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Changing Felicia / Favorit Front Brake Pads (plus brief description of changing disk / rotor)


R_U_AFA

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So here I go again with another technical guide, for many of you fellow briskoda forum users this will be like teaching your grandmother to suck eggs, old dogs new tricks,ect, ect, and other similar analogy's. So this guide is aimed more at the inexperienced DIY owner.

So it all stated when I decided to check my front brakes for seized calipers, because I was returning low fuel economy, which turned out to be due to a seized rear wheel brake cylinder (guide to follow later)

I decided to document the procedure and post it here, and even though I didn't change the pads the same principal applies.

The car I worked on was a Felicia 1.3 mpi, but all felicia's, and favorit's no matter the variant, age, or engine size (unless modified) use the same Lucas-Girling front brake caliper, (correct me if i'm wrong there)

Before you start take precautions to avoid inhaling brake dust, I also reccomend wearing some non-permable gloves.

So let's get started:

 

1. Jack up the vehicle on the desired front side (or both sides) and safely, and securely support the car. Then remove the road wheel, at this point we can check the brake pad lining thickness through the slot in the caliper, minimum 2mm. (Sorry for poor picture quality, the reason I have included the rubbishly edited picture after. Red arrows showing brake pad lining, brown being brake disk, and black marks, the pad metal backing)

 

DSC00004_zps1a67b57c.jpg

 

DSC00005_zps94128090.jpg

 

 

2. So if the pads need replacing, or like me you need to clean the caliper up. Pull the caliper outwards if possable to get a little free play inbetween the caliper and pads. Then disconnect any pad wear sensor wiring (This won't apply to many) 

The lower guide pin bolt then needs to be removed. This is done by holding the guide pin against rotation, whilst undoing the guide pin bolt like so... (you can see a socket on the guide pin bolt above)

 

DSC00001_zpsa421627b.jpg

13mm socket, 9/16" spanner, I think, can't remember now so don't hold me to it.

 

 

3. Piviot the caliper up away from the pads, and tie to the suspension spring.

 

DSC00360_zps35945858.jpg

 

 

4. Remove the old pads, (generally a tap with a soft mallet aids removal). Then clean the pad resting locations in the caliper mounting bracket, a very fine file or sand may be needed, to remove the rust. (Cleaned in the photo after the next one)

 

DSC00363_zps45cab094.jpg

 

(At this point if the disk is to be changed the caliper mount has to be removed 2 bolts on the rear, (sorry no picture, but one just about visable in picture below in circle). Then the single screw on the front of the disk,(above the roadwheel bolt in the picture above) An Impact driver may be needed to remove it. De-grease the new disk and refit and tighten the disk screw 8Nm. Then reattatch the caliper mounting bracket and bolts 60Nm)

 

316d13d7-f7dd-4a8a-9f13-b25e46e4eabc_zps

 

5. At this point it is worth checking the guide pins and gaiters for damage, and/or lack of lubricant, or contaminated lubricant. Also check the piston dust seal for security and damage,and also check for brake fluid leakage.

 

DSC00364_zps3d7b1db4.jpg

 

6. Apply Brake grease to all surfaces of the caliper, caliper carrier, and caliper piston, which the pads make contact with. With the new pads, or cleaned old pads if they were still servicable, apply brake grease to the backs, and then the sides where they contact the caliper carrier, making sure not to get any on the friction material. (Not fully greased in photo) And place pads into the caliper mounting bracket. (Pads should seat flush against the disk)

 

DSC00362_zps7b2405d1.jpg

 

7. If new pads were fitted the piston needs to be pushed squarly back into its bore, this can be done with a soft jawed vice or g-clamp with spacer, be careful of the piston seal. (sorry no picture again)

 

8. If new guide pin bolts came with the pads use thread locking compound on the threads, or clean any old locking compound from the old guide pin bolts,and apply fresh thread locking compound to the bolts. Swivel the caliper back down into place and using the method to stop rotation in stage 2, retighten the bolts to 35Nm

 

9.Press the brake pedel a few times to settle the pads and caliper. Then spin the disk and check for any tight spots/binding. Refit the wheel and lower the car to the ground.

 

10.It is recomended that brake pads are renewed in axel sets so now the other side has to be compleated using the same procedure.

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:thumbup:  Good advice.

 

My addition to the above is that I always undo the caliper bleed screw before pushing the piston back in. It gets rid of the fluid that was in the caliper [where it gets hottest and possibly boiled] and prevents possible damage to master cylinder seals by pushing fluid back up. You need to do a small amount of bleeding afterwards but I feel it's a more "complete" job.

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