...

 

The electronics for the locks and windows is very unconvincing on these cars - flaky, marginal design.

 

rotodiesel.

Edited 29 June, 2014 by rotodiesel

[mk1pat]

Yeah min dosesnt work at all no power to the blue solenoid wire. The relay clicks when i  press the boot realese and the lights flash, however, this doesnt happen when pressing the boot release switch in the door.

 

Hvae checked the wires all seem sfine as the rest of the boot works? Could it be the boot lock microswitch the one that sits next to the key barrel?

 

cheers

[Lancelot07]

Hi guys, 

I had a problem with my boot after i bought the car, it only opened with the key. I found the problem, the plugs to the boot opener weren't connected. I connected them and since then, everything is fine. My english is not so perfect, i don't know if you have tried that, but if you didn't, maybe should give it a try. If you tried it, then sorry for the interruption

[mk1pat]

Thank you for the reply,

 

Yes i have tried all the connections, i am at a loss now! :(

[0wl]

What year is your passat and have you done a vcds scan?

What happens on pin 2 of the 23 pin connector on the ccm when you use the boot release switch on the drivers door (brown wire with green stripe)?

[mk1pat]

i will check and get back to you, will do this after work.

 

thanks for the reply

[0wl]

This may be of use to you:

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/42-volkswagen-passat-b5-discussion/282760-diy-trunk-light-micro-switch.html

I believe both the boot lid handle switch and driver's door boot release switch rely on this boot latch micro switch. I suspect it is either a break in the wiring to pin 23/2 on the ccm as mentioned above or the switch in the latch.

As I asked above, have you done a scan with VCDS? Can you also confirm your car's spec - registration year, saloon, estate trim level etc

[mk1pat]

Hi Briskodian,

 

Thanks for the reply again, I have a 2003 passat estate sport 1.9 pd tdi AVF.

 

The CCM I have is the IC0 959 799 B.

 

I checked with a multi meter pin two on the 23 pin connector i got 11.5v connecting the large brown in the same connector and the pin in question when i press the switch it went down!?

 

Oddlly enough while playing with it i got the actuator to fire when pulling the switch then it stopped again.... FINALLY PROGRESS!?, however, do you have any idea what it could be?

 

cheers again paddy

[mk1pat]

sorry 0wl... looked at the logo not your name

[jimbof]

if you got it to work when fiddling with the CCM connector - perhaps check if the pins the connector have corrosion?

[0wl]

Sorry, been in and out a bit tonight, only just got chance to reply.

I'm suspecting the micro switch assembly in the latch is faulty. If you have vcds what does a scan say?

Did you see the link I posted above?

[0wl]

Further to jimbof's corrosion comment, thinking about this a bit more (and going against what I posted earlier):

 

- The boot latch micro switch is at least partially working because the alarm goes off when you manually unlock the boot with the key whilst the rest of the car is locked - this is expected behaviour for a Passat.

- The driver's door boot release switch and the boot handle have no effect.

- Messing with the CCM / wiring triggered the boot.

 

Have a look at No.'s 42/13 and 42/6 of the following slides (wiring diagram - note that "Variant" = estate):

http://www.slideshare.net/fullscreen/vwmaster/passat-b5-3b6-convenience-wiring-diagram/13

 

FYI, the alarm wire is pin 4 on the 23pin CCM connector and pin 2 needs a completed connection to earth to trigger the boot to unlock.  For pin 2 to get a connection to earth, either the driver door remote opening switch or the boot lid handle/switch need to be pressed in addition to the boot latch microswitch being closed to complete a circuit to earth.

 

I think this narrows it down to either a break / dodgy connection in the brown wire with green stripe from pin 23/2 of the CCM or a faulty boot latch microswitch.  Looking at the wiring diagram there is a join node somewhere in the floor wiring harness marked W49 on the wiring diagram.

 

I'd do the following now:

1. follow the wire from pin 23/2 of the CCM until you find the join and check it for corrosion / loose connection - it will likely be a crimp connection (3 wires - all brown with green stripe).

2. If you rule this out then you could check the black T6 connector in the left of the boot compartment including the wiring running from it to the boot latch microswitch and the boot lid release handle.

3. Check the earth connections

4. Check the T10g connector - not sure where this is, you'll have to follow the wire (see wiring diagram).

5. If you rule all those out it will likely be the boot latch microswitch.

 

Hope the above helps.

 

0wl

[mk1pat]

Thanks you're a star!

 

So could i check continuity with a multi meter? if so where does the brown with green strip join the rear T6 block?

 

2 other things:

 

1. What is the part number for the boot latch?

 

2. If i got another CCM loom from a car that i got the mint working CCM from could i swap the looms over to eliminate any issues. My thought was to replace the loom from the T23 plug backwards thus fixing any issues with corrsion?

 

Would this work?

 

cheers again

[0wl]

You can certainly test for continuity between pin 23/2 on the ccm and pin 2 of the black 6 pin connector in the left of the luggage compartment. The problem is if the joint I mentioned is corroded the connection could be intermittent. As an example, I had a corroded joint in my can bus wiring and you could see the bus flicking between single and double wire operation in VCDS. When I cut out the existing joint and resoldered it the errors went away. (Don't mess with the canbus wiring for your issue).

When you swapped the CCM how did you check the coding? - swapping the CCM without ensuring the coding is identical can lead to all sorts of problems - just matching part numbers isn't enough. A VCDS scan would be really useful - can you post one? If you have replaced without checking the coding you may have got lucky if the donor car was identically configured but you'll be guessing.

