Fault 17560 and 17549 - too Lean

[Brit24]

Had these 2 faults come up and the mechanic found a lose pipe on the inlet manifold. Reset the code and all was fine for 30 miles or so.

power was up by 20% at least. Much smoother gear changes etc.

 

Warning light came on again today and instantly felt sluggish again.

Not sure which pipe he refit.

Have to take it down again for him to look.

 

Anyone had the same code faults?

 

17560 - Long term fuel trim additive air; bank 1; range 2

     P1152 - 35 - 10 - System too lean - intermittent

 

17549 - Load calculation cross check

   P1141 - 35 - 10 - Implausible Value - Intermittent

 

Readiness 0000 1000

 

2.0l 2V AGW

 

 

 

[rwbaldwin]

17560 & 17549 or 17574 & 17549 are usually caused by a bad MAF or the vacuum lines.

[Brit24]

17560 & 17549 or 17574 & 17549 are usually caused by a bad MAF or the vacuum lines.

Hi rwbaldwin,

 

Would you be able to share a picture or link to show where the vacuum lines are on this engine? Maybe this is one of the lines he refitted last week that he found lose.

 

Do they have a way of testing the MAF or do they just change it? (also do you know the part number of the MAF for this AGW engine?)

 

Thanks

Edited 19 July, 2014 by Brit24

[Brit24]

Been looking at MAF's on ebay and have seen various models. 1U2, 1U5 etc. to see how much they are.

Does anyone know of a good source for the correct MAF on my model?

 

(Maybe even worth trying to clean it before looking into replacing it?  http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/fuel-oil-additives/wynns-diesel-egr-valve-cleaner-150ml))

Edited 19 July, 2014 by Brit24

[Brit24]

What is the difference between these 2 MAF's?

 

BOSCH - Ref: 0 986 280 205

 

Air Mass Sensor

BOSCH - Ref: 0 280 218 002

 

I see on mine it says 0280 218 060 which is a little strange as the REG look up says this one is not compatible with my model (only the two listed above for 1U2). Maybe someone has changed it at one point.

 

Mister Auto brings these 2 up for my REG number.

Will either be ok for my engine? Why a 35 pounds difference?

 

thanks

Edited 21 July, 2014 by Brit24

[Brit24]

Guys,

 

any advice on what MAF to buy?

 

The skoda mechanic reset the code again this morning in front of me. Only 17560 appeared this time.

Told me to listen for any whistling noise from the air pump when it starts when dead cold. Could be a small leak from that. the ones with rivets are most likely to leak but this one was a sealed one.

If not we'll try changing the MAF he said.

 

We couldn't find any other air leaks. Was with him checking all the lines.

 

Cheers

[mannyo]

if your car is 2002 running with original vacuum lines, I would put money on a faulty vacuum line. The rubber perishes over time and eventually they split or crack with micro fractures.

[Sissipaska]

Guys,

 

any advice on what MAF to buy?

 

The skoda mechanic reset the code again this morning in front of me. Only 17560 appeared this time.

Told me to listen for any whistling noise from the air pump when it starts when dead cold. Could be a small leak from that. the ones with rivets are most likely to leak but this one was a sealed one.

If not we'll try changing the MAF he said.

 

We couldn't find any other air leaks. Was with him checking all the lines.

 

Cheers

 

What is your exact engine code? I've looked around and it looks to be AZJ but can you confirm this?

 

http://www.partscats.info/skoda/en/?i=cat_vag_models&brand=sk&number=81&set=87&ein=2002&f=252&hauptgr=1234567890&hg=1&grf=012915194&bf=12915&hgug=129&ug=29&parent_id=64621

 

There you can find 2 different ones for the AZJ engine:

 

06A906461G

06A906461GX

 

The ones on Mister auto are for the AZH engine:

 

06A906461A

06A906461AX

 

Top tip would be to check your existing MAF to see what the current part number is.

 

Otherwise I would 2nd mannyo on this one. The split(s) can be pass in the pain to find.

[Brit24]

What is your exact engine code? I've looked around and it looks to be AZJ but can you confirm this?

 

http://www.partscats.info/skoda/en/?i=cat_vag_models&brand=sk&number=81&set=87&ein=2002&f=252&hauptgr=1234567890&hg=1&grf=012915194&bf=12915&hgug=129&ug=29&parent_id=64621

 

There you can find 2 different ones for the AZJ engine:

 

06A906461G

06A906461GX

 

The ones on Mister auto are for the AZH engine:

 

06A906461A

06A906461AX

 

Top tip would be to check your existing MAF to see what the current part number is.

 

Otherwise I would 2nd mannyo on this one. The split(s) can be pass in the pain to find.

Existing MAF is 0280 218 060.

 

 

Engine is AZJ.

MAF is 06A906461G

Anyone got a diagram of the most likely vacuum tubes that perish and need changing? A job I can do myself without too much trouble?

 

Thanks

Edited 22 July, 2014 by Brit24

[Brit24]

What are your opinions on aftermarket MAFs like this one?

 

http://www.autosensors.co.uk/en/286-air-flow-meter-06a906461g-1jd906461.html

[Brit24]

Had a really good look at the vacuum lines and all appear to be in top notch condition. This car only has 60K on it. Engine bay is in great shape.

I guess I could replace them all pretty easily. There is one that attaches to a port under the manifold which is impossible to get my hand in.

 

If all lines are ok, then could be the MAF as we discussed. Fault code also says it could be the fuel pump or injectors!

I did hear some pinging again today so it is going fairly lean under acceleration in 3/4 lower revs.

 

Car still has 2 months warranty so I could get him to replace the MAF and pump. (500 quid max on warranty at any one time).

[Sissipaska]

I've read about people having problems with "no-name" MAF's. When it comes down to sensors and meters I will always go for a "big brand" like Bosch.

 

But that's just my personal opinion and your car aren't likely to go up in flames with a decent aftermarket sensor. Maybe the no-name MAF is made by Bosch, who knows? But I would take a genuine one for sure.

 

The problem with the vacuum pipes is that they're so hard to find splits/cracks on. And the fact the fault code is intermittent doesn't really help out.

 

- I would start with cleaning the MAF and see if it makes any difference.

 

- Try resetting the ECU. Disconnect the battery for a longer while (overnight would be best). Just remember to have the code for the radio if needed (if fitted with a original radio). See if the code appears again.

 

- Smoke testing the vacuum system http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/235671-vacuum-leak-test-machine/

 

Also you need to read this. Maybe your car will go like a skållat ollon again.

 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?323691-How-to-Reset-Automatic-Transmission

 

And some more bedtime reading:

 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5924972-vacuum-evap-leak-%28-%29-on-MKIV-2-0-P0171-help&p=80281973&viewfull=1

 

Hopefully you will find the culprit. Sorry for the long post.

 

 

 

 

 

[Brit24]

 

Also you need to read this. Maybe your car will go like a skållat ollon again.

 

http://forums.vwvort...ic-Transmission

Many thanks.

Does this reset procedure work for the tranny on my mk1? Are you thinking it is not changing up/down fast enough when accelerating?

 

I have cleaned the MAF(it was spotless inside though with a clean paper air filter), had the code reset yesterday and now trying it out again. It was still pinging a little today but the code hasn't appeared yet after 2 days of driving. We'll see tomorrow. I expect it will come back on again.

 

Will most likely try to use the 3 month warranty to pay for the new MAF and as many things as I can up to 500 quid as it covers. Maybe a new fuel pump also?

What is the lifetime of the fuel pumps?

 

oh yes where do I get the code for the radio from??

Edited 22 July, 2014 by Brit24

[Sissipaska]

The reset of the transmission is only a reboot process needed when the ECU have been reset. I added the fact that you can change it in to sport mode. On other cars you would have a button for this but VW thought it was a great idea to have it this way (with the pedal).

 

It should work on your transmission.

 

The code should be in your owners manual. Otherwise you can try calling Skoda with you vehicle VIN # and radio SERIAL #

 

But I read that for most people the code isn't needed when disconnecting the battery but you can't be sure.

 

Have you changed the fuel filter recently? If not that will be a good start.

 

Can't say really about the fuel pump. Some say at least 100.000 miles but that depends on what you put in the tank and if you run it dry often.

[Brit24]

The reset of the transmission is only a reboot process needed when the ECU have been reset. I added the fact that you can change it in to sport mode. On other cars you would have a button for this but VW thought it was a great idea to have it this way (with the pedal).