There is a link to an online database in one of the sticky posts at the top of this forum that you can lookup the boot latch part number from.

I really wouldn't recommend trying to replace part of the loom at this point - having repaired my loom in the area of the CCM module, it would be a nightmare to pull it out and replace part of it as it runs all around the car. Also, given how common water damaged wiring is on the Passat / superb, the donor loom may also be corroded.

The joint I referred to in my last post will likely be in the bundle of wires next to the CCM. Check out the sticky post on water damage at the top of this forum.

[mk1pat]

Okay,

 

I wont be able to fixc it until friday, would this wire brown with green strip (pin 2 T23) being broken cause the solenoid not to work from the fob then ?

 

Cheers Paddy

[0wl]

This thread references the boot latch part number and seems similar to your problem:

http://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/f36/tailgate-opening-problem-2453.html

It seems because you have an estate you can't just change the micro switch like on a saloon, you have to replace the latch itself.

With regards the wiring and key fob, I think your CCM can't sense the status of the boot properly (open/closed) either because of a dodgy wiring connection or the boot latch microswitches resulting in it not providing power to the boot release solenoid. When my boot is open, the release solenoid isn't activated when pressing any of the relevant release buttons / handles.

[mk1pat]

Right Owl,

 

To start with you're an absolute legend!!!!

 

After following your advice,

I think i have cracked the majority of the problem!

 

I was going to check continuity between 23/2 and pin 2 in the black connector in the left hand side of the boot like you said, however,  i thought no, ill just try using a piece of wire from pin 23/2 ccm to pin 2 in black connector in the left hand side in the boo instead and if it works that means that that wire is broken somewhere!  and hey presto it works!!! it locks and unlocks from the fob and opens with the handle. YAY! When i use the boot release on the fob it unlocks the boot and when you shut it again it locks after a couple of secs!

 

BUT, the boot release switch still isnt working?! any ideas?

 

cheers again OWL,

 

Paddy

[0wl]

Hi,

 

You have a break in the brown wire with green stripe running from 23/2 of the CCM to black connector T6 pin 2 in the boot - most likely at the junction referenced W49 on slide no. 42/13 of the wiring diagrams due to it being corroded.  By running a wire from CCM 23/2 to T6/2 in the boot you have bypassed the wiring where the boot release switch is connected which is why the boot handle and remote work but the drivers door boot switch doesn't.

 

Follow the wire from the CCM and undo the wiring bundle to find the join in the loom and fix it by crimping / soldering and wrapping with heatshrink tubing / insulation tape etc.  I suspect the join will be in the bundle parallel to the front passenger door but I don't know for sure - you're looking for 3 brown wires with green stripe joined together.

 

Regards,

 

0wl

[mk1pat]

okay will look at it tomorrow and report back!

 

thanks again!

[mk1pat]

Okay,

 

So i have checked and found the broken wire and replaced it, it wasn't corroded at the joint, checked continuity before and after..... no continuity, hmmm so the 25 cm length of wire from the ccm to the joint... could see an obvious break... looked again it had snapped inside the wire itself! now replace and completely replaced...  

 

So since this i have replaced the pollen filter seal with genuine VW seal stuff like a putty on a roll stuff... FOR FREE FROM VW

 

and removed plenum plugs..

 

so should all be sorted, put the car pack together, boot lock works as does fob... still no drivers door switch though?

 

cheers though owl your a legend!

[0wl]

Hi,

 

Glad you've got it mostly working.

 

To narrow down the driver's door switch issue you can do the following:

 

Take the switch out and see what happens if you bridge for a second the brown wire with green stripe (pin 1 in the back of the switch) to the brown wire (pin 2 in the back of the switch) - If this triggers your boot then the issue is either corroded dirty connecters on the switch plug or a broken switch.

 

If the above doesn't work, check for continuity between the brown wire with green stripe (pin 1 on the back of the switch) and either CCM pin 23/2 or black connector pin T6/2 in the boot (all brown wires with green stripe) or the W49 joint - you only need check one of these options (Note: I'm assuming at this point you are confident that all three brown wires with green stripe have a good connection at the W49 joint).  If no continuity you can either hunt down the break in the cable from the W49 joint or just run another cable between CCM 23/2 (or the W49 joint) and pin 1 on the back of the switch.

 

0wl

[westfieldmatt]

Sorry to gate crash this old topic!

 

I have similar problems on a Passat Saloon 2005.  I have a couple of questions related, to the orginal post which hopefully will resolve my problems.

 

The boot release will only work from the key either manually in the lock or on the thrid button, the boot release button in the lid nor the swicth in the drivers door work.

 

There was quite a bit of corrosion in the loom in the floor following the standard water leak, and everything else works fine since I spliced and resoldered all of the corroded cables.  Using VCDS I do not get an output from the boot, switch or drivers door switch.  I have found joint between the two cables refered to in previous messages and reterminated although this was fine.  Continuity measures fine and I can even see a completed circuit through to earth when activating either switch.

 

However, on pin 2 of the CCM there is no voltage, I presume there should be 12v output, as from what I can make out the switches complete the circuit to earth.

 

Please could someone confirm that pin 2 should measure 12 volts? If this is the case and mine only reads .309 volts, has anyone got any suggestions as to where next to look.

 

Cheers Matt

 

[0wl]

What happens when you take a wire and connect pin 2 of the 23 pin connector (note there is also a 24 pin connector) directly to an earth point? Does the boot open?

This pin out table may help you: https://sites.google.com/site/1810martin/b5-ccm-wiring

[westfieldmatt]

Nothing at all unfortunately. Im guessing it might be a duff ccm?