 

It should work on your transmission.

 

The code should be in your owners manual. Otherwise you can try calling Skoda with you vehicle VIN # and radio SERIAL #

 

But I read that for most people the code isn't needed when disconnecting the battery but you can't be sure.

 

Have you changed the fuel filter recently? If not that will be a good start.

 

Can't say really about the fuel pump. Some say at least 100.000 miles but that depends on what you put in the tank and if you run it dry often.

ok so the reset of the ECU is done by your method of disconnecting the battery overnight? (I have also heard that turning on the headlights for 10 mins or so to drain the capacitor works)

Then reset the transmission the next morning? (Iwill the sport mode work with the old mk1 Octavia?) Maybe I'll try the 20 sec reset first.

Hope I have got that clear.

 

Yes fuel filter was changed a couple of weeks ago also with the full service.

 

I was previously a carbureted petrolhead so this is new territory for me.

 

In regards to the radio I have the radio manual and service manual but cannot find any code.

Edited 22 July, 2014 by Brit24

[Brit24]

Warning light back on after the 3rd day of driving! Booked in for Friday at Mackenzies in Lichfield.

MAF next I believe.

[Brit24]

warranty doesn't cover the maf!!! Typical

 

Don't think I can afford a Bosch.

 

What about this one from motor parts world (2 year guarantee):

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-OCTAVIA-2-0-1999-TO-2007-AIR-MASS-FLOW-SENSOR-WITH-HOUSING-MA-B071-ULTRA-/181325522234?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Plat_Gen%3A1U2&hash=item2a37d7e53a

[Brit24]

The maf for the AZJ engine appears to be more expensive than the others.

Some of the look up tables bring up different models like this one:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310853409849

[Brit24]

Well I searched around a lot and found a 0280 218 060 for 23 quid with next day shipping. Also got a diagnostic tool to reset the fault code.

OK its not a 100 quid Bosch but I don't even know if its the MAF bringing up the fault yet.

 

Not taking it back to the garage for the 4th time to get charged 130 quid to change the MAF which is a 10 min job.

 

Bought many aftermarket products for my previous alfa and never had issues. Yes Bosch are very good but overpriced for sure.

Fingers crossed that its the MAF bringing up 17560 code.

[Sissipaska]

Well I searched around a lot and found a 0280 218 060 for 23 quid with next day shipping. Also got a diagnostic tool to reset the fault code.

OK its not a 100 quid Bosch but I don't even know if its the MAF bringing up the fault yet.

 

Not taking it back to the garage for the 4th time to get charged 130 quid to change the MAF which is a 10 min job.

 

Bought many aftermarket products for my previous alfa and never had issues. Yes Bosch are very good but overpriced for sure.

Fingers crossed that its the MAF bringing up 17560 code.

 

Good luck mate. These problems are really annoying. Hopefully the new MAF will solve the problem.

 

There are better things in life than spending money on a MAF

[Brit24]

Good luck mate. These problems are really annoying. Hopefully the new MAF will solve the problem.

 

There are better things in life than spending money on a MAF

Cheers!

Yep if the MAF solves the issue with a 12 month guarantee then nothing much lost.

 

If the code appears again then we need to think of the next step.

[Brit24]

If it was a faulty O2 sensor would this bring up a different code?

 

In the service records the sensor was changed about 2 months before I purchased the car.

[Sissipaska]

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1712154-Fault-code-17560

 

worth checking

[rwbaldwin]

If it was a faulty O2 sensor would this bring up a different code?

In the service records the sensor was changed about 2 months before I purchased the car.

Cheap, aftermarket O2 sensors can cause this error at the end of their short, unreliable lives.

[Brit24]

Cheap, aftermarket O2 sensors can cause this error at the end of their short, unreliable lives.

Thanks!

I guess that will be the next item to replace if its not the MAF.

 

How easy is it to change this? Can it be a DIY job? There is one before and after the CAT no? - is it most likely the one before?

 

I have fitted O2 sensors on my previous car but that was for a carbureted engine, the sensor was for an AFR meter. (and actually the first sensor was a wideband Bosch which failed after 6 months! Guess I was unlucky)

I thought they usually go rich after O2 sensors begin to fail. But I assume it can be the reverse.

Edited 25 July, 2014 by Brit